• Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Question on fumigating!

Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
103
Likes
0
Location
Camas, Washington
I remember watching a how-to by Chris Stott on dyeing and coloring wood. I recall that one technic he used was to sort of fumigate the piece by sticking it in a sealed container... but I forgot what he stuck it in there with. Was it ammonia or rubbing alcohol? Also, are there some woods that this works better for then others?? Any help would be appreciated.

Jonathon
 
Blacken

It has to do with the reaction of ammonia on the tannic acid in the wood. The greater the amount of tannic acid in the wood, the greater the effect. The result is a blackening of the surface. Another method is to soak steel wool in vinegar. This mixture when applied to the wood will also turn it black if there is tannic acid present. I have greater success with alcohol based leather dye. It gives a deeper richer color.
 
Thanks for you reply... I have tried the steel wool trick and it works nicely on walnut... I also have tried the leather dye trick; the problem I have with the leather dye is that after I dye it, when I check it later (as in a day or so later), I can still rub black off. Do you have this problem? Is the problem that I need to wait longer or do I need to seal it with some sort of sealer? Any help would be appreciated!!!

Jonathon
 
Some woods can also be fumed with muratic acid (pool cleaner). This will give you an opposite effect than amonia, brightening colors in most woods, especially exotics.

In addition to fuming with ammonia, you can brush a piece with oven cleaner or with lye crystals disolved in water. This will cause the wood to darken and "age". I do this with cherry regularly when I want a deep, brown/red color such as you get with older, well oxidized wood.

Dietrich
 
Leather dye

I have greater success with alcohol based dye than water based. Mainly because it dose not raise the grain as much. It does take two sometimes three applications. I buff off the lose residue with a shoe brush between coats. Just like I were buffing up my shoes. than buff with a soft cloth. I usualy finish dyed pieces with several coats of lacquer. I uploaded a photo of a pierced lidded box just yesterday. The lid is finished this way. Have a look. Your comments are welcomed.
 
Ok, last question. What brand of dye do you use? I don't remember any of the dyes that I have seen tell whether they are water based or alcohol based. I like the oven cleaner idea... I'll have to try that and see how it works! Thx for the help, both of you.
 
I am fortunate to have a Tandy leather store in town. Otherwise you can findt he dye I use on thier web site at the link provided. Another tip you may like to try are thier wool Daubers. I use laquer that I thin to 50/50 with thinner as a sanding sealer I keep it in a glass jar with a well fitting lid. Inside the jar I also keep a dauber. No stickey rag or paper towel. I use this meathod of application for several of my more often used finishes.
Tandy Pro Dye 4 oz Black #22055- http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=2205501&variation=&aitem=42&mitem=66

Wool Daubers 10/pk #3445-
http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.asp?number=344500&variation=&aitem=6&mitem=12

Hope this helps 🙂
 
Hey... Cool!!! Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate it!
 
Back
Top