Oval Skew Sharpening

[Bob Way]

I'm skew challenged to begin with, but I'm working on that. I've got an oval skew and started to touch up the edge a bit. I've run into a couple of sharpening issues I'm sure one of you has figured out. The bevel on the skew is also oval, with a straight edge at the normal angle. If I sharpen the edge I can keep the angle of the edge, but not follow the oval shape of the bevel. If I sharpen trying to keep the oval shape of the bevel, then I change the angle of the edge. Anyone know the secret, or any little tips that might help me sharpen this critter? I would certainly appreciate it.

Bob Way

 

[Bill Boehme]

The bevel itself is flat -- the oval shape along the back edge is due to the oval cross-section of the tool. If sharpening on a dry grinder, use a tool rest and just make certain that you do not roll the tool as you move it across the grindstone. I would recommend against using something like the Wolverine skew attachment for this particular tool. I use the TORMEK which has a fixture to hold the oval skew in a fixed orientation.

Bill

 

[pencheff]

The bevel itself is flat -- the oval shape along the back edge is due to the oval cross-section of the tool. If sharpening on a dry grinder, use a tool rest and just make certain that you do not roll the tool as you move it across the grindstone. I would recommend against using something like the Wolverine skew attachment for this particular tool. I use the TORMEK which has a fixture to hold the oval skew in a fixed orientation.

Bill

On a standard dry grinder you may find a jig like this useful. You can use it to clamp your oval shaped skew in place to keep it from wallowing from side to side as you sharpen. It also helps you hold the skew at the proper angle in relation to the stone.

 

[hcbph]

I use an India Stone with oil to sharpen mine. I've also tried a diamond embedded arrangement with good results. I think I get a better edge that way. Nothing wrong with a grinder (I have a water bath unit) but I find I prefer doing it by hand.

Paul

 

[john lucas]

I have tried the Oneway skew sharpening jig and it's OK but I do better on the oval skew if I do it by hand. several years ago I made a homemade version of the one Greg showed, I made mine out of wood and carved coves to match the oval skew. I gave it away a few years ago. I simply hold the skew gently against the wheel so I can"feel" the bevel. Then I move it back and forth. I don't sharpen all the way to the tip just very close. Then I do the other side. Once I'm done at the grinder I go through a series of diamone hones,(I use the EZ-lap plastic hones) and go through from medium to ultra fine, then I strop it. From then on I will just go to the hones. About once a month or even less I have to go back to the grinder.

 

[Matt Lewis]

Frustration

I am on my second oval skew after having totally destroyed the first trying to sharpen it. I have used the Oneway skew jig and find that it doesn't work so well on the oval skew. My main problem is that I continue to get a longer bevel on one side than the other (not to mention the typical problems with multiple facets from rocking). The difference in bevel length is very frustrating. Any advice or insight?

Thanks!

Matt

 

[Rob Wallace]

Don't use an oval skew!

I am on my second oval skew after having totally destroyed the first trying to sharpen it. I have used the Oneway skew jig and find that it doesn't work so well on the oval skew. My main problem is that I continue to get a longer bevel on one side than the other (not to mention the typical problems with multiple facets from rocking). The difference in bevel length is very frustrating. Any advice or insight?

Thanks!

Matt

The advice I received was directly from the mouth of Alan Lacer - the 'skew guru' himself. Simply don't use an oval skew!

Everything you can do with an oval skew you can do with a modified standard skew without the hassle of having to worry about it rolling when sharpening. I have three oval skews (1/2", 3/4" and 1"), and haven't touched them in over a year after taking a class with Alan Lacer. (These tools now represent wasted money due to inexperience, and are evidence of "tool frenzy" naivete). After taking his class, I bought his 'signature' skew (1-3/8") and modified my remaining standard skews as he suggests with rounded edges on the short side, and a flat surface on the long side. I can now confidently do standard V-cuts, roll beads, pommels, etc. without problem (....yes, I still get an occasional catch, but NOTHING like before!). I agree with him that the cross section profile of an oval skew really does not give any advantages, and in fact imparts DISadvantages when trying to sharpen the tool. This is the point being brought to light in this thread. Further, the oval section of the tool actually has reduced tool mass (for the given cross section) than a standard skew, and thus is less stable over the rest than a beefier standard skew.

Alan was one of the authors some time ago in an article on Oval versus Standard skews that appeared in American Woodturner. I don't have the publication date with me at the moment, but you may want to read this article.

Without flat reference surfaces to place the skew in correct position on the grinder rest while sharpening, they will have to be "created" through the use of a jig or other holder while the tool is being held on the grinding wheel. As has already been expressed in this thread, it is a royal pain to sharpen these oval skews.

I recommend that you see Alan Lacer's first video on the skew (Dark side - Sweet side), where he explains and demonstrates proper tool sharpening and use. It is an excellent video - well done, with lots of "take-home" content. Short of having him looking over your shoulder and telling you "OK" or "No!", the video is the next best thing to taking a class with him - it will pay for itself quickly in loss of frustration when using this tool after gaining some experience, and in wood saved from reduced or eliminated catches!

Rob Wallace

 

[John Nicholas]

Round Skews

I was looking at a three point tool with my turning club mentor last night. His round skew was turned into a three point tool at a recent club workshop.

I have a round skew I made from a piece of 3/8 round HSS and did my own handle. I always reach for one of my other skews.

I thought I might regrind it into a three point tool. I know it is a round tool and the thread is talking oval. Maybe a way to get something out of your tool investment.

John

 

[dkulze]

I used to use a flat stoned grinder but recently switched to a remarkably inovative concept in sharpening. I just do it freehand on my grinder.

I brace it against the regular grinder rest with my hand and rock it back and forth with that as a pivot point (the center of a circle with the tip being sharpened along an arc). Since I've adopted a curved edge to my skew (works great and much easier to control), this works perfectly. Fast too.

The other aspect of the oval skew is that they tend to come with a truly huge and flat bevel. In sharpening, I've shortened mine to abotu 2-2 1/2x the tool thickness and ended up with a much more usable tool.

 

[Aaron G+11]

I don't see what the problem is with sharpening an oval skew. I have successfully used an oval skew to open paint cans for some eight years now. It has never needed sharpening.

I have seen/used some jigs from Oneway and Veritas for a grinder.

Why do you need to take it to a grinder? A good honing is all a skew should need unless you drop it.

Aaron

 

[Matt Lewis]

Frustration w/ the Oval Skew

Thanks everyone for replying. Sounds as if the oval skew will require a lot of practice and more frustration before I break the code. I am quickly getting to the point of putting it on hold for now and going with a standard skew. The grinding of the oval skew is expending most of my turning time, not to mention my pocket book, and I don't believe it is worth it. The skew is a tool that I very much enjoy using and want to master, but don't want to spend all my time grinding. I haven't seen much in the how-to books on grinding an oval skew other than the negative aspects...guess I understand why now.

Another lesson that I can pass to the next beginner turner!

 

[waltben]

Oval Skews

The only way I've found to sharpen one and keep close to the same bevel is with a diamond hone and lightly rub it touching the edge and heel of the concave bevel. Once the bevel is gone and the two sides are flat, you can continue using it like that without a bevel (what I do), try making one yourself, or just buy a new one. If you try to measure the radius of the factory bevel, I believe it'll come out to something over 12".

 

[Dave Roller]

In my case the money for the skew attachment for the Wolverine was money wasted, although I did not try it with flat skews.

I attached a piece of MDF to my 6" faceplate and glued a piece of cloth-backed sandpaper to the MDF using "removable" glue. Since most lathes are reversable, it is easy to touch up either side of oval or flat skews. I have fashioned a table under which I have put a pipe flange and a pipe which will fit into my tool rest base. Once sharp, I keep them honed with a diamond hone. Razor sharp, they are.

 

[GeorgeH]

I must agree with Aaron G+11, Natty Boh, Waltben and others who seem to prefer honing their tools. IMHO, if you're running to the grinder or sharpening jig every time you want to "sweeten" up the edge on your tools you're probably wasting a lot of HSS. Once a proper bevel and edge are obtained a good honing is about all that should be necessary to maintain the cutting edge necessary for doing a good job.

 

[john lucas]

You guys must not use the skew much. I do hone a lot, but sooner or later the bevel gets so flat that honing takes too long. That's when I go back to the grinder. I watched George Hatfield use the skew and he used an oil stone. There are about as many ways to sharpen a skew as ther are skews. All of these metnods take practice to keep the bevel consistent.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The advice I received was directly from the mouth of Alan Lacer - the 'skew guru' himself. Simply don't use an oval skew! ........

Well, he would say something like that .... after all, he is selling his own version of a skew, which to me has more in common with a sharpened tire iron than a turning tool. I have one of his "skews" and it has its uses. It is easy to control because of its mass and exaggerated curved cutting edge, that becomes a crutch to allow you to get by without developing good skew techniques.

I have my own collection of skews -- all of which held the promise of turning me into an instant skew-meister. After a lot of practice and a hands-on course with Nick Cook, I feel fairly confident using one and my favorite is the Sorby oval skew (it was my favorite before taking the class with Nick and I found that it also happens to be Nick's favorite). I also think that something other than a dry grinder is necessary to get a skew as sharp as it ought to be. I use a TORMEK which has a holder jig that is perfect for the oval skew. It is also possible to get a very good edge using hand sharpening.

Bill

 

[Dave Roller]

You guys must not use the skew much. I do hone a lot, but sooner or later the bevel gets so flat that honing takes too long. That's when I go back to the grinder. I watched George Hatfield use the skew and he used an oil stone. There are about as many ways to sharpen a skew as ther are skews. All of these metnods take practice to keep the bevel consistent.

John, indeed the flat bevel of a dull skew does take longer to hone than one still having part of the hollow grind remaining from having previously sharpened it on a bench grinder. The following is from a Robert Sorby catalog.

"There are a number of methods for sharpening turning tools. The conventional method is to use a bench grinder. Whilst not orginally designed for this purpose, these machines have been adapted for most turning tools, although skew chisels should not be sharpened on bench grinders because the hollow grind is not suitable."

As a beginner having a lot of trouble sharpening turning tools, this statement was all it took to get me to use the set-up I described above for nicked skews. I find the skew a very manageable tool if it has a flat bevel. (I almost said perfectly flat bevel!)

I wonder if beginners (and I've been turning only about 18 months) have so much trouble learning to ride the bevel because there is no bevel, strickly speaking, when tools are ground on bench grinders. Just wondering.