• Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Resawing question - bandsaw related

Joined
Mar 1, 2006
Messages
15
Likes
0
undefined

I'm fairly new to turning. It seems that the need to glueup and then resaw
wood stock is a common occurance. Most of my pieces are too small to put through a planer, so I guess a bandsaw would be a handy tool.

Wow there are a lot of bandsaws out there, priced all over the place.
What do you all think? Is a bandsaw a necessity? If so, can I get by with a 14" unit? Do you have preferences? Am I looking for horsepower, guides, or how deep a unit can it resaw? Any advice would be terrific.
 
Last edited:
If you do a search on bandsaw, you will find quite a bit of info here.

A bandsaw for resawing in the traditional sense is onlky needed if you are doing segmented work. It is however my primary method of cutting logs down to size and eventually into blanks.

If you are working with green wood, a chainsaw or bandsaw are a neccessity. For cutting up blocks, the bandsaw would be the way to go. I would say on average, a bandsaw with riser to take you up to 12" resaw is a good way to go.
 
I agree with Steve. Unless you do segmented work most turners don't glue up much stock, they start with bigger stock or turn green wood, which is about the only way to get really big stock.
Most segmented workers use the table saw or miter saw to cut up stock although some do rough out the pieces on the bandsaw and then fine tune the segments using a disc sander.
For general turning a bandsaw with a lot of rise, or how big it can cut, is the norm. The most popular versions are the 14" jet with riser block and the 14" Delta with riser block, although the 16 to 20" bandsaws are getting more common.
I tried 2 of the tiawanesse knock offs before getting my Delta(which is actually tiawan). they work OK for little stuff, 4" thick bowls and platter up to 13" wide but they really struggle on 6" thick wood.
I would recommend starting with a Jet 14. If you can afford the riser blocks go that route but if not at least you'll have a good bandsaw to get you started and then but the riser kit later.
When I first started turning green wood. I used a bow saw. That was a pain. You can buy a used gas chainsaw cheaper than the good electrics. The cheap electric chainsaws don't hold up well.
 
If you're gonna get a bandsaw for doing any precision work, think about investing a fair amount into a nice one. The inexpensive (ok, just plain cheap) saws are good for hogging through wood but poor for precision.

I've found that the standard el cheapo 14" saws hooked up with a riser block will chew through up to about 10" with patience and a sharp blade. Two things will help this. First, take a nice 2x2 piece of heavy plywood and make a table extention with it. Stability helps alot with irregular stuff that's green. Second, find a 2hp motor (there may be one on the table saw you never use once you start turning) and put it on the bandsaw. The little 3/4 or 1hp motor they come with just takes too danged long to cut the thick, wet stuff.

Have fun,
Dietrich
 
Flyturned,

If you are thinking of a 14 inch, Jet for example, with the idea of later adding a riser block to it I might be very tempted to just go out and by a bigger band saw in the first place. The difference in horsepower and rigidness is worth it. I have a 14 in jet. It is a terrific little machine. I added a riser to it, and put on carter guides. It is still a nice little unit, though underpowered if I try to handle something approaching this thickness. For the $$ I spent on the saw, and later on the guides and riser I could have had a much bigger bandsaw with more horsepower that would have been a better buy for the same $$.
 
David Somers said:
Flyturned,

If you are thinking of a 14 inch, Jet for example, with the idea of later adding a riser block to it I might be very tempted to just go out and by a bigger band saw in the first place. The difference in horsepower and rigidness is worth it. I have a 14 in jet. It is a terrific little machine. I added a riser to it, and put on carter guides. It is still a nice little unit, though underpowered if I try to handle something approaching this thickness. For the $$ I spent on the saw, and later on the guides and riser I could have had a much bigger bandsaw with more horsepower that would have been a better buy for the same $$.

This is precisely why I purchased a Jet 18". It isn't very accurate for doing quality resawing but for hogging through green wood up to 10" thick it works great. I have a little benchtop delta three-wheel and I find I return to that for accurate work. But of course it's capacity is limited.

- Scott
 
Bandsaw stuff

I started with a Jet 16" thinking it would be better than a 14" with riser. It really wasn't, especially after adding roller bearing guides, etc. It held it's own for a few years until I got a larger lathe (30" swing), and I ended up getting a Mini-Max MM20. Nothing precise about a bandsaw that size, but it does make wonderful blanks out of any kind of log with it's 4.8 hp motor! (Just have to keep the fingers clear!)

Walt
 
Bandsaw

I'm happy with my Grizzly 17" G0513X. I've cut 11" thick blanks so far with no problems. I can't speak to precision resawing as I haven't the need for it so far.

Jim
 
Back
Top