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Pewa Patch Router

Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
729
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203
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
I'm curious what router you use to cut out for pewa patches? I have an older Craftsman trim router but it's not very easy to adjust the depth. I'm curious what others use.
 
The easiest way is to buy the patches and templates for cutting the pattern in the item to be repaired. I don't know that it would matter what a lot which router you use as long as it is a small light router that is easier to handle. You will need to make some sort of fixture to hold everything firmly locked in place while you move the router. If you are using bowtie patches you will need to chisel or file the corners of the opening. Here is an old thread on the topic. You can buy patches and templates from Big Island Studio. If you read their instructions and frequently asked questions I think that that it will get you going on the right track.
 
I made my own template for stars. Same technique using the same tools. You will need the kit of router bit and guide. Plunge router works best for this application . A trim router is easier to handle but most people do not have one. You can route the patch by not going completely thru the board and then use the bandsaw to saw the board (and patch) to the desired thickness. Practice on some scrape and be sure the board you route the pattern in is clamped down . By the way do not even try to use a small piece of lumber for the project....too hard to clamp.
 
The switch on my Craftsman trim router is awkwardly placed on the top of the tool. When I get it set up to use it's hard to turn it on. What brand of trim router do you find the most user friendly? Also, do you switch it on, then approach the work or put it on the work, then turn it on? Because it's awkward and I am too I've messed up my template a little.
 
The switch on my Craftsman trim router is awkwardly placed on the top of the tool. When I get it set up to use it's hard to turn it on. What brand of trim router do you find the most user friendly? Also, do you switch it on, then approach the work or put it on the work, then turn it on? Because it's awkward and I am too I've messed up my template a little.


Something that may help is to get an extension cord type setup that has a foot pedal. You turn your power tool switch to "ON". Position the tool until it's where you want it, then push the foot pedal.

Here's one from Rockler, but you should be able to find one for much less money.

http://www.rockler.com/router-table-foot-pedal-power-switch
 
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What Doug said. Don't have the cutter touching the work until after the router is running. Also make sure that you are moving the router so that it is against the rotation and not with the rotation. I understand what you means about Sears routers. I've been there and learned my lesson.
 
I'm curious what router you use to cut out for pewa patches? I have an older Craftsman trim router but it's not very easy to adjust the depth. I'm curious what others use.

I use a Makita trim router that has both a fixed and plunge base. The fixed base is easier to use when routing the mortise on the bowl — at least for me. I just pivot the cutter into the template’s cutout and go to work. The plunge base is almost a necessity when making the keys themselves. The Makita’s a nicely made router with quite repeatable results — at least for me.
 
I have a Ridgid but have not used it for tempalte routing since it is fixed base. Plunge will work best. Another thing you can do with a fixed to route the keys is set router in place with bit withdrawn, start router and lower bit to contact depth the lock depth and route.
 
I have a DeWalt DWP611 which is a nice small router that I bought as a Lathe accessory although I haven't used it yet. It comes with a standard base, but there is a plunge base option available. While it is very well built, I think that you would be better served with the Makita router which appears to be a bit smaller and more convenient for this task. The power switch is a tiny rocker switch that is covered by a dust boot which is nice, but that makes it rather stiff to operate. However, I have a foot switch that I use with my other routers and would also use it with this one. I don't have the plunge base so I can't comment on that.
 
I use a Dewalt trim router but don't remember the number. You do need the bushing kit and a 1/8" cutter. Since whatever inlays I use are larger than the bit I just adjust the depth I want and sit the router on the turning with it tilted. I tilt it down to engage the cutter so it's in the middle of my waste area and then start cutting. For the female part of the inlay I just start outside the area and route to the template.
 
Thanks for the information. I do have the necessary stuff from Big Island Studio but am fumbling with the router. The foot switch is a great idea. We'll see what the management thinks about a new router, the Mikita looks pretty sweet.
 
Thanks for the information. I do have the necessary stuff from Big Island Studio but am fumbling with the router. The foot switch is a great idea. We'll see what the management thinks about a new router, the Mikita looks pretty sweet.
All you need is a small laminate trim router, got my last one on Amazon for $89. Teaching how to do pewa patches is one of my demos. I do live remote demos, I have signed up with the new AAW directory so people and clubs can find me. Let me know if you have any questions about pewa. I'll be glad to help. Aloha
 
You do need the bushing kit and a 1/8" cutter.

Believe it or don’t, Harbor Freight has a very nice quality bushing base (w/cutter and alignment pin) for under $9. https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-brass-router-inlay-kit-99552.html The bit isn’t much to speak of, but the brass base and small bushing is nicely made and the same standard size as other sources’ inlay kits. I use either Onsrud or Whiteside bits in mine and it’s done some very nice mortises and patches.

If you get the Makita trimmer plunge base, you also need an adapter to downsize the opening to fit this type of brass inlay fitting. The standard base does not require an adapter.
 
I would not spend extra money in a foot switch for the router. Buy more pewa instead, lol. Put the router inside the inlay, turn it on, do the routing, TURN OFF the router, then pull it out. You will not ruin the inlay, but you will damage it if you are not careful when stoping and removing the router.
 
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