Removing wax from burl

[Ray Puffer]

I have a beautiful natural edge burl cap that has been coated all over with a heavy layer of wax. I want to retain the natural edge in my turning. What is the best way to remove the wax without damage to the burl? Thanks for your help.

 

[Bill Boehme]

If you can get a large enough container of boiling water, you can dunk it and the wax will float to the surface without any significant amount soaking into the wood assuming that that the wax is Anchorseal. I think that others have also used pressure washers.

 

[George Guadiane]

I have a beautiful natural edge burl cap that has been coated all over with a heavy layer of wax. I want to retain the natural edge in my turning. What is the best way to remove the wax without damage to the burl? Thanks for your help.

I would turn the burl to a near finished form then put it outside in the freezing weather for a few hours, then bring it inside and pick the wax off... I'm betting it will almost fall off.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I don't believe either of the methods suggested will serve. Boiling water won't emulsify what was emulsified by surfactant and mechanical action, nor will cooling do anything to already hardened wax.

Solvents like mineral spirits will dissolve it, though the process will certainly benefit from some mechanical action like a brush. Best time to attack it is prior to final dimension, before it's lost the mechanical integrity of a thick edge, but not so thick that a lot of material needs to be removed. The soft brass brushes sold in plumbing departments seem to clean and even burnish weathered edges, so I would try with them and some mineral spirits on an area tht will be turned away later.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I don't believe either of the methods suggested will serve. Boiling water won't emulsify what was emulsified by surfactant and mechanical action, nor will cooling do anything to already hardened wax.

Michael, you are right in stating that immersing it in boiling water will not emulsify the wax, however, that is not the intent. The idea is to separate the wax from the wood and the boiling water does it reasonably well. The soft wax will melt and float to the top of the boiling water sort of like the way that boiling a brisket will make the fat float to the top where it can be skimmed off.

To the OP: I suggest turning the burl first to rough dimensions before boiling it. There is a secondary benefit to boiling which is that it softens the lignin slightly and allows stresses in the wood to be relieved thus minimizing chances of cracks in the wood -- not that it is really a great problem in most burls, but just saying in case you happen to encounter some species of wood that loves to distort and crack.

 

[Calamity Jane]

What I did was quit buying Aussie burl that was waxed. It becomes too time consuming to remove the wax when I do carved bowls. I'm not sure which side of the pond the burl is being waxed on, but it sure is a pain to deal with.

 

[Ray Puffer]

Wax removal.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let you know what I try and how it works. The burl is beautiful flame red Malle. It is a heavy coating of wax, not Anchorseal. As Jane suggested I might just stop buying burls from Down Under. Ray

 

[Calamity Jane]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let you know what I try and how it works. The burl is beautiful flame red Malle. It is a heavy coating of wax, not Anchorseal. As Jane suggested I might just stop buying burls from Down Under. Ray

Don't do that, Ray! There are plenty of dealers that sell Aussie burls without the wax.......Red Mallee is way too cool!!!!!!! I can offer a few suggestions as to where you find Mallee minus the wax.

CJ

 

[Ray Puffer]

Red Mallee

Jane, I'd welcome your suggestions on sources for Red Mallee. Ray

 

[hughie]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let you know what I try and how it works. The burl is beautiful flame red Malle. It is a heavy coating of wax, not Anchorseal. As Jane suggested I might just stop buying burls from Down Under. Ray

Ray, if its heavily waxed its a sure bet its very green, so be careful with whatever you do

o the OP: I suggest turning the burl first to rough dimensions before boiling it. There is a secondary benefit to boiling which is that it softens the lignin slightly and allows stresses in the wood to be relieved thus minimizing chances of cracks in the wood -- not that it is really a great problem in most burls, but just saying in case you happen to encounter some species of wood that loves to distort and crack.

This is good advise for Aussie Burls. I tend to rough turn mine and use a light skim cut to remove the wax. Your Mallee burl is not too bad and is quite stable. But if get some green Eucalyptus then you need to be very careful as it distorts and crack very badly. Reason being most of it comes from Tasmania as it has a very wet climate. Most of your importers seem to get it from there, whereas I get mine more locally in the State I live in ie NSW, much dryer and most of the burls come fairly dry and there fore have no need for wax coating.

 

[Calamity Jane]

Jane, I'd welcome your suggestions on sources for Red Mallee. Ray

Ray....Here are 2 dealers....Bad Dogs Burl Source and Double Dog Burl. Both guys sell unwaxed Aussie burls. Bad Dog took over or bought out Skip Bellock of the Burl Source a few years ago.

Double Dog has a great stock of slabs and Red Mallee but doesn't get a chance to update his website often, but if you give him a call, and tell him what you are looking for, he will provide terrific personal service. Just ask and he'll send some excellent detailed photos.

Both of these dealers use the same Aussie suppliers, so the quality of the burls from either dealer is excellent.

http://www.burlsource.com/

http://www.doubledogburl.com/

Kinda funny that both of these guys have the "dog thing" goin' on!

 

[Ray Puffer]

Thanks, Jane. I think I have ordered from burlsource before. Ray