• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to John Lucas for "Lost and Found" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 13, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Removing CA glue

Acetone works well until CA dries, but after that AFAIK your only options are careful application of an abrasive.
 
since it soaks in well below the surface, you will have a hard time even cutting out without seriously altering the shape. You can sand it back to the surface, but you will still have the "wet" spot of glue. May be better off "dying" the whole piece with more glue.
 
I agree with Steve. It's very hard to sand the glue stain away. By soaking the whole thing with thin CA you take away much of that stained look.
 
Any film finish will match at the second or third coat. I use shellac on my ornaments because it's fast and shiny.
 
There is a solvent sold at Woodcraft that works even on dried CA. Like the others, I have found that acetone does not work on dried CA. I have tried the solvent inside joints and on my fingers, but not on spillage on prepared surfaces. You could try it, but frankly it might be better to use MM's suggestion and build up coats to match.
 
The solvent (at least some portion of it) is Nitromethane in Stickfast's De-Bonder. You may try a hobby store that caters to gas powered RC hobbyists. They use Nitromethane in their fuel mix.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top