Has anyone have any experience with the PSI bowl sander? Scorby has one
also about 8-10 dollars more. Do they really work?
Byron
also about 8-10 dollars more. Do they really work?
Byron
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psi bowl sander
- Thread starter bconst
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- Kennebunkport, Maine, USA
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- www.mainebowls.com
I trtied one like it.
I bought a generic passive sander from Woodcraft and returned it within the year (bearings failed). Bought the Sorby from them, use it constantly, and love it.
Jack Savona
I bought a generic passive sander from Woodcraft and returned it within the year (bearings failed). Bought the Sorby from them, use it constantly, and love it.
Jack Savona
Iv'e got the sorby and it's OK but I don't use it much any more. Doing more power sanding lately but mostly for the first grit.
Bought the Sorby version last year and used it a lot. Just sits in a drawer now. I'll likely donate it to my guilds next fund raising auction. Power sanding is faster and more effective.
One thing I really didn't like about the Sorby was that after not that much use, the bearing would screech and vibrate if you didn't get enough oil on it. If you put enough oil to quiet it down it had a tendency to shoot black (from the metal I guess) oil onto the workpiece. This usually happened just as I was about to finish sanding (of course).
Ed
One thing I really didn't like about the Sorby was that after not that much use, the bearing would screech and vibrate if you didn't get enough oil on it. If you put enough oil to quiet it down it had a tendency to shoot black (from the metal I guess) oil onto the workpiece. This usually happened just as I was about to finish sanding (of course).
Ed
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
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Bearings. That's what you're concerned with and will have to pay for, good sealed bearings.
Or you may go it yourself and use cheap nylon bushings that are easily replaced when they start to wobble. Not as if the process requires rigidity, anyway.
I count it kind of counter-intuitive that a process which involves friction to drive should be used to sand, where heat produced by friction is what I strive to avoid. For the final grit I may do a reverse inertial to avoid swirl digs by letting the powered sander gently rotate the piece being sanded, but I understand what the consequences of my actions can be in reduced paper life.
Of course my lathe's got "questionable bearings" that rotate smooth as silk.
Or you may go it yourself and use cheap nylon bushings that are easily replaced when they start to wobble. Not as if the process requires rigidity, anyway.
I count it kind of counter-intuitive that a process which involves friction to drive should be used to sand, where heat produced by friction is what I strive to avoid. For the final grit I may do a reverse inertial to avoid swirl digs by letting the powered sander gently rotate the piece being sanded, but I understand what the consequences of my actions can be in reduced paper life.
Of course my lathe's got "questionable bearings" that rotate smooth as silk.
If you "go it yourself", you can use roller blade bearings. They are inexpensive (about a buck each at a roller blade repair place or online where you have to buy 8 or 16 of them). I have seen a nice little sander built that way and it seemed to work very well.MichaelMouse said:
I have the Sorby passive sander and love it. It does a great job. The paper stays cool, and it does not leave any of the concentric sanding marks one would see with hand sanding on the lathe under speed. I do power sand on some of the tougher woods to sand (eucalyptus), because I am impatient. You do have to spin it away from the work piece if you have just oiled it to avoid spraying oil on your piece. I've used it every weekend for a year now, and still happy with it. Keep in mind there are cheaper vecro sanding discs out there than Sorby. They do just as good a job.
Bigger fan of power sanding myself. Got a nice angle drill off of Overstock.com for about $40 that is a cheaper version of the Sioux drill. Works great for the past year and much easier on the hand and arm, in addition to being able to get down in pieces. Use a chuck with a flex shaft to go down inside vases.
I get my sandpaper from Industrial Abrasives. They sell sheets of Rhynogrip for 10-15 dollars (discount for volume and to turning clubs), which cuts cost down to under 10 cents a disc for good quality paper. Also, you don't have to cut it round. Just cut it in squares and it actually avoids the edge marks round discs can give you.
Dietrich
I get my sandpaper from Industrial Abrasives. They sell sheets of Rhynogrip for 10-15 dollars (discount for volume and to turning clubs), which cuts cost down to under 10 cents a disc for good quality paper. Also, you don't have to cut it round. Just cut it in squares and it actually avoids the edge marks round discs can give you.
Dietrich
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bearings are cheap even good ones
sealed bearings good enough for this application are cheap on ebay. I know I have posted directions on how to make sanders here before. I have a 5 or so sanders in differnt sizes and paid less than $10 for the bearings delivered. I could have used skate bearings bu finding cheap skates with the right size bearing isn't always easy.
sealed bearings good enough for this application are cheap on ebay. I know I have posted directions on how to make sanders here before. I have a 5 or so sanders in differnt sizes and paid less than $10 for the bearings delivered. I could have used skate bearings bu finding cheap skates with the right size bearing isn't always easy.