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red cedar

Joined
Jan 20, 2006
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tried my first bowl with red cedar, checking may have happen when using round nose scraper but it looked fine,it may have come from sanding with higher grits????? but not with hallowing tool, tore small ragged hole in bottom next to plinth, and last but not least i cracked it when i put the jaws on to clean up the bottom,

any suggestions i did not use sanding sealer and am fairly new to this torture

thanks for any help :p :eek: :eek:
 
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Joined
May 16, 2005
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Moisture is the most likely culprit. Sounds like you had a less-than-equalized piece to work with. That makes it more vulnerable to heat produced by scraping or sanding with pressure, as you encourage that bound moisture to come out fast. The checks that you started will be visible on the end grain, radial checks that were already started and encouraged to grow will run along the grain.

Scraping will always pick up fiber - nature of the beast. You can minimize the depth of torn fiber by scraping lightly with properly presented edges. Much better to practice those cuts which will cut across the fiber rather than into it. Take your pocket knife and a piece of wood. If you try to whittle by pushing the knife straight ahead you plunge, rip and raise fiber - a "catch." You can scrape with it held almost perpendicular to the surface, and it won't be too bad, so long as you don't press a lot, just as with scraping in a turning. Pressure will compress, break and tear, in addition to heating.

Now take that knife and draw it sideways as you shave, rather than just pushing it. The skewed angle and the modest sawing you do makes a smooth cut easy.

Translate that knowledge to your lathe tools, remembering that the piece is in motion already. All you have to do is choose the tool and presentation which allows you to control depth of cut - support by the bevel, and maintain a bit of skew, keeping the cutting edge as you did with the knife, where the deepest point of cut is the last point of contact - firm support of the rest.

You'll know you're there when your shavings are continuous, which makes them twist, and have a clean edge.
 
Joined
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Mouse has the tech answer for you. But the best policy is don't turn cedar. It cracks easily, dusty, soft, and turns dark with an oil finish. I found years ago it is yuk wood for me. I advise those I teach don't use. I for one despise it. GT
 
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I'm actually one of those guys who really likes to turn red cedar. True, it's dusty and takes a gentle hand, but can have amazing purples, pinks, creams, etc.

One thing I've learned with cedar is that using a scraper is a poor way to go. It is just too brittle and has too many variations in hardness. Tearout is almost guaranteed. also, when you rechuck it, you have to be careful because it's brittle and will crack easilly. Might want to find a friend at one of your local turning clubs to help you out with gouge and skew technique before hitting the cedar again. Takes a delicate hand and alot of bevel riding.

Dietrich
 
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my technique i am sure needs to improve, i could not even use bowl gauge on the inside, i had to use scraper after drilling hole for depth, the hallowing scraper worked fine, the outside i used bowl gauge ok , i did have trouble with sanding it, i may go back and try hand sanding to see if i can may it look presentable, the cedar is nice to look at, but very soft and gives one the oppertunity to :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
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