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PM 4224 vs Oneway 2436

D

drjcbarton

Joined
May 31, 2005
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Hi Guys,

I have a real delima on my hands. I can buy any lathe I want but, am having trouble making a choice between the Powermatic 4224 and the Oneway 2436. I know that everyone seems to see the Onerways as the ultimate lathe but, I can't figure out how it is any better than the PM 4224. In fact, the PM 4224 has a longer bed, comes standard with a 3hp motor which is an option on the 2436 and costs about half the price. Please someone enlighten me.

Chris 😕
 
Chris,

What do you turn? A 42" bed is great for large long spindle work, but could really get in your way when doing bowls and hollowforms unless you buy the optional lathe saddle 😉

Mark
 
I turn a little of everything. I enjoy bowl turning but, also turn spindles for furniture projects. I have a Jet mini as well as a Ridgid spindle lathe and would like to replace the Ridgid with a lathe that can do all of it. The PM 4224 can turn bowls as large as the Oneway plus, it has greater flexibility at other tasks. I also believe that the PM headstock can be moved to the opposite end of the bed so that there is no specific limitation of size plus you are able to get full frontal access to the piece you are turning. Is there something I am missing?
 
drjcbarton said:
I also believe that the PM headstock can be moved to the opposite end of the bed so that there is no specific limitation of size plus you are able to get full frontal access to the piece you are turning. Is there something I am missing?
Click to expand...

Wrong lathe I think. Far as I know the 4224 is a fixed-head machine, as is the Oneway, and it is only the 3520A (soon to be "B") that has the sliding headstock. I do think they both have outboard turning accessories that would make bowl turning much easier if you have the room.

I'll also put in a gratuitous plug for the Stubby (I'm a 1000 owner) on which I can turn 38" spindles and 40" bowls and platters, plus decry the loss of the Poolwood Euro line.

Mark
 
Yes, I have looked at the Stubby. I know that it is a great machine but, I have to like to look at my tools to really enjoy them and I find the Stubby kind of unattractive. I have heard people defend the Stubby's looks by invoking the "form follows function" argument but, I am a real believer that if you like the appearance of your tools you will enjoy them more and use them more often.
 
drjcbarton said:
I am a real believer that if you like the appearance of your tools you will enjoy them more and use them more often.
Click to expand...

So paint it white or mustard 😀 😀 😀 😀

Enjoy your new lathe, whichever you buy!!

M
 
my stubby 1000 will be delivered tomorrow morning, and at first i did agree with you, but the newer ones are not black anymore, more like a gun metal grey, so now they look so much better.
i looked at all kinds of lathes, but for the footpint, the stubby is the way for me.
i'd go with the oneway, simply because it has an amazing following and is definetely a great lathe, i just never do any spindle work. so the 44" swing on my stubby will be just fine

sascha
 
Well, I did some more looking today. I live in Nashville and General Industrial Supply is located here and is nationally known for their bargins in the Jet/Performax and Powermatic lines. They didn't have a PM4224 onsite but, could get me one with no shipping charge for $3.9K within 2 weeks. They did have 2 PM3520a on site and I looked them over carefully. They looked every bit as well made as the Oneway I saw on display at my local Woodcraft. Downside is that it is limited to 20" over the bed but can turn outboard. In fact, the PM3520a may be another option for me because of the outboard turning capability and the moveable drive unit. Previous poster was correct, the PM4224 drive unit is fixed. I can get a PM3520a (new) delivered and set up for $2.7K and if I am willing to wait for a scratch and dent unit to arrive I can get it with the full waranty for $2K. Seeing how the girls at Oneway quoted a delivered price of the 2436 at > $6K it may be a consideration. I have never heard anyone malign the Powermatics and for the $4K difference in price I could buy a lot of turning tools and stock. One other factor weighing toward the PM is the fact it uses a #2MT for the headstock unlike the Oneway that uses a #2mt for the headstock and a #3mt for the tailstock (wich I don't fully understand). Since I already have a large collection of accessories that are #2MT I wouldn't have to be spending several hunderd bucks more getting a variety of tail pieces that are #3MT or buying a converter.

How about it out there, any of you PM fans care to weigh in?
 
Lota lathe for the money.

Have been hearing about the new 3520 "B" that's s'posed to have a "real" spindle lock and an integrated indexing wheel which I've heard several "A" owners wish they had. You might do well to check it out. Would probably effect the price of the remining "A" inventory as well 😀
 
Just remember, if you get a oneway or Stubby, you'll have to paint it mustard yellow to get it to match any powermatic. Might as well cut out the middle step.

Dietrich
 
Mark Mandell said:
Lota lathe for the money.

Have been hearing about the new 3520 "B" that's s'posed to have a "real" spindle lock and an integrated indexing wheel which I've heard several "A" owners wish they had. You might do well to check it out. Would probably effect the price of the remining "A" inventory as well 😀
Click to expand...

I'm one of them. I love my 3520a but I have several times wished out loud that the spindle lock were better and there was an indexer. The very two things I have complained about are now going to be in the B model. Think they listened? I love the sliding headstock, and typically move it to the end for bowl hollowing after the tailstock is removed. It is great to be able to stand at the end of the bed and work out of the line of fire and not have to bend over the bed.

If you buy a 3520 you MUST immediately build a ballast box to connect the 4 legs and add another 3-400 pounds of ballast, preferably something with vibration damping qualities. It turns a great lathe into a fabulous lathe. Quite amazing really, there is no comparison between the 3520 with and without a ballast box.

I've never wished for more power, and I don't desire to turn work larger than the 20" bed will allow, so it is fine for me.
 
Mike - I'm not really sure about the ballast box !!! So far my lathe only walked one time and I was hogging out the interior of a 10"w x 20"tall vase. The lathe was walking because of the vibration. It was the one time I wanted some more weight. What did you use for ballast - sand?
 
Correction

I have to get this cleared up. As I said in another post it's not mustard according to my girlfriend it's "calf sh** yellow". Now until one of you want to come over here and try and change her mind that is what color it is! 😱
 
Jeff Jilg said:
Mike - I'm not really sure about the ballast box !!! So far my lathe only walked one time and I was hogging out the interior of a 10"w x 20"tall vase. The lathe was walking because of the vibration. It was the one time I wanted some more weight. What did you use for ballast - sand?
Click to expand...

Jeff - you can trust me on this as much as you can trust that the Sun will rise tomorrow - making a ballast box will forever alter the way that lathe behaves. It will not only dampen vibration, but connecting the 4 legs together at a point closer to the ground will also make it a more stable platform. I had my 3520 move once or twice prior to building the box, but nothing I can reasonably do now makes it even wiggle.

I put 300 pounds of sand, double bagged, in my box. Some folks say thats a bad idea as sand in a motor, if it ever got out, would cause a problem. I've got to believe that the constant sawdust and small chips, etc.. that get sucked into that motor every day are more damaging than the slim possibility that some sand might escape - and sand doesn't really float around in still air much anyway if it did get out.

Lead shot would be good, and take up less space per pound, too. Even gravel would be good.

I simply built mine out of 2x4s and plywood, using the welded corners on the inside of the legs as the exterior dimensions. Not fancy, but well worth the time. I know a few other owners who would agree just as strongly.
 
When I got up this morning at 7:30, the sun did not rise!

Can you post a picture of your contraption? (Plus this is a sneaky way to get a shop photo out of you). Are the 2x4's bolted to the legs or how are they fastened?

It looks to me like there is a ledge built into the inside of each set of legs so that one can place a 2x10 down there. Seems to me that it would just get in the way of my feet and also hamper the daily shavings collection. I've kinda gotten used to having the freedom of open space under the lathe....but maybe at a price.
 
You'll get used to it!

Jeff Jilg said:
I've kinda gotten used to having the freedom of open space under the lathe....but maybe at a price.
Click to expand...

Jeff,

I put 250 lbs of sand in a sealed box under my old JET 1236; had a significantly civilizing influence on the machine, and didn't interfere (much) with my tango.

Since then I ran across a very different method for controlling vibration etc. I don't profess to understand the physics, actually just the opposite, but I passed it along to a friend who has used it and swears by (not AT) it. I'm including a link to the fellow's website and you or someone else more knowledgeable can take it from there.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/3jdw8/antivibration.htm

😀
 
Jeff Jilg said:
When I got up this morning at 7:30, the sun did not rise!

Can you post a picture of your contraption? (Plus this is a sneaky way to get a shop photo out of you). Are the 2x4's bolted to the legs or how are they fastened?

It looks to me like there is a ledge built into the inside of each set of legs so that one can place a 2x10 down there. Seems to me that it would just get in the way of my feet and also hamper the daily shavings collection. I've kinda gotten used to having the freedom of open space under the lathe....but maybe at a price.
Click to expand...
Jeff, my camera is unavailable at the moment - one of my brothers is borrowing it. I simply made a "shelf" out of 2x4's bolted and glued together to span the ledges that you reference, and then built a box on top of that to contain the ballast.

It makes cleanup a little more involved, but not much. If I had to do it over again I'd use lead shot because it would give me more space to build in some drawers. It has never been in the way of my legs or feet, even once.

Mark references a really neat idea - I'd love for one of us to actually try that out and report.
 
I should stay out of this but

I don't have either lathe and I'm not really taking sides but since the question was asked "what's the difference"

I never heard of anyone building a ballast box for the Oneway 2436.

(running for cover)

Mike
 
I like the idea that Mark posted - putting the weight above the headstock. Would keep the floor open for cleaning. With a moveable headstock on a 3520 - it's not clear how easy it would be to slide the additional weight. Maybe some sort of contraption.
 
Jeff Jilg said:
I like the idea that Mark posted - putting the weight above the headstock. Would keep the floor open for cleaning. With a moveable headstock on a 3520 - it's not clear how easy it would be to slide the additional weight. Maybe some sort of contraption.
Click to expand...

Jeff,

The guy dismounts the weight when he moves the lathe, so with only some reasonably substantial bracketing (like a banjo mount) and the ability to take the weight off when you slide the headstock, it shouldn't be much of a problem to slide your "weight pole" along the ways as you move the head, and then put the bucket back up. If I had a sliding headstock lathe I think I'd sure try it.

Let's all also identify Mr. John Williams as the creator. All I did was post a link. Think I'll try to contact him and invite him to join the discussion 😀

M
 
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I've had a 4224 for about a year now and I am extremely happy with it. With the 3hp motor it has more than enough power to handle anything you can throw at it. I've found the RPM readout is really nice to have, especially when using bowl jaws that have a 600 rpm limit on them. By far the best thing about it is the stability. At nearly 1000 pounds nothing moves this lathe at all. Not even a little. I've had uneven 80lbs chunks on there and it spins along quite happily( now I know why the remote switch has so much cable, it allows you to hide on the other side of the shop when you turn it on 🙂 As far as bending over the bed to hollow out bowls it really hasn't been a problem. I will admit that there have been a few times when I got tired so I "mounted " the beast in order to finish hollowing. Overall its a great lathe with very few short comings. Check out Osolnik Machinery on the web, that is where I got mine and they seem to have the best price around.

Good Luck,

Chris
 
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