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Rikon grinder at woodcraft on sale

Mark Hepburn

Artist & Chef
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
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Location
Houma, Louisiana
The Rikon slow speed grinder is on sale at woodcraft for $99. It's the one that's normally $139.

Aluminum oxide wheels. 120 and60 grit. I ordered one and with shipping $109.

Sale ends May 30
 
Yep!
Called a Woodcraft in Austin and they had ONE. I went to look at it and dang if it didn't jump into my truck.
Had been using an old Craftsman, nice but too fast.
 
Time to think about a sharpening jig/system.......😀

Freehand vs jig? It's great to freehand....takes a refined coordination, and admirable, but a jig is easier and much more convenient. This is kind of like a stick shift or an automatic......how many of us would prefer a stick shift in our everyday automobile? Granted some do prefer freehand, and some do prefer stick shifts, but they are becoming a smaller and smaller group of purists. This doesn't mean I can't freehand, and this doesn't mean I can't drive a stick shift.....it just means I've made a choice based on having experience with both......

I use the Wolverine, but I don't think it's better than some of the other systems. It does have many well designed and useful accessories, and is unquestionably well made.

ooc
 

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Time to think about a sharpening jig/system.......😀

Freehand vs jig? It's great to freehand....takes a refined coordination, and admirable, but a jig is easier and much more convenient. This is kind of like a stick shift or an automatic......how many of us would prefer a stick shift in our everyday automobile? Granted some do prefer freehand, and some do prefer stick shifts, but they are becoming a smaller and smaller group of purists. This doesn't mean I can't freehand, and this doesn't mean I can't drive a stick shift.....it just means I've made a choice based on having experience with both......

I use the Wolverine, but I don't think it's better than some of the other systems. It does have many well designed and useful accessories, and is unquestionably well made.

ooc

I loved my little sports car with 5 speed stick, but had to let her go (sciatica and arthritis). But I proved today I'm no freehander 🙂

Got the grinder Friday and by the way it's very quiet and the wheels ran true with no issues at all. The dresser is sort of a throwaway but so what. At least they included one. I already had one and dressed the wheels which was very minimal.

Have an old 3/4" skew I wanted to out a bit of an edge on. Now I have several edges, which I know I know means I don't have one. 😀

That was my foray into not using a jig and maybe my last for a looooong time. I have the wolverine and also an ellsworth jig and I'll stick with them. Call me chicken 🙂
 
Time to think about a sharpening jig/system.......😀 Freehand vs jig? It's great to freehand....takes a refined coordination, and admirable, but a jig is easier and much more convenient. This is kind of like a stick shift or an automatic......how many of us would prefer a stick shift in our everyday automobile? Granted some do prefer freehand, and some do prefer stick shifts, but they are becoming a smaller and smaller group of purists. This doesn't mean I can't freehand, and this doesn't mean I can't drive a stick shift.....it just means I've made a choice based on having experience with both...... I use the Wolverine, but I don't think it's better than some of the other systems. It does have many well designed and useful accessories, and is unquestionably well made. ooc

Odie certainly people with stick shifts are not better drivers than those with automatics.
-🙁 A stick shift might get you out of the mud when an automatic won't.
🙂 A stick shift also lets us amuse ourselves when new drives buck off the line at a stop light.

I encourage all new turners to use jigs.
I use the Ellsworth jig and the Geiger vertical solution for my bowl gouges. Everything else I sharpen jig less.
My choice is simple. I get more consistency with the jig and the time it adds is inconsequential.
Spindle gouges I learned to sharpen well with my hand on the top of my thigh holding the end if the handle and the gouge edge on the wheel.
No mechanical support but not in anyway free hand. The tool is firmly supported.
One slight advantage here is I can have either a flat bevel or a convex bevel which are un achievable with a jig.
You can get close using a secondary bevel but it is not the same as a convex.

Freehand to me is always a misnomer. The tool is always supported through a predictable repeatable path against the wheel
Tool is on a platform ( a simple jig that just fixes an angle ), the tool is in the hand which if held on some solid support like a platform, or the tool handle/hand rests on the top of the thigh.

Al
 
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The difficulty in free hand sharpening is, to quote Yogi Berra (happy birthday today Yogi), 90% mental, and 10% in your head. You use the exact same skills when free hand sharpening that you do when turning. I learned with handles on my tools, which may be a bit more difficult than with unhandled tools. I do need to get a new video up on You Tube that is much more detailed on what to do when platform sharpening.

See you in Phoenix.

robo hippy
 
The difficulty in free hand sharpening is, to quote Yogi Berra (happy birthday today Yogi), 90% mental, and 10% in your head. You use the exact same skills when free hand sharpening that you do when turning. I learned with handles on my tools, which may be a bit more difficult than with unhandled tools. I do need to get a new video up on You Tube that is much more detailed on what to do when platform sharpening.

See you in Phoenix.

robo hippy

When you post that video would you be sure to post a link? I'd really like to develop some good sharpening skills and I don't have any as yet. So I use jigs and common sense. But for example, I have that huge Alan Lacer skew and there's no way I'm going to attempt any sharpening with it on anything but my 150 rpm Jet, because I've seen what I can do with that Rikon already on a test skew.
 
When you post that video would you be sure to post a link? I'd really like to develop some good sharpening skills and I don't have any as yet. So I use jigs and common sense. But for example, I have that huge Alan Lacer skew and there's no way I'm going to attempt any sharpening with it on anything but my 150 rpm Jet, because I've seen what I can do with that Rikon already on a test skew.

As soon as you get a CBN wheel, you can lay the skew flat on the platform and put a beautiful smooth bevel on that behemoth. Most matrix wheel grinds are so out of balance that hey want to walk around and holding a tool like a skew on the platform to sharpen it won't give the most satisfactory results because there will be some flexing going on between the tool rest and the tool that you are trying to hold flat on it.
 
Thanks Bill. I have an 8" 180 grit CBN wheel but had to order a 5/8 arbor adaptor from Dave. I had it in my jet which has a 1/2" arbor. When it comes in it is going on the rikon in place if the 120 AO wheel.

So if I understand correctly, the curve if the CBN wheel is very close to the concave gring of the Lacer skew?

Back to the arbor. I have a 1/2" bushing adaptor fir a 1" D-Way wheel I don't need. If anyone needs one its free for the asking. Just PM me.

Mark
 
..... So if I understand correctly, the curve if the CBN wheel is very close to the concave gring of the Lacer skew? .......

If it isn't now, it will be. 🙄

Usually on a skew I grind at 20° on each side to give an included angle of 40°. With the Lacer tool, that would make the bevel very wide so you might consider 25° on each side.
 
Weird. I started reading a thread about a bench grinder being on sale, then the thread suddenly morphed into a discussion of free-hand sharpening vs jigs. How did that happen?
 
Weird. I started reading a thread about a bench grinder being on sale, then the thread suddenly morphed into a discussion of free-hand sharpening vs jigs. How did that happen?

It's weird how these threads morph isn't it? 😀

But, that grinder is on sale until the end of the month. I got it with shipping for $110.
 
if it isn't now, it will be. 🙄

Usually on a skew i grind at 20° on each side to give an included angle of 40°. With the lacer tool, that would make the bevel very wide so you might consider 25° on each side.

:d:d:d:d:d
 
Weird. I started reading a thread about a bench grinder being on sale, then the thread suddenly morphed into a discussion of free-hand sharpening vs jigs. How did that happen?

I'll take the blame for that. 😱

Looked like the discussion about the sale of the Rikon grinder wasn't going anywhere, so I thought Mark wouldn't mind......the comment was mainly for him, anyway. 🙂

ooc
 
Weird. I started reading a thread about a bench grinder being on sale, then the thread suddenly morphed into a discussion of free-hand sharpening vs jigs. How did that happen?

Actually, not particularly weird -- just business as usual. That is quite typical of discussions on Internet forums on just about any topic. I think that if this forum operated with a rigid set of rules on how we were allowed to address question, it would probably do more harm by quashing any sense of community and information sharing than any perceived benefit that it would create. Strict guidelines or rules could also turn the job of moderating from being merely a thankless task into a full time nightmare of trying to split hairs on whether a discussion is straying "too far". In this particular thread, the grinder and Wolverine jig can be bought as a package deal so I don't see any deviation at all (not that I care if it has evolved). Questions about the grinder are inextricably tied to sharpening jigs and what sort of grinding wheel to use, and so forth. It is all about woodturning -- no real need to get regimented about forum usage. Now, on the other hand, if you happened across some improbable thread where a bunch of old coots are reminiscing about the early days of personal computers and the beginnings of the Internet, then that's a most serious problem that needs to be nipped in the bud. 🙄
 
Actually, not particularly weird -- just business as usual. That is quite typical of discussions on Internet forums on just about any topic. I think that if this forum operated with a rigid set of rules on how we were allowed to address question, it would probably do more harm by quashing any sense of community and information sharing than any perceived benefit that it would create. Strict guidelines or rules could also turn the job of moderating from being merely a thankless task into a full time nightmare of trying to split hairs on whether a discussion is straying "too far". In this particular thread, the grinder and Wolverine jig can be bought as a package deal so I don't see any deviation at all (not that I care if it has evolved). Questions about the grinder are inextricably tied to sharpening jigs and what sort of grinding wheel to use, and so forth. It is all about woodturning -- no real need to get regimented about forum usage. Now, on the other hand, if you happened across some improbable thread where a bunch of old coots are reminiscing about the early days of personal computers and the beginnings of the Internet, then that's a most serious problem that needs to be nipped in the bud. 🙄

Yeah Bill, that sort of 'good old days of the internet', nothing to do with turning stuff simply has to stop! 😀😀
 
Getting back to the Rikon grinder... 😀

Here are a couple of photos of the grinder with a D-Way CBN wheel attached. It's a bit proud of the housing so just left it off. Also, the housing interferes a bit with my wolverine grinder platform. I may put a riser block on it or something unless someone has a better method.

I did put my Ellsworth on it with his jig and boy oh boy is that a nice edge. I hone also and think I could shave with it. Great little grinder from my limited experience and the wheel, well it's so good that anyone can tell how superior a CBN wheel is.

Sorry my photos are so lousy. iPhone.


rikon-1.jpgrikon-2.jpg

Which reminds me. I have a spare 1/2" bushing for a D-Way 1 1/2 " wheel that I don't need. I used it for literally less than half an hour and if anyone could use one, let me know by PM. It only cost $12 + shipping, so I'll just send it to whomever for the cost of postage.

Thanks,

Mark
 
Getting back to the Rikon grinder... 😀

Here are a couple of photos of the grinder with a D-Way CBN wheel attached...

But ... but ... but ... it's on the wrong side. If I were to attempt sharpening a tool on the left size of the grinder, I think that I might dislocate my shoulder. 😉

Maybe if I stood on the other side of the grinder ... then it would be on the the right.
 
But ... but ... but ... it's on the wrong side. If I were to attempt sharpening a tool on the left size of the grinder, I think that I might dislocate my shoulder. 😉

Maybe if I stood on the other side of the grinder ... then it would be on the the right.

I had it on the right side first but am more comfortable this way. And my right shoulder hurts all the time anyway!😀
 
Rikon grinder

Has anyone replaced the older Woodcraft Grinder with the Rikon Grinder that is on sale
Mine is making a few noises and I was wondering if this will bolt up to the same holes and
my Wolverine grinding system still line up.
 
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Has anyone replaced the older Woodcraft Grinder with the Rikon Grinder that is on sale
Mine is making a few noises and I was wondering if this will bolt up to the same holes and
my Wolverine grinding system still line up.

Kevin, I didn't have the Woodcraft but took some measurements and pics for you to compare. Hope it helps:

Hole spacing, front, on center: 6.125"
Hole spacing, side, on center: 4"
Distance from front hole to center line of 1" grinding wheel: 2.5"
Offset from front hole to face of wheel at leading edge: 2"

These are close but may be off by some teeny amount. Pictures show the measurements.

rikon-01.jpgrikon-02.jpgrikon-03.jpg
 

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Rikon Grinder Available Shaft Length?

Does anyone know the shaft length from step to end of threads for the Woodcraft Rikon 80-805 slow speed grinder? It's on sale again. Thinking of getting a CBN 1-1/2" wheel but current Ryobi high speed grinder shaft length is only 2-1/8" which after CBN washers would give me only .201" of thread length to put the nut on. D-way YouTube video states you need 2-1/2" shaft length from step to end of threads for proper fit......
 
Does anyone know the shaft length from step to end of threads for the Woodcraft Rikon 80-805 slow speed grinder? It's on sale again. Thinking of getting a CBN 1-1/2" wheel but current Ryobi high speed grinder shaft length is only 2-1/8" which after CBN washers would give me only .201" of thread length to put the nut on. D-way YouTube video states you need 2-1/2" shaft length from step to end of threads for proper fit......

Joseph,

I'm not sure of the length and I'm at work at the moment. But I have a 1 1/2" CBN wheel from D-Way on that same Rikon grinder and it fits just fine with no issues. Be sure of your shaft and wheel diameter though. Dave has bushing adaptors for various shaft diameters (and I've forgotten that also but recall it was listed on Woodcraft's site).

Mark
 
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Shaft size?

Mark or anyone: What is the shaft size of the Rikon grinder? I could not find any info on the Woodcraft site.

Dennis
 
Rikon Grinder Shaft Size

Dennis,

I actually contacted Rikon as to the shaft length (shoulder to end of threads) and was informed that the length is now 1-15/16". Not sure if it's been longer in the past or not. As for the diameter it is 5/8".

Hope this helps......
 
I bought one.

I bought a Rikon at Woodcraft. The factory wheels runout is more than half the dial on my dial indicator, and unattached it walks across the bench. I assume the problem is with the factory wheels... I intend to get a CBN wheel anyway...do you think the Rikon grinder will settle down with a CBN wheel?
 
I bought a Rikon at Woodcraft. The factory wheels runout is more than half the dial on my dial indicator, and unattached it walks across the bench. I assume the problem is with the factory wheels... I intend to get a CBN wheel anyway...do you think the Rikon grinder will settle down with a CBN wheel?

Take the wheels off and turn it on. If it walks, it walks (back to the store). You can also check the shaft and spindles with your dial.
 
Issues regarding the Rikon slow speed grinder

I just finished setting up my new Rikon gdrinder to work with my Oneway Wolverine jig and DWay CBN wheels. I used the Rikon to replace an old Delta grinder that was starting to give trouble. First of all, the 12-in wheel spacing of the Rikon was an inch or so less than the Delta so I had to move one of the V-arms to compensate. Second, the height of the Rikon shaft above the base was about 5/8" less than that of the Delta so I added a piece of plywood under the base of the Rikon to compensate. Finally, the shaft length (shoulder to end) is barely adequate to accommodate the CBN wheel and nut without a washer under the nut. I considered two possibilities: Use the nut without a washer, or find a very thin washer and accept that the nut will be just a bit shy of a full run-up. It turns out that the diameter of the nuts, measured apex to apex of the hex shape, is about 90/1000" larger than the bore of the CBN wheel into which the shaft adaptor resides. (In other words, if no washer were used and the nut were 90/1000" smaller in max diameter, the wheel could slip off the adaptor, over the nut and ... I doubt that the latter could actually happen, because it would take a huge axial force to shear 90/1000 of nut. Nevertheless, I chose to grind down some washers to about 1/16" thickness and use them. I ended up with the nuts about one thread pitch shy of fully made up.
 
Issues regarding the Rikon slow speed grinder

I forgot to add that I am very pleased with the performance of the Rikon system with CBN wheels. There is no discernible vibration and the grinder is nearly silent.
 
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