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peppermill adjustments

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Dec 12, 2006
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I have been making peppermills with the "deluxe" mechanism from CS...I think it is the same as the deluxe model offered at packard and elsewhere as well. I am having trouble with the top nut not holding adjustment once an adjustment is made. If I pull up on the top piece of wood when makingt the adjustment it seems to help but i thought I would see if anyone else has the answer.
 
Joined
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Because the rod that drives the grinding mechanism should not rotate within the top piece of the grinder, the adjustment shouldn't change once the adjustment nut is set. That is, assuming someone didn't forget to install the little plate with the square hole in it at the base of the rotating top piece. The only thing that I can think of is that, in using the grinder, hand pressure might be holding the nut while the rotating top piece turns under it. Otherwise, it should not be mechanically possible for the nut to tighten/loosen in use.
 
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I have been making peppermills with the "deluxe" mechanism from CS...I think it is the same as the deluxe model offered at packard and elsewhere as well. I am having trouble with the top nut not holding adjustment once an adjustment is made. If I pull up on the top piece of wood when makingt the adjustment it seems to help but i thought I would see if anyone else has the answer.

Hi Peter,
I have made close to 60 mills using the deluxe mechanism you described from CS. The problem you described hasn't happened with the mills I made. I agree with Nuturner that if you have a little extra play in the 1/4" hole in the top, and if you grabbed the top in such a way as to hold the nut still while you were turning the top, the nut would have a tendency to tighten itself on the shaft. I don't think this would be very easy to do. The nut/shaft/spring assembly should rotate as one with the top of the mill, the spring providing a holding force against the nut. Check your assembly instructions against your method - maybe somehow you got a faulty mechansim. Good Luck!
 
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www.woodstoppers.com
I checked them again. I know what you guys are suggesting but that is not the problem. I have to see how big of a hole I should drill in the top part of the hill... the small hole in the top. I think I drilled 1/8. I know that it fits tight. If that plate was not on the bottom of the top of the mill, it would not matter.... meaning I have to force the shaft into the hole. Picture starting with the mill's top nut screwed down as tight as it will go. Now back it off to get a coarse grind. I have to physically PULL up on the top piece of wood to allow the adjustment to take place. This also forces the wood into the nut to "hold" it in place. Basically, the spring is not holding the top up at all, it actually holds the grinding mechanism apart and the top is just held by the friction of the shaft against the wood. I think I need to drill a larger diameter hole. I will find the directions and see what I am doing wrong! Thanks
 
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May 13, 2007
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I just finished a half dozen mills, using the mechanism from Packard. I believe the instructions call for a 1/4" hole, but it required a great deal of force to assmeble the top onto the stem/rod with the 1/4" hole. I redrilled to 17/64", and things worked fine. With the smaller hole, it seemed that once the nut was tightened for a fine grind, it would require pulling up on the top after loosening the nut to get the stem to slide through the top to achieve a coarser grind.



Later,

Dale M
 
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Peter,
1/8" is so tight that it works against the spring. You should be drilling a minimum of 1/4". On many of my mills, I drill 5/16" from the bottom almost all the way through the head. That gives plenty of room for the shaft, but keeps the top hole small so that the nut covers it properly. I think if you relieve the hole somewhat, the problem will cure itself.
Kurt:cool2:
 
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... I drill 5/16" from the bottom almost all the way through . I think if you relieve the hole somewhat, the problem will cure itself.
Kurt:cool2:

What he said ...:cool2:
 
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