Power lock discs and when to use regular sandpaper

[odie]

At what point do you switch from powerlock discs to regular sandpaper?

I seldom use 240grit or finer discs anymore....handheld sandpaper just does a better job at this fine a grit. I usually go from 150grit discs to regular sandpaper. After using the 150grit discs, I usually go down one step and start paper sanding with 120grit paper, and progress to finer grits of sandpaper from there.

Depending on the tool finish and species, I normally start disc sanding anywhere from the occasional 60grit on up to 150g. Most of my sanding starts at the 80grit to 100grit level.

BTW: Have they discontinued the 120grit 2" discs????

....odie

 

[MichaelMouse]

I switch after the grain set with the wet rag. Means after 240/320 depending on species. I sand power on and sander supported, which diminishes some problems normally associated with power sanding, especially heat. May not apply in your circumstance.

Not sure where you get your power lock disks, but I don't recall ever seeing a 120 except in the flex edge. Interesting that you get 150/240/320 in standard, and 120/180 in flex, isn't it?

The wood I use and the way I sand makes 80 grit more trouble than it's worth. Takes longer to remove the scratches with the next grit than it would take to use only the finer. I generally won't go over 150, preferring to return to the gouge rather than make scratches I'll regret.

Staying with power locs until the 320/400 hand sand really helps maintain a fair surface when the grain is broad or the piece is spalted. After 400, when used, I only abrade the finish.

 

[Charlie Harley]

As I get better at working with a scraper I find that I can start at 220 grit with the power lock discs and finish with 320 discs. (Forgive me if the grit numbers aren't exact. I'm running from memory here.)

After that I use 400 grit manual sandpaper before finish and between finish coats. The Beall buffer puts the final glow on most of my pieces.

 

[Mark Mandell]

I use the p-locs, but actually prefer a softer disc for the higher grits on the inside of a bowl. The stiff discs have a tendency to dig and load up in on a concave surface where a thinner paper and foam-faced holder do a better job in my view. I'll take that combination up to 800 on closed-grain woods before applying finish.

 

[Mark Pruitt]

Not sure where you get your power lock disks, but I don't recall ever seeing a 120 except in the flex edge.

Packard has 'em in 120.

I'm mostly using a pneumatic ROS now, but the point at which I switch to regular sandpaper is where there are no more discs available. For the PL discs I go to 320; for pneumatic ROS I go to 600.

 

[Marc Himes]

I have used power lock discs from 80 to 320 an think they all work very well. I agree withe Michael that the 80 can cause scratces that are very hard to remove. For me the 80 does do a better job on end grain tear out that is hard to avoid in certain wood like cherry. Using it with a random orbit sander has been of some help. I make my own discs from Rhinogrip velacro paper for 180 to 320 to save on cost but I like the power lock for 80 and 150.

I recently tried the Beal buffing system on some smaller pieces using tripoli and white diamond then wiping them down with mineral spirits before applying the finish as Jack Savona suggested last week. I was really impressed with the smooth surface after buffing, I mean baby skin smooth. The pieces looked like they have a finish on them before any was applied. I don't know if this is burnishing, pollishing or the equivalent of very fine sanding, but it sure was smooth. It sound like Charley has the same impression. Is there any problem with this? So far it looks great to me.