Quick on the lathe finish

[Robert Feingold]

I'm looking for a quick finish to apply on the lathe.
I use lacquer, WOP and china wood oil for some projects but I need to finish some projects more quickly. I accept that a quick finish may not be as good as others. I sometimes use wax but that dries out. I do not like hi gloss or semi gloss finishes. I prefer satin or low sheen finishes.
I guess the question of durability and food safe finishes will come up. It would be best to have suggestions for all.
All suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

 

[Tom Coghill]

Depending upon the type of wood, I have had very good results using Walnut Oil on darker woods and Tung Oil (cut %50 with mineral spirits) on lighter colored wood.

 

[nicktodd]

I have had good luck using most solivent base finishes as a burnishing finish. One to three coats that can be applied minutes appart.

 

[hockenbery]

I have been using
Dr. kirks scratch freee From craft supplies. ( the three e's are in the name)

It is an oil and wax. I have used it to finish spheres and small hollows made in spheres.
Non toxic.

Works great on any small spindle.
It is also quite inexpensive.

I have used a lot of deft lacquer in a can. Wipe it on and buff dry.
This works well for me up to about 4" diameter.
Anything larger like a bowl and I get streaking because it dries before leveling.
Works great on Christmas ornament balls and finials.

Al

 

[Bill Boehme]

I'm looking for a quick finish to apply on the lathe.
I use lacquer, WOP and china wood oil for some projects but I need to finish some projects more quickly. I accept that a quick finish may not be as good as others. I sometimes use wax but that dries out. I do not like hi gloss or semi gloss finishes. I prefer satin or low sheen finishes.
I guess the question of durability and food safe finishes will come up. It would be best to have suggestions for all.
All suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

Rob, would you tell us a bit more what you want to know about finishes? Since you have been turning for several years, I assume that you already know about all of the various types of oil and film finishes, how they look, and something about their durability. So, I am wondering if you are thinking about methods of application or other such questions. Quick can mean different things to different people. It could be quick or eay to apply or fast to cure or both.

Since you're from New York, I won't ask what's the hurry. I'll offer a few thought about finishes although I don't really have fast as one of my main objectives. You already mentioned lacquer which is about as fast and easy to apply and fast to cure of any finish there is. It is one of my favorite finishes. I use rattle cans to apply it since I never have enough stuff to justify hooking up my spray rig. Our club buys the non-retail type pre-cat lacquer, but the disadvantage is that it has a short shelf life. Shellac is also right up there with lacquer as far as fast finishes is concerned except that it isn't suitable for everything. Except for shellac, I finish everything off the lathe and I rarely use shellac.

You didn't say what kinds of things you are interested in applying the finish to with respect to durability and safe for food use. For treenware, I see those as separate goals. An oil finish is hard to beat since it is easy to periodically apply a little oil to rejuvenate the finish. Nothing will last long if it gets washed in hot water and detergent frequently. As a test, I used thin CA on a knife handle a few years ago, and it is still holding up better than any other finish that I have used. However, there is nothing fast about that type of finish except for how quickly it goes high-order once it reaches critical mass when exposed to humid air. Sanding and polishing CA is very time consuming.

 

[AlanZ]

Rob,

Sounds like you are a perfect candidate for General Finishes "WTF" Wood Turner's Finish.

It can be applied with a rag, or (as we do) via airbrush.

You can build up coats very quickly, and even use a hair dryer between coats to accelerate the drying.

Neat stuff.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I forgot to mention the thin wipe-on finishes. Many are very thin varnishes sometimes with linseed or tung oil added. One that many turners in my club like is Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Basically it is a varnish and oil mix with lots of thinner. Many years ago, I used to mix Varathane and naphtha in a 50-50 mix for flat woodworking. This mixture dried very quickly and if you wanted a slower drying finish then mineral spirits could be used in place of the naphtha. I never added oil to the mixture, but I suppose that you could. It would make the finish slightly less brittle, not that the finish was too brittle, but mainly to darken the color of the wood. The thin finishes require more coats so I don't think that there is any time saving advantage with their use. The opposite is more likely the case.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Doesn't get much easier than 2-3 coats of Krylon Matte Finish spray. Leave it as is or do a light rub with 4-0 for a soft sheen.

 

[Robert Feingold]

I too am a big fan of spray lacquer. I have spray booth and I use it often with great results.
My initial goal with this posting is trying to find a finish for small to medium size (up to 6") items-bowl, box with lid, sphere, container, hollow form, etc, while it is still spinning on the lathe. My intention is to have a finished piece ready to display or give away without the extra steps necessary with finishing off the lathe.
Bill-yes, us New Yorker's like to finish something and quickly move on to the next thing. Quite a dilemma for a hobby which often requires extreme patience. But we persevere.
Actually I like the way wax looks applied as the piece is turning (like Raffan does) but it doesn't last long-it dries out. It has a very soft feel and a nice sheen. I'm looking for something that I can apply like this with similar looking results that is more permanent.
Alan-can the WTF be applied while the lathe is running?
Rob

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have some WTF, but I don't use it because I wasn't pleased with the results. If I remember correctly, it can be applied on the lathe, but not with it running unless you can run your lathe well below 100 RPM. Basically it is wiped on and then left to dry. It is not a friction finish like shellac and wax.

 

[AlanZ]

Yes it can be applied while the lathe is running.

You can even accelerate the drying between coats, while spinning, by using a hair drier... then apply the next coat.

Take a peek at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmqGiHTS3w8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUA6XKj4nrQ

We use WTF on some of our pendants because it's water based, and does not dissolve the archival ink we often use. I can apply several coats very quickly.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The product that I had in mind has a different container than what is shown in the videos. I need to dig it out of the cabinet if it is still there to see what I was thinking about. Also, the stuff that I used was not a water based finish. Whatever it is, it started getting tacky almost immediately which made applying it a real challenge.

 

[Fred Belknap]

I use Mylan friction polish as a finish sometimes and it does a good job. I don't know about durability but for pen, pepper mill and smaller things it works fine. I got it from Craft Supply.

 

[Syd Sellers]

I'm looking for a quick finish to apply on the lathe.
I use lacquer, WOP and china wood oil for some projects but I need to finish some projects more quickly. I accept that a quick finish may not be as good as others. I sometimes use wax but that dries out. I do not like hi gloss or semi gloss finishes. I prefer satin or low sheen finishes.
I guess the question of durability and food safe finishes will come up. It would be best to have suggestions for all.
All suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob

Rob, I like two products both made under the trade name Circa 1855. One is Woodturners Jelly and the other is Antique Paste Varnish. They both produce a water and alcohol proof finish so I use them on all my goblets and bowls. The finish is very durable and last very well on things like salt & peppers sets. When it has cured, it has a low sheen. If you like an oil finish look, give it a rub with 4 "0" wool and a little wax and you are set. The best part is that they are both thinned with Mineral Spirits so apply with a foam brush while the lathe is running under 100 RPM, wait 3-4 min. then give your brush a little dip in MS and apply a light coat. This produces a a flawless finish with no brush marks or streaks. Leave the lathe running for 10 - 15 min. If your shop is cold, add a bit of heat from a lamp and you have a finish that is really hard to beat.
Have fun.

 

[Harry Robinette]

I like Deft lacquer, 3 different sheen's, easy to apply and rock hard after dry.

 

[Jeff Gilfor]

I have been obsessed with finding the "perfect" easy to apply on lathe finish. I have tried just about every concoction and commercial product available here in the US and abroad.

I still come back to my home brewed friction polish. Not trying to toot my own horn, simply want to share. It is easy, forgiving, inexpensive, and durable for daily use items.

I use 1/3 by volume hard shellac. This can only be purchased from luthiers supplies in Australia. It is a chemical additive that renders fully cured shellac as hard and solvent resistant as any modern product, including the newer two part systems.

Add 1/3 by volume pure tung oil. DO NOT USE polymerized oil. Tried that, and it was a dismal failure. I get mine from Rockler.

Add 1/3 by volume DNA (get the good stuff).

Last ingredient is a couple of tablespoons full of Meguires or Mothers "100%" carnauba paste wax (not the creme). Just take a plastic or metal (do yourself a favor and do not use the tableware), and shave enough off to fill 3 tablespoons. Drop it into the batch.

Shake, shake, shake, then let it sit for a day. It will settle, but easily be re-suspended with a quick shake before use.

Put into a dispensing bottle (like a ketchup squeezer). I make about a quart or two at a time. Lasts forever with over a year or more shelf life. Share with your friends.

Apply with good quality paper towel, folded into a tight rectangle. Lathe at about 2000 rpm. First coat applied with lathe off for full coverage, then relatively hard pressure at one end of pice until friction melts and flows the finish.then slowly move the paper towel over the piece towards the other end. Second and third coats applied with lathe still spinning, using the same area of the paper towel used in the first coat. It will have formed a hard smooth spot on the paper. Use much lighter pressure, and go back and forth across piece for desired shine.

You can apply some microcrystalline or finishing wax over that when off the lathe, then let it sit for several days before buffing if desired. It will become rock hard after a week or so, but can be used after a day or so.

Works "like" Shellawax, but is much cheaper and much more durable. You will not be unhappy.

If you prefer a matte finish, it can be applied off the lathe with paper towels, buffing by hand as it dries. Several coats imparts a beautiful dull sheen that can also be buffed after a few days.

Much deeper finish than Deft or General Woodturners Finish IMHO.