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Power Sanding pads

Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
174
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Location
Williamsburg, VA
My frustration with sanding seems to be centered on the continuing failure of the velcroe-pad interface. THe pads fly off at the worst time, fail to work when going in reverse, etc, etc. I even went so far as to create my own pads with Industrial Velcro, to little satisfaction. Some folks seem to say that PSA pads work better but I do not see those for sale at the 2 & 3 in diameter. Is Powerloc better?? I have gone back to a gloved hand for protection and sheets of good quality paper. Any/all suggestions appreciated. Phil
 
Don't press so hard. Heat ruins everything from mandrel, to sandpaper, to the surface of the wood. If you're sanding on the lathe, try the power-lock disks. Off the lathe, keep your touch light and your surface cleaned of dust so you don't just rub it in and heat as you burnish.
 
Klingspor

Phil,
I have had problems with most of the commercially available products, but have had good luck with the Klingspor heavy duty discs. With a new mandrel, these discs never come odff for me. Also, Michael's advice is good--don't press too hard.
George
 
Heres a thought, don't power sand with the lathe moving. This activity has all the makings of disaster murphy could be proud of. If you need to power through a rough area stop the lathe and either use a very large or very small power sanding pad for that spot alone (my only power disks sizes are 3/4" and 4"). If you want to sand with a sanding disk with the lathe moving use an inertia sander. By the way here is the total cost of all 5 of my sanding disks

10 - 1/4"x1/4"x3/4" in sealed bearings from ebay $14 shipped
5 - 1/4" bolts either 4" long $0.40
3 - thick foam mouse pads from the dollar store $3
1 -12x12" sheet of hook material from the fabric store $6 (probably much cheaper online)

Scrap wood fro the handles and scrap plywood for disk pad bases

For less than $25 I have 2 power sanding pads and 3 different sizes of inertia sanders. And to avoid buying multiple sizes of disks I shop at www.industrialabrasives.com for $16 you can get a 36x39" sheet of velcro backed sandpaper in grits from 60 to 600.
 
I have seen this problem in the past and it usually has to do with one or more of problems below

1) Poor quality sandpaper
2) dirty backing
3) Melted velcro on the interface pad itself.

Powerlock will definitely solve your problem, but I think it may create more. It is fairly stiff.
 
If the pad comes off and the velcro touches the wood it is ruined. It may not be the paper but your damaged pad. It's a good idea to remember heat is the enemy when power sanding. Cut your lathe speed way down and go light on the touch.

Ron
 
sanding pads

For Sanding pads that work see :
www. truningwood.com
Steve Worcester won't shameless plug his own pads , But as a happy customer I Will
less pressure and good pads solved my problems. I also slowed down the sander and the lathe.
 
I vote with Michael and Steve -- too many people use WAY too much pressure when sanding. The sanding pad should just float on the wood surface and the only hand pressure required is just enough to move the sander around on the surface, but don't use hand pressure pushing the pad against the wood. Doing it wrong will wear out the paper in nothing flat and also ruin the H&L surface on the sander. I have heard a lot of wodworkers complain that they hate H&L because pads keeps flying off and in the several cases that I have witnessed how the person uses the sander, I wassn't surprised -- it resembled something like them trying to bench press about 500 pounds. I have a ROS that is around 10 years old and have yet to fling a piece of sandpaper. Don't try to compensate for worn-out paper by pushing harder -- sandpaper does wear out.

Bill
 
sanding techniques

Thanks to all for the ideas and suggestions. I will work on my pressure points and power off methods, as well as trying some new products! Phil
 
Sanding pads

Phil, as has been mentioned heat is BAD on all Hook & Loop, Ie Velcro pads.
I turn my lathe speed down to 100 of less also "try" to keep my angle drill at a low speed. Steve W. showed a wedge at one of the SWAT's that he places under his drill trigger, held in place with rubber bands. I have not done that "but" try to keep one finger part way under the trigger as I sand.

That said, do not give up on power sanding, it has improved my finished product 100% I power sanded the Mesquite salad bowl set below with www.vinceswoodnwonders.com BlueFlex pads. http://www.woodturner.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2280
I also use sanding pads from Stweve W www.turningwood.com
 
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