Parting tools.......

[Odie]

I've always used the old "diamond" point parting tool. I probably wouldn't have to ever purchase another parting tool because I've accumulated three of them over the years!

however......

For quite a long time now, I've been aware of the new shapes of parting tools available to the woodturner......all of them seem to be flat sided and narrow.

I've never seen a discussion between turners on the merits of all the available parting tools, and hopefully this thread will generate some knowledgeable discussion about them.

I'll begin by asking the question: Should I consider purchasing one of the narrow parting tools? Which one, and why would it be any better than the old familiar "diamond" parting tool?

Thanks for your input

otis of cologne

 

[Brian Hahn]

I've made several narrow parting tools out of power hacksaw blades. The narrow kerf doesn't eat up as much wood and lets me part off a piece closer to the chuck jaws. But they are flexible and I don't use them for deep cuts.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Odie,

I still use the "old" diamond tool and find it just fine. I understand that the thin tools are good for smaller spindle work, but I don't turn that stuff, so . . .

I do, however, use Ellsworth's grind on my parting tool. It cuts better and seems to hold its edge better. Pic is attached.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I like the narrow-kerf fluted type for parting in tight quarters and making boxes with continuous-look grain. http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-srby-fpt

Beyond that, I've got a couple of straight-sided scraper/peeler types.

 

[Max Taylor]

parting tools

I have a sixteenth width that if I have to make a deep cut, I just 'wiggle it' from side to side as I penetrate the wood.that widens the cut and doesnt heat the tool up quite so bad.I tried it and liked it. Max

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I use a 1/16" fluted (like in the link MM posted) if I'm going to reassemble and want to match grain again at some point. Its also useful for clean decorative grooves.

I have a short flat sided 1/8" that I use in tight quarters or on small work.

I have a much longer 3/16" diamond parting tool for bigger work.

If I'm going to try and part something really big (12"+) I'll use the straight blade with my center saver setup.

Ed

 

[Odie]

Interesting stuff........

OK, I can certainly see the advantages to the very thin parting tools when making boxes. The real advantage here is matching grain of lid to body, I'd assume.

I haven't produced very many boxes in the past, the last time in the late 80's or early 90's I think.....so, this hasn't been my mainstay. I do have a couple of practice boxes that are seasoning right now, though. Those two have already had the lid and body separated by the old "diamond" parting tool. If I do many more boxes, I'll need one of the thin parters.......

That fluted parting tool that MM pointed out is interesting. If the flute is on the bottom, or "long bevel", I'd assume you sharpen the short bevel. Do you do this similarly to a straight grind on a bowl gouge? That's the way I do my diamond parting tool, anyway......(I realize, of course, that some turners prefer to turn it on it's side and sharpen like a scraper......well, I think they do, anyway!) I'd assume the shape of the fluted parter has to do with longevity of the tool, and no other purpose than that......right?

When I need the best cut I can get, I do put a couple of little "spurs" on both sides of my diamond parting tool's cutting edge. I believe I saw that in Raffan's video........(haven't seen that old VHS for years!).........

.........but, I've never had a real need for specialized use of the parting tool very much. My most often use is cutting off waste blocks from the bottom of bowls, and you just need to get it off......no need for a finish cut here.

Thanks for the come-backs.....even though parting tools are not the hottest topic of discussion! 😀

otis of cologne

 

[Odie]

Odie,

I still use the "old" diamond tool and find it just fine. I understand that the thin tools are good for smaller spindle work, but I don't turn that stuff, so . . .

I do, however, use Ellsworth's grind on my parting tool. It cuts better and seems to hold its edge better. Pic is attached.

Hi Mark......

Question for you: What is different about the Ellsworth grind on a diamond parting tool, other than the lower edge is rounded? From the picture, I don't understand why it would cut any different than a diamond parting tool that's ground the old way.

I think you're right that the old diamond tool hasn't been eclipsed by any new advances in design.

Later

otis of cologne

 

[Mark Mandell]

Hi Mark......

Question for you: What is different about the Ellsworth grind on a diamond parting tool, other than the lower edge is rounded? From the picture, I don't understand why it would cut any different than a diamond parting tool that's ground the old way.

I think you're right that the old diamond tool hasn't been eclipsed by any new advances in design.

Later

otis of cologne

The "lower" is a convex radius while the "upper" is concave like hollow grinding. This combination gives you a bevel to ride and an edge that is more durable because it's got metal behind it. It cuts like a gouge rathen than like a skew.

mm