I was watching the DYI channel program on woodturning yesterday and saw the host use what I think is pvc pipe OVER the outside of the chuck he had on the lathe. This was then used to support the re-turning of the bottom of a bowl he was compleating. He padded the pvc on the bowl end and brought the tailstock up to center the bowl. Looked like an easy and quick way to remount a bowl when cleaning up the bottom as there were no adjustments to the chuck needed. Unfortunately, he did not say what chuck or what sized pipe he used. Because I am a new turner, I have to ask what may be very basic information, but... Anyone know the combination of pipe and chuck he may have used or what kind of customizing is needed to do it? Thanks folks, Ron
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PVC pipe chucking
- Thread starter RonW
- Start date
PVC pipe
Sounds like he slipped the PVC over the jaws then tighted it in place as a backing board. That would keep him from having to remove the chuck and mount a seperate backing board with cork. Sounds like the only reasonable explanation since we know it could not have been a vacumn setup. Phil
Sounds like he slipped the PVC over the jaws then tighted it in place as a backing board. That would keep him from having to remove the chuck and mount a seperate backing board with cork. Sounds like the only reasonable explanation since we know it could not have been a vacumn setup. Phil
Pvc
3" PVC will jamb fit over a Talon Chuck with the jaws all the way closed. Push it all the way back until it bottoms out on the backplate. You may even have to tap it on with a mallet. I don't know what works with other chucks. I picked that up from Dave Hout, when he demonstrated at the local (Cleveland) Rockler store.
3" PVC will jamb fit over a Talon Chuck with the jaws all the way closed. Push it all the way back until it bottoms out on the backplate. You may even have to tap it on with a mallet. I don't know what works with other chucks. I picked that up from Dave Hout, when he demonstrated at the local (Cleveland) Rockler store.
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Drum chuck from PVC
PVC in 3" and 4 " diameters makes a good sidewall for a vaccum drum chuck.
I mount a block of wood on a faceplate and turn a short tenon and groove to accept the pvc. Drill a hole in the wood and glue the pvc in place. A tight fit is best to get it centered.
I then true up the pvc with a spindel gouge an glue on a foam pad to make the vaccum seal. I use hot melt glue for both since it think it produces an airtight seal and on the foam side it has a bit of flex too.
One caution is that PVC is rather unforgiving with a catch. Be sure to ride the bevel and then roll the cutting edge into the pvc. Also the pvc prodcuces one long thin shaving that may wind itself around things.
FOR re-Chucking bowls a small block of wood in a chuck turned to a shallow bowl shape in my opinion is a lot better than PVC. The with its thin hard rim of the pvc is more likely to leave a mark on a bowl of softer wood like walnut than a wooden block. This will happen unless you use a really thick pad which will make the rechucking is too spongy for good turning. With the wood block you can use a thin foam, leather, or paper towel pad quite successfully without danger of marking the bowl.
happy turning,
Al
PVC in 3" and 4 " diameters makes a good sidewall for a vaccum drum chuck.
I mount a block of wood on a faceplate and turn a short tenon and groove to accept the pvc. Drill a hole in the wood and glue the pvc in place. A tight fit is best to get it centered.
I then true up the pvc with a spindel gouge an glue on a foam pad to make the vaccum seal. I use hot melt glue for both since it think it produces an airtight seal and on the foam side it has a bit of flex too.
One caution is that PVC is rather unforgiving with a catch. Be sure to ride the bevel and then roll the cutting edge into the pvc. Also the pvc prodcuces one long thin shaving that may wind itself around things.
FOR re-Chucking bowls a small block of wood in a chuck turned to a shallow bowl shape in my opinion is a lot better than PVC. The with its thin hard rim of the pvc is more likely to leave a mark on a bowl of softer wood like walnut than a wooden block. This will happen unless you use a really thick pad which will make the rechucking is too spongy for good turning. With the wood block you can use a thin foam, leather, or paper towel pad quite successfully without danger of marking the bowl.
happy turning,
Al
Last edited:
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I don't even use PVC. I just put a rubber sink stopper over the jaws of the chuck and pull up the tailstock to hold the bowl in place. When I need to make it deeper I turn a fat dowel about 3" in diameter and put a short tenon on it to fit in the chuck. I round over the other end and glue rubber to it. These methods serve me so well I don't use the vacuum chuck nearly as much as I should.
Wood better than PVC for a chuck
I have made chucks out of wood glued up to about5-6 inches high. I put a faceplate on the first one and glue the other blocks to it. Hollow out the inside and turn the outside it make a thickness of 1/4 to 1/2, round the end over and glue rubber on the rounded end and drill a hole through the first block for vacuum. I find I can use one of these chucks with the tail stock in place quicker and safer than dragging all the vacuum stuff out. You have to get rid of a small nub on the bottom but this is no big deal. The other thing is it takes a faceplate for each chuck you make. I think it is worth it. I have a 4,5 and 6 inch chuck which will handle almost anything I turn.
Ron
I have made chucks out of wood glued up to about5-6 inches high. I put a faceplate on the first one and glue the other blocks to it. Hollow out the inside and turn the outside it make a thickness of 1/4 to 1/2, round the end over and glue rubber on the rounded end and drill a hole through the first block for vacuum. I find I can use one of these chucks with the tail stock in place quicker and safer than dragging all the vacuum stuff out. You have to get rid of a small nub on the bottom but this is no big deal. The other thing is it takes a faceplate for each chuck you make. I think it is worth it. I have a 4,5 and 6 inch chuck which will handle almost anything I turn.
Ron
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Iwas'nt real clear,
I remount almost all of my bowls like Ron and John
using a block of wood with a soft profile that fits inside the bowl and a pad.
I think this is a lot easier and superior to using PVC unless you live somewhere where wood is hard to get.
-Al
I remount almost all of my bowls like Ron and John
using a block of wood with a soft profile that fits inside the bowl and a pad.
I think this is a lot easier and superior to using PVC unless you live somewhere where wood is hard to get.
-Al
Wilson Reversing Chuck
Thanks to all your ideas and replies about the DIY Channel pvc chuck. One message, by John Lucas about his use of a rubber sink stopper started me on a search. Couldn't find a large rubber sink stopper. So I looked around a bit and found an ideal solution for mounting a moderately sized bowl for finishing the bottom. (I am calling it a "WILSON REVERSING CHUCK" 🙄 if no one else has come up with it before this).
You will need to purchase a 3" pvc coupler and put a flexible 3" pvc cap (black rubber) on one end. Put the open end against the talon chuck, open the jaws to hold the pvc, and mount the bowl with the tailstock. Super easy and holds very well without a lot of messing about.
Thanks to all your ideas and replies about the DIY Channel pvc chuck. One message, by John Lucas about his use of a rubber sink stopper started me on a search. Couldn't find a large rubber sink stopper. So I looked around a bit and found an ideal solution for mounting a moderately sized bowl for finishing the bottom. (I am calling it a "WILSON REVERSING CHUCK" 🙄 if no one else has come up with it before this).
You will need to purchase a 3" pvc coupler and put a flexible 3" pvc cap (black rubber) on one end. Put the open end against the talon chuck, open the jaws to hold the pvc, and mount the bowl with the tailstock. Super easy and holds very well without a lot of messing about.
Careful! that black rubber can leave big black marks......
JimQ
JimQ
What's In A Name
Ron,
What you (and others) are describing is called a "jam chuck", but there's no reason yours can't be dubbed "The Wilson Jam Chuck." 😀
I would point out however, that using a piece of PVC in the Talon in expansion mode may introduce some wobble to your piece because it will be hard to always get the working rim (and soft cap) precisely perpendicular to the ways and it may shift when applying tailstock pressure.
For a jam chuck, I prefer a "model" similar to what VicmarkRon describes. I use a 3" faceplate and glue up a 5-6" cube of plywood. Attach the faceplate, mount with the tailstock, then turn a cylinder & true up the end-rim. Now remove the TS and turn a deep "v" on the inside, and sand smooth. Lastly I use an 8" round piece of thin plumber's rubber or closed cell foam. Place the rubber over the chuck, put the workpiece against it, and use the tailstock to apply pressure. Pieces smaller than the rim will self-center on the surface of the interior cone, while plates and bowls larger than the "drum" will align straight on the trued rim and be located and held at center by the tailstock's point.
I do, however, use PVC (Schedule 40 couplings), like Hockenbery, to make my vacuum drum chucks.
Mark :cool2:
RonW said:
Ron,
What you (and others) are describing is called a "jam chuck", but there's no reason yours can't be dubbed "The Wilson Jam Chuck." 😀
I would point out however, that using a piece of PVC in the Talon in expansion mode may introduce some wobble to your piece because it will be hard to always get the working rim (and soft cap) precisely perpendicular to the ways and it may shift when applying tailstock pressure.
For a jam chuck, I prefer a "model" similar to what VicmarkRon describes. I use a 3" faceplate and glue up a 5-6" cube of plywood. Attach the faceplate, mount with the tailstock, then turn a cylinder & true up the end-rim. Now remove the TS and turn a deep "v" on the inside, and sand smooth. Lastly I use an 8" round piece of thin plumber's rubber or closed cell foam. Place the rubber over the chuck, put the workpiece against it, and use the tailstock to apply pressure. Pieces smaller than the rim will self-center on the surface of the interior cone, while plates and bowls larger than the "drum" will align straight on the trued rim and be located and held at center by the tailstock's point.
I do, however, use PVC (Schedule 40 couplings), like Hockenbery, to make my vacuum drum chucks.
Mark :cool2:
Wilson Reversing Chuck again
A couple of comments about my jam/reversing chuck....
It will not leave black marks on your bowl. It mounts flat on the face of the talon, so when you expand the jaws, there is perfect alignment. Sure beats all the messing around with some of the other techniques I have tried. Try it you will like it! :cool2:
A couple of comments about my jam/reversing chuck....
It will not leave black marks on your bowl. It mounts flat on the face of the talon, so when you expand the jaws, there is perfect alignment. Sure beats all the messing around with some of the other techniques I have tried. Try it you will like it! :cool2: