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Painted Surface Finish

Joined
Jul 16, 2005
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Location
Manchester, NH
I've been doing a handful of acrylic-painted bowls lately, but I've been having problems with the finish.

Doing research, I found many people use the Krylon sprays, so I got myself a can of their "Matte Finish". I apply 3 thin, even coats, but for some reason it just isn't working. I end up with a sticky, shiny residue in splotches on the surface. I have tried one piece with 24 hours of drying between coats, and another letting dry a couple minutes after each coat. Both times yielded the same results.

Do I need to hit it with steel wool between coats? Are there any tricks to spray finishing?
or
What matte finishes do you find successful on painted surfaces?

Thanks,
Nat
 
Nat,
Assume you mean you are using a Krylon clear finish over the acrylic colors. How long a dry time are you allowing for the acrylic color? Sounds as though the solvent from one product is mixing with another product. Others here will know the answer.

I always used a high gloss finish product, believing that it gave a harder, more durable finish. When my sweetie wanted a dull or very soft gloss surface, I worked it thoroughly with 0000 steel wool. Probably a wet sand with 1200 paper would be about the same.
 
Thanks.

Thank you "Richard in Madisonville" for the input.

I believe I have allowed sufficient drying time between acrylics and Krylon (one to five days).

I thank you for the advice on the 0000 steel wool, if I was doing only a few projects with a satin/matte finish I might use the wool.

Thanks,
Nat
 
I have tried Krylon clear finishes and have not been pleased. I find them to soft and blotchy. I seldom use paint on turnings, but I have made a lot of painted furniture and decorative Items, using acrylic and latex paints. I used water based Minwax polycrylic finsh on them with good results.
 
Another quick thought: Are you painting a wood that may have a high turpentine content? Aromatic cedar and pitchy pine would count.

Oh, almost forgot. Are you drying in a heated area? Some of the paints darn near won't dry at under 50 degrees.

Dietrich
 
Thanks all for the responses.

I will try out the Minwax polycrylic. If that works out my Krylon-war will be over, and I will once again be able to continue working without the horrible fate of sticky finishes looming over me.

I only do my weird bowls in domestic hardwoods such as beech, boxelder, maple, and butternut. I doubt that those woods have too high of a turpentine content, but thank you for the consideration, Dietrich.

Currently, my parents aren't too keen on paints and and finishes drying throughout the house. I've had to resort to my bedroom as an area to dry. Last time I checked my bedroom was heated.. so I think they should be drying fine.

Thanks,
Nat
 
Painted Surface

Nat,

Are the bowls completely dry before you're applying a finish? If the bowl or vase is still drying I could see a spray finish having a problem. Oil based finishes may not have the same issue since the penetrate and seal.

You may also want to consider a sealer coating before the final spray finish.

Let us know how it goes.

Brodie
 
And, by the way, you are aware that huffing paint fumes is not only illegal and dangerous but fun......right?

Dietrich
 
Haha Dietrich,

I was waiting to see if someone would catch me and my dirty drug habit.

The basement is for spraying, the bedroom is for drying.
Flying glass particles in the basement with my mom's glasswork, and 2x4 sawdust from the father.

I'm not THAT dumb.
 
Minwax Hand Rubbed Polyurathane

Krylon matte finish is a dulling spray. It is best when applied over an existing finish, It tend to cloud the finish and dull the color as well as the surface. Try a semi-gloss hand rubbed polyurethane. Apply the first coat liberally and let it dry. Go over it with fine steel wool and apply a second coat. wipe off any excess and let dry. You will get a nice hard durable finish that can be dulled with ultra fine steel wool.
 
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