• January Turning Challenge: Thin-Stemmed Something! (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Scott Gordon for "Orb Ligneus" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 20, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Removing Bowl Gouge from Batty Bolster

T

Ted Mellin

Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
17
Likes
0
So I epoxied my 5/8 bowl gouge into the Stuart Batty bolster and now need to remove it to put in a new one. Was told to warm it in the oven at 300 degrees to soften the epoxy to remove. Tried this and it didn't work. So now need some more ideas on how best to do this. thanks - Ted
 
What has worked for me with Glaser gouges is to hold the handle (bolster) in a vise, with the tool shank pointing upwards. (It has been suggested to cover the sharpened end of the gouge with tape to reduce the chances for injury if the shank releases quickly.) Grab the upper portion of the tool shank with a vise-grip pliers and then apply "gentle" heat to the tool shank using a propane torch, just above where the shank enters the handle. The heat will transfer through the shank and 'down' into the glued area. As the tool shank heats you should be able to pull up on the tool and remove it from the handle/bolster as the glue softens.

Hope this helps....

Rob
 
Ted Mellin said:
So I epoxied my 5/8 bowl gouge into the Stuart Batty bolster and now need to remove it to put in a new one. Was told to warm it in the oven at 300 degrees to soften the epoxy to remove. Tried this and it didn't work. So now need some more ideas on how best to do this. thanks - Ted
Click to expand...

If memory serves correct, most epoxies start to soften at 350° f and lose just about all strength at around 500° f. Some of the strength returns as the temperature cools. You maybe did not have the epoxy warm enough at 300°.
 
I use the torch like Rob suggested on the Glaser tools.
Heat and Twist with the vice grips.

I use thick CA on the new tool. It releases with heat.
Same thing for hollowing tips thick CA holds them great.
Vice, vice grips, and a torch loosens them. The hollowing tips frequently pop out when heated.

Al
 
You are heating a fairly large piece of metal so it might take a while to reach the proper temperature. I used to install lots of inserts for Archery and they always came loose pretty easily when heated. Of course they were only about 1/4 to 3/8" thick. I have removed a fair number of tools from handles that were epoxied. It takes quite a bit longer to heat a tool that is 5/8" or so in diameter.
 
hockenbery said:
I use the torch like Rob suggested on the Glaser tools.
Heat and Twist with the vice grips.

I use thick CA on the new tool. It releases with heat.
Same thing for hollowing tips thick CA holds them great.
Vice, vice grips, and a torch loosens them. The hollowing tips frequently pop out when heated.

Al
Click to expand...

Vice grips or Vise Grips, Al? They are very very different things. 😀
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top