Took advantage of Amazon's sale and bought the Jet 1642, 1-1/2HP lathe. Picked it up today, got it home, set it up, turned it on. Nothing! Nothing except for tripping the GFI. My guess is that my garage wiring just isn't adequate. Is this a good assumption? Would a dedicated circuit help? I believe this lathe pulls 18 amps? Would a dedicated circuit on a 20 amp breaker and 10-3 wiring do it or should it be a 30amp breaker? Any help would be appreciated so I can start turning with the new lathe, thank you.
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Powering my lathe
- Thread starter gary7
- Start date
I found out that a GFI is definately out for high amperage machines. On my lathe I ran a seperate 30 amp breaker to mine. GFI's won't hold up under those kinds of loads. Anyway that is what my licensed electrian told me.
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I'll scratch your electrician's eyes out .............
The circuit breaker has a built-in thermal lag before it trips on overcurrent conditions so start-up surge may not be a problem, especially since VFD controllers are typically set up for soft start, BUT (that would be a big but) motors should not exceed 80 percent of the CB rating -- in this case, it is 90 percent -- too close for comfort.
On another note, it is not the motor that is causing the GFCI to trip -- it is the VFD controller. These controllers generate tremendously high voltage spikes which get coupled back to the power line and play havoc with GFCI's. Line reactors (inductive devices used to suppress these high voltage spikes) might help the situation, but I would not count on very much help from them. Large pump motors are used on GFCI controlled circuits all of the time since pumps are used in, .....duh....wet locations. You have my permission to slap your electrician all the way back to journeyman trainee.
Bill
The circuit breaker has a built-in thermal lag before it trips on overcurrent conditions so start-up surge may not be a problem, especially since VFD controllers are typically set up for soft start, BUT (that would be a big but) motors should not exceed 80 percent of the CB rating -- in this case, it is 90 percent -- too close for comfort.
On another note, it is not the motor that is causing the GFCI to trip -- it is the VFD controller. These controllers generate tremendously high voltage spikes which get coupled back to the power line and play havoc with GFCI's. Line reactors (inductive devices used to suppress these high voltage spikes) might help the situation, but I would not count on very much help from them. Large pump motors are used on GFCI controlled circuits all of the time since pumps are used in, .....duh....wet locations. You have my permission to slap your electrician all the way back to journeyman trainee.
Bill
Last edited:
Suggest you switch your machine to 220 if possible. By halving the amp-draw on a dedicated homerun line, you won't shrink the TV image every time you turn on the lathe 
Can you run a lathe that doesn't require a 220 line on a 220 line? I'm having my shop rewired and want to plan ahead for when I get a bigger lathe. I've a Jet VS mini now. Would it hurt it to run on a 220 line?
gary7 said:
Gary
I also have a Jet 1642 (220 v though). As I remember, the manual says not to run it on a GFI. Get a dedicated circuit for it and I'm fairly sure it will be OK.
Paul
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I guess let me answer it this way. Many motors can run on 110 or 220. So you may be able to rewire the motor for 220. The problem with 220 is it is a point to point connection and should not be daisy chained, like on 110. (On 110 you can have many sockets hooked up in series to the same circuit by going in one side and out the other (so to speak)).Leslie S said:
Electronics were never my strong subject. I think I will have the electrician hook up a 220 line for future reference and run on 110 for now. Thanks folks.
Leslie---
If you're rewiring your shop, you may want to consider having a dedicated 100A subpanel installed. This will allow for more machinery as well as multiple dedicated circuits. Of course, if your shop turns into a large-volume production environment, you will have to get a heavier amperage subpanel...
Also, keep in mind that GFCI breakers and outlets are required in such areas as kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoor environments. Check with your electrician and with the National Electrical Code to see if running a non-GFCI circuit in your garage is code-legal. Not having your electrical wiring up to code can do nasty things to your homeowner's insurance.
Good luck,
Henry C. Gernhardt, III
If you're rewiring your shop, you may want to consider having a dedicated 100A subpanel installed. This will allow for more machinery as well as multiple dedicated circuits. Of course, if your shop turns into a large-volume production environment, you will have to get a heavier amperage subpanel...
Also, keep in mind that GFCI breakers and outlets are required in such areas as kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoor environments. Check with your electrician and with the National Electrical Code to see if running a non-GFCI circuit in your garage is code-legal. Not having your electrical wiring up to code can do nasty things to your homeowner's insurance.
Good luck,
Henry C. Gernhardt, III
Richard Baker
RIP
Gary,
Forgot if the 1-1/2 hp. has the electronic variable speed, but if so, just plug it into a circuit WITHOUT a ground fault interrupter. The EVS controllers don't get along with gfci's. That's the simplest way to put it. Look back at Bill B.'s more technical explanation.
Forgot if the 1-1/2 hp. has the electronic variable speed, but if so, just plug it into a circuit WITHOUT a ground fault interrupter. The EVS controllers don't get along with gfci's. That's the simplest way to put it. Look back at Bill B.'s more technical explanation.
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Steve W.,
Tsk, tsk, tsk. Bad boy, bad boy. 120 VAC outlets are not connected in series, They are connected in parallel. Don't confuse daisy chaining with series or parallel. It has nothing to do with either. There is not any particular reason that you could not have more than one receptacle on a 240 VAC branch circuit except that you normally run a 240 VAC circuit for a specific purpose whereas 120 VAC receptacles are typically general purpose.
Leslie,
For the Jet mini lathe, the answer is NO. You normally don't find dual voltage motors until you get up around 1 HP. These days, motors on woodworking machines are more likely to be single voltage units because of slightly lower cost. Look at the motor's nameplate -- it will answer your question. If it can be operated on either 120 or 240, it requires opening up the terminal box on the motor and switching some jumpers or leads around.
Mark and Gary7,
The 1.5 HP version of the Jet 1642 can only run on 120 VAC. The motor operates on 230 VAC, but the inverter uses 120 VAC -- converts it to approximately 325 VDC and then it is converted to a synthesized 230 volt sine wave at the desired frequency (at low frequencies, it is less than 230 volts to prevent magnetic saturation of the iron. The only way to change this is to change the inverter or find out if there is another AC to DC board for that particular inverter that is designed for 240 VAC input.
Bill
Tsk, tsk, tsk. Bad boy, bad boy. 120 VAC outlets are not connected in series, They are connected in parallel. Don't confuse daisy chaining with series or parallel. It has nothing to do with either. There is not any particular reason that you could not have more than one receptacle on a 240 VAC branch circuit except that you normally run a 240 VAC circuit for a specific purpose whereas 120 VAC receptacles are typically general purpose.
Leslie,
For the Jet mini lathe, the answer is NO. You normally don't find dual voltage motors until you get up around 1 HP. These days, motors on woodworking machines are more likely to be single voltage units because of slightly lower cost. Look at the motor's nameplate -- it will answer your question. If it can be operated on either 120 or 240, it requires opening up the terminal box on the motor and switching some jumpers or leads around.
Mark and Gary7,
The 1.5 HP version of the Jet 1642 can only run on 120 VAC. The motor operates on 230 VAC, but the inverter uses 120 VAC -- converts it to approximately 325 VDC and then it is converted to a synthesized 230 volt sine wave at the desired frequency (at low frequencies, it is less than 230 volts to prevent magnetic saturation of the iron. The only way to change this is to change the inverter or find out if there is another AC to DC board for that particular inverter that is designed for 240 VAC input.
Bill
When I converted the old carriage shed to my shop I installed a 100A box thinking this was overkill. After buying or upgrading some tools I now have a bandsaw, air compressor, lathe, basebord heating, dust collector, air conditioner, and jointer which all run on seperate circuits of 20A 220V I have very little room left in the box now. My point is you never know and it is expensive to get an electrician to come and add another box. It is far better to over plan on useage.
Ron
Ron
Sub panel
I just installed a 100 amp sub panel in my garge shop, something I've been meaning to do for 20 years. I ran five 20 amp 110 volt circuits and two 30 amp 220v circuits. While planning the project I discovered that National Electrical Code dictates any 110 outlets in a garage must be GFCI protected, unless it is used for a dedicated device like a refrigerator or freezer etc, so all my new 110v lines first go to a GFCI outlet with additional outlets chained off the GFCI LOAD connectors.
Now my problem is I have the same Jet lathe on order with Amazon. I was planning on just plugging it into one of my brand spankin' new 20 amp GFCI protected outlets.
Does anyone run the 1 1/2 hp Jet 1642 on a 20 amp GFCI circuit? Or am I now going to have to run an additional dedicated non-GFCI 20 amp circuit just for this beast?
hcgernhardt said:
I just installed a 100 amp sub panel in my garge shop, something I've been meaning to do for 20 years. I ran five 20 amp 110 volt circuits and two 30 amp 220v circuits. While planning the project I discovered that National Electrical Code dictates any 110 outlets in a garage must be GFCI protected, unless it is used for a dedicated device like a refrigerator or freezer etc, so all my new 110v lines first go to a GFCI outlet with additional outlets chained off the GFCI LOAD connectors.
Now my problem is I have the same Jet lathe on order with Amazon. I was planning on just plugging it into one of my brand spankin' new 20 amp GFCI protected outlets.
Does anyone run the 1 1/2 hp Jet 1642 on a 20 amp GFCI circuit? Or am I now going to have to run an additional dedicated non-GFCI 20 amp circuit just for this beast?
boehme said:
Figured that might be the case, but made the suggestion anyway as an option.
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Greg,
Maybe you can legally finagle your way around the GFCI requirement for garages by declaring it to be your "studio" that you occasionally use to house your cars.
Bill
Maybe you can legally finagle your way around the GFCI requirement for garages by declaring it to be your "studio" that you occasionally use to house your cars.
Bill
Up and Running
Thanks to all who replied. After talking with a guy who does electrical, I decided to put in a 20 amp dedicated circuit. Since it is a dedicated circuit, no need for the interrupt. So, only one receptacle on that circuit and the lathe plugs into it. The lathe? It is a beauty!
Thanks to all who replied. After talking with a guy who does electrical, I decided to put in a 20 amp dedicated circuit. Since it is a dedicated circuit, no need for the interrupt. So, only one receptacle on that circuit and the lathe plugs into it. The lathe? It is a beauty!
Gary - if he is using an existing circuit that is good.
If he is going to run some new wire, why not get him to run some more wire and a beefier circuit with a subpanel?
If he is going to run some new wire, why not get him to run some more wire and a beefier circuit with a subpanel?
Mark Mandell said:
Took a confirmation look at the manual, you cannot change the voltage on the Jet between 110v and 220v. The one you buy is the one you keep. You can split up a 220v into 2-110v circuits by replacing the 220v circuit breaker with 2-110v breakers plus repulling the wire and replacing the outlets.
Paul
On may 29 1998 my body cunsumed 100 amps @660 volts on 3 phase Delta ,
needless to say my life has never been the same, I was trained to work on the 45 H.P. dust collecter that got me. Any machine manual or spec sheet
should be able to give you breaker requirements . Trying to skirt the national code your insurance company can and will try to deny your claim ( mama is a
paralegal) . G.F.C.I. breakers or recepticails only work if all bare (green) Ground wires are totaly seperate from all White / Nuteral wires this condition must exist from meter socket to ground including all panels ,sub panels, and box connections. A true 20 amp 110 volt receptacile has a T shape to the log blade slot . not all 20 amp G.F.C.I. pass through at 20 amps. Since my accident I have rewired my entire home ,passed all my inspections first try ,and am not licenced sparky knoledge is power respect is wise. I run any equpment I can on 220 volt ,designated circut .copper lugs in all panels subpanels minmum 100 amps for a shop . My 10 " contractor table saw 15amp 220 v G.F.C.I., 7 hp compressor 30 amp 220 v G.F.C.I. 16" jointer
30 amp 220v G.F.C.I. ,router table with 5 speed poter cable 3 1/4 hp 220v
10 amp G.F.C.I. and there is more . I always prefer 220v. it reduces ampres
by 1/2 and that improves my chance of living by 100% ,It AMPS that kills and
no one ever wants to get shocked but _ _ _ _ happenns.
GOOD LUCK
MATT
needless to say my life has never been the same, I was trained to work on the 45 H.P. dust collecter that got me. Any machine manual or spec sheet
should be able to give you breaker requirements . Trying to skirt the national code your insurance company can and will try to deny your claim ( mama is a
paralegal) . G.F.C.I. breakers or recepticails only work if all bare (green) Ground wires are totaly seperate from all White / Nuteral wires this condition must exist from meter socket to ground including all panels ,sub panels, and box connections. A true 20 amp 110 volt receptacile has a T shape to the log blade slot . not all 20 amp G.F.C.I. pass through at 20 amps. Since my accident I have rewired my entire home ,passed all my inspections first try ,and am not licenced sparky knoledge is power respect is wise. I run any equpment I can on 220 volt ,designated circut .copper lugs in all panels subpanels minmum 100 amps for a shop . My 10 " contractor table saw 15amp 220 v G.F.C.I., 7 hp compressor 30 amp 220 v G.F.C.I. 16" jointer
30 amp 220v G.F.C.I. ,router table with 5 speed poter cable 3 1/4 hp 220v
10 amp G.F.C.I. and there is more . I always prefer 220v. it reduces ampres
by 1/2 and that improves my chance of living by 100% ,It AMPS that kills and
no one ever wants to get shocked but _ _ _ _ happenns.
GOOD LUCK
MATT
Huh?
1st question for Matt is: what does "not licenced sparky knoledge is power respect is wise" mean? 2nd question, are you saying that by adding a second 20 amp circuit to power my lathe was the wrong way to do it? My understanding was that a dedicated circuit for my lathe (and nothing else) was acceptable. That is what the electricial guy told me. Do I need to spend money to have someone come and inspect it and tell me if it is up to code or not now? Or even if it is safe? I am not an electrician, just a want-a-be turner.
1st question for Matt is: what does "not licenced sparky knoledge is power respect is wise" mean? 2nd question, are you saying that by adding a second 20 amp circuit to power my lathe was the wrong way to do it? My understanding was that a dedicated circuit for my lathe (and nothing else) was acceptable. That is what the electricial guy told me. Do I need to spend money to have someone come and inspect it and tell me if it is up to code or not now? Or even if it is safe? I am not an electrician, just a want-a-be turner.
Gary
I am sorry for the conffussion I caused I am not a licensed Electrician ,thus the term sparky with no disrespect ment. Knowledge is power; respect is wise
is just somthing i started to say after my accident. The code is easy to obtain , and I am allways reading to gain info thus the knowledge is power.
After my injury I respect any amount of electricity which I consider being
wise.
You should be wired fine most electricians will always meet code, and it would have been up to him to call for any required inspections.
I brought up the subject of GFCI in response to other statements. as a
contractor whith liabillity issues one of my things is to exceed code when ever possible.
Once again i am sorry for the coffussion, it is part of my dissability I see on the screen what I thought and not what I typed in error
Good Luck
MATT
I am sorry for the conffussion I caused I am not a licensed Electrician ,thus the term sparky with no disrespect ment. Knowledge is power; respect is wise
is just somthing i started to say after my accident. The code is easy to obtain , and I am allways reading to gain info thus the knowledge is power.
After my injury I respect any amount of electricity which I consider being
wise.
You should be wired fine most electricians will always meet code, and it would have been up to him to call for any required inspections.
I brought up the subject of GFCI in response to other statements. as a
contractor whith liabillity issues one of my things is to exceed code when ever possible.
Once again i am sorry for the coffussion, it is part of my dissability I see on the screen what I thought and not what I typed in error
Good Luck
MATT
Just to add to the confusion
Got my "Amazon Deal" Jet 1642 today. After assembly I plugged it into one of my newly installed 20 amp GFCI protected sockets, fully expecting it to trip the GFCI when I powered it up as happened to Gary. Not the case here. Mine is running fine on the GFCI proteted circuit.
Gary, now I wonder if the GFCI circuit you initially tried to use was a true 20 amp circuit or not. Either way, you made the right move to have a dedicated 20 amp line run for your lathe.
And you're right, these machines are a beauty I especially like the Star Trek sound effect of the variable speed drive. 
Got my "Amazon Deal" Jet 1642 today. After assembly I plugged it into one of my newly installed 20 amp GFCI protected sockets, fully expecting it to trip the GFCI when I powered it up as happened to Gary. Not the case here. Mine is running fine on the GFCI proteted circuit.
Gary, now I wonder if the GFCI circuit you initially tried to use was a true 20 amp circuit or not. Either way, you made the right move to have a dedicated 20 amp line run for your lathe.
And you're right, these machines are a beauty
I especially like the Star Trek sound effect of the variable speed drive. Jet 1642 1/5 HP
I have this lathe and it will run just fine on a 115v 20amp circut as long as there is no GFI on the circut. The 1642 1/5 HP and the 2 HP machines have different motors and controlers. and they can not be changed back and forth The 1 1/2Hp runs on 115v and the 2HP runs on 220v Period.
Just my 2 cents worth,
Dave Anderson
I have this lathe and it will run just fine on a 115v 20amp circut as long as there is no GFI on the circut. The 1642 1/5 HP and the 2 HP machines have different motors and controlers. and they can not be changed back and forth The 1 1/2Hp runs on 115v and the 2HP runs on 220v Period.
Just my 2 cents worth,
Dave Anderson
Although this is an old thread, here's how I solved this: I have a Jet 1642, 120V: I had given up a few years ago; however, a few months ago tried a newer type GFCI at the suggestion of my son. Hasn’t tripped since. Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...ant-GFCI-Outlet-White-R92-GFWT2-0KW/205997283
FYI, you can’t put a 20 amp outlet on a 30 amp breaker. I would put it on a non-GFCI outlet and see if that helps.