The pith can be a big problem if not taken care of properly, most logs are fine with a chainsaw cut that takes out the pith centre, I will use a straight edge and mark the log, so that I cut trough the pith over the whole length.
On larger logs I often cut one or two slabs out that I can use for platters or even spindle stock (Not often though, as I do turn very few spindles)
With all the cut pieces I will always check every one of them and use CA to try small problems on them from getting worse, also the pith area will get some CA on it, it does help preventing the start of splits also any knots or small defects can be dealt with at that time.
Did I say "Start off with wood that has no checks or splits in them ?" fresh cut logs are usually with very few splitting problems, however some people try to dry logs before turning them, it does not work, especially not with thicker wood, and this is where we find splits, like this one, were I had too many logs to process timely and tried to seal and wrap the logs in plastic bags so that they would not split
Lucky splits let me still use most of that Black Walnut.
Taking the pith out of an oval log does force one to cut the log trough the pith but only in the direction that gives you balanced wood, like this oval Sycamore log.
IF you would cut it to give you the largest pieces, then you will end up with two halves that will severely distort and probably will have the pieces split on you.
in length.
the thing with smaller logs of let's say 12 inches or less, I would not cut 2 inches out to remove the pith, too much wood lost IMO, and no need for it.
