Has anyone used the Ray Key modified spindle gouges? I turn alot of boxes and purchased both the 3/8" and the 1/2" sizes but need some guidence on their use. The say that they cut better and leave a much better finish. I can't seem to figure them out.
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Ray Key Spindle gouge Help!
- Thread starter kenth
- Start date
How To's
Kenth,
I moved your post to the main forum so you might get a broader base to respond. The How To's is usually reserved for 'telling' how to. Hope you get your question answered.
Kenth,
I moved your post to the main forum so you might get a broader base to respond. The How To's is usually reserved for 'telling' how to. Hope you get your question answered.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
After you get a bunch of good answers, then we move it how to
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- Oct 13, 2004
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Ray Key Modified Gouge
They are designed to bore in like a drill to the depth you need and then the gouge is used in a pivoting fashion using the lower wing to excavate the box. The gouge is pushed away from you to achieve this and pivots on the tool rest. The bevel does not rub in this cut.
When the final depth is reached the 60-65 degree grind is used to finish the bottom of the box.
The long right wing can be used in a skew like fashion at a 45 degree angle on the outside of the box or on a bowl............taking light, finishing cuts only.
The gouge is not intended to be used like a normal finger nail ground gouge.
If you have a club close by, Ray Key has several DVD's and you can see him use it
Nick
They are designed to bore in like a drill to the depth you need and then the gouge is used in a pivoting fashion using the lower wing to excavate the box. The gouge is pushed away from you to achieve this and pivots on the tool rest. The bevel does not rub in this cut.
When the final depth is reached the 60-65 degree grind is used to finish the bottom of the box.
The long right wing can be used in a skew like fashion at a 45 degree angle on the outside of the box or on a bowl............taking light, finishing cuts only.
The gouge is not intended to be used like a normal finger nail ground gouge.
If you have a club close by, Ray Key has several DVD's and you can see him use it
Nick
Kenth,
I have both and use them for some boxes, mainly offcenter work. Most of the time I prefer the backhollowing technique as it is faster. But the Key gouges have less side load and don't put as much stress on the tenon on longer pieces. I learned to use them watching the Ray Key videos and a lot of practice.
Initially you use the gouge as a spade bit, with the flute rolled about 5-10 degrees off vertical - flute facing a little past 9:00. This sets your depth, I have marks on my gouge for the standard depths I use.
Set the rest so the tool is at center and fairly close to the wood. With the flute rolled to 45 degrees, you pivot the tool on the rest from center hole back towards 9:00. I do rub the bevel on this cut. You will be swinging the tool through an arc as you go, this is not a "pull cut". You can also do the same thing with a 3/8" shallow gouge with a fingernail grind on it, using it the same way.
To finish the inside, you use a scraper or scrapers depending on the shape of the inside. Ray uses a long side scraper with a radius on the left hand corner and the end ground back to somewhere between 80-85 degrees. I do a lot of rounded bottoms, so I use a Raffan "box" scraper most of the time. The scraper and sandpaper is where the fine finish comes from, the gouge is just for removing wood quickly.
If you are doing small boxes or bowls the 3/8" will probably be easier for you to use. The 1/2" can take too large a cut in a small box.
Fog
I have both and use them for some boxes, mainly offcenter work. Most of the time I prefer the backhollowing technique as it is faster. But the Key gouges have less side load and don't put as much stress on the tenon on longer pieces. I learned to use them watching the Ray Key videos and a lot of practice.
Initially you use the gouge as a spade bit, with the flute rolled about 5-10 degrees off vertical - flute facing a little past 9:00. This sets your depth, I have marks on my gouge for the standard depths I use.
Set the rest so the tool is at center and fairly close to the wood. With the flute rolled to 45 degrees, you pivot the tool on the rest from center hole back towards 9:00. I do rub the bevel on this cut. You will be swinging the tool through an arc as you go, this is not a "pull cut". You can also do the same thing with a 3/8" shallow gouge with a fingernail grind on it, using it the same way.
To finish the inside, you use a scraper or scrapers depending on the shape of the inside. Ray uses a long side scraper with a radius on the left hand corner and the end ground back to somewhere between 80-85 degrees. I do a lot of rounded bottoms, so I use a Raffan "box" scraper most of the time. The scraper and sandpaper is where the fine finish comes from, the gouge is just for removing wood quickly.
If you are doing small boxes or bowls the 3/8" will probably be easier for you to use. The 1/2" can take too large a cut in a small box.
Fog
Ray Key made 3 excellent box DVDs:
The Basic Box
The Finial Box
The Capsule Box
He explains the use of each tool clearly. I have purchased a number of his tools for box making but not the spindle gouge. You would do yourself a great service by getting these videos.
Ray's presentation is painfully deadpan but ignore it. That is the only negative to these videos.
The Basic Box
The Finial Box
The Capsule Box
He explains the use of each tool clearly. I have purchased a number of his tools for box making but not the spindle gouge. You would do yourself a great service by getting these videos.
Ray's presentation is painfully deadpan but ignore it. That is the only negative to these videos.