hey guys. quick question: i am purchasing a jet 1642 (headstock slides to the end of the bed for outboard turning) but i dont really feel like spending $400 on a freestanding tool rest. any ideas for homemade rests? i am thinking of having some sort of partial bed section at the top so i can move the banjo more freely.
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outboard turning stand
- Thread starter jcooper
- Start date
I don't recommend a free outboard standing stand due to my experience a few years ago. I was doing a heavy 75 lb chunk using the Delta free standing outboard stand. It was necessary to use an extension to reach down inside. It must have tilted and I ended up snaping the cast iron extension. One time, one chance is enough and it just takes one time believe me to make you cautious of your setups. I have a outboard extension now on both of my Vicmarcs. This setup is bolted to your lathe and the heavy post extends down to the floor. This is similar to a post on the VB36. You can get the outboard Vicmarc assembly from Robust or Craft Supplies for around $300. From there you can adept it to your machine. Some Powermatic 2035 users have also done this. I also don't believe in making a homemade one out of a tire rim, post and concrete, because of the possible tilt effect. GT
It's just not worth the risk using an outboard stand that wasn't designed for the work you'll put it through. Get one made for your lathe. It's well worth saving for. You may very well be the one who only gets one chance.
Last edited:
Richard Baker
RIP
J.,
The 1642 has four 3/8" bolt holes tapped into the end of the bed. This is the place to start if you're going to build your own. Suggest some heavy angle for the framework, maybe 3x3x1/2". Good luck. Let us know how it turns out if you build one, as others will be interested.
The 1642 has four 3/8" bolt holes tapped into the end of the bed. This is the place to start if you're going to build your own. Suggest some heavy angle for the framework, maybe 3x3x1/2". Good luck. Let us know how it turns out if you build one, as others will be interested.
If you want some ideas, take Richard's suggestion then look at the manual that's on the vendor's website for the Powermatic 3520B. They've changed the legset so you can mount a bed extension lower on the legs and move the banjo and toolrest there for outboard turning.
Here's a thought: take a piece of 1/4" plate steel that fits on the inside of the leg opening. You'll need some method of clamping it in. I'd prefer that rather than drilling the legs (in case you don't like it). On the centerline of the opening, drill 4 holes to match the holes on the end of the bed (even multiples depending on the diameter of your planned turnings. Get or make something like the 18" bed extension and bolt it on. You might want/have to put some bracing on it, if required. Move your banjo and toolrest down and give it a try.
Hope that helps
Paul
Here's a thought: take a piece of 1/4" plate steel that fits on the inside of the leg opening. You'll need some method of clamping it in. I'd prefer that rather than drilling the legs (in case you don't like it). On the centerline of the opening, drill 4 holes to match the holes on the end of the bed (even multiples depending on the diameter of your planned turnings. Get or make something like the 18" bed extension and bolt it on. You might want/have to put some bracing on it, if required. Move your banjo and toolrest down and give it a try.
Hope that helps
Paul
Get a vicmarc outboard tool rest
I have a Jet 1642 also. I mounted a Vicmarc outboard turning rig to it with minimal fuss (there's a post on this forum from me with instructions and a picture if you search for it). I ordered the Vicmarc rig from Craft Supplies (who I also sent the plans to). Since the Vicmarc rig bolts to the lathe (you have to drill and tap four holes) but only has a single post going to the floor, the stability is tremendous and the articulating arm positions the toolrest most anywhere you want it. Floor stands are too cumbersome, hard to level and the legs always seem to get in the way. I love my set up and gained 10" of swing!
Here's instructions:
Jet 1642 w/Vicmarc Outboard attachment – Setup
Specs.
Top bracket measures 7 ½ in. from top of lathe bed
Lower bracket mounted 6 ¾ in. from top bracket (measuring top-to-top) – this could be mounted as much as ¼ in. or ½ in. lower – 7 in. or 7 ¼ in.
Top right corner of top bracket is set 1/8 in.out from leg (protrudes this much) – caution – don’t fudge this to the left any or when you drill bolt hole into leg, you’ll be drilling into the corner of the left hand leg.
This setup will yield the following:
Spindle center should be 16.5 in. from right edge of top bracket, measuring to that part of the bracket that sticks out to hold the large pin that the first arm mounts on.
Spindle center measures 18 ½ in. to the first arm when it’s locked in at 90 degrees from lathe legs. – if lower bracket is mounted lower than specified, this measurement will increase accordingly.
Installation notes:
Lathe tech at Craft Supplies recommended drilling and tapping holes to mount brackets as opposed to using through bolts, although that’s what Vicmarc supplies. I used 3/8 in. x 16 t.p.i. standard tap and a ¼ in. drill bit which yields a 1/16 in thread to accommodate 3/8 in. x 1 ¼ in. bolts I used to mount the brackets.
Supplied mounting bolts are metric – ditto holes in bracket to match. If you use 3/8 in. bolts, you have to drill out the holes in the brackets to match (the metric size is just slightly smaller) – you could use supplied bolts if you have a tap and drill bit to match but I didn’t.
I used C-clamps to hold the top bracket in position and a centering drill bit to mark the EXACT center of holes on vicmarc bracket. Then I took the bracket off and used a 1/16 in. bit and drilled a pilot hole then I drilled the ¼ in hole and tapped it. Make sure to drill holes straight. The cast iron legs drill and tap very easily. A drop of thin oil is a good idea when tapping the holes. You may want to drill one hole, tap it, remount the bracket with a bolt, make sure it’s in correct position, clamp the other side and mark that center, remove the bracket and then drill and tap the hole for accuracy.
Once holes for one bracket are tapped, mount it with the bolts tightened down, put the big pin in and tighten set screw then feed the other bracket onto the pin, lock it in position and mark those holes as above, remove the second bracket, drill and tap one hole, set bracket back in position, bolt it down, mark second hole, take bracket off, drill and tap that hole.
Bolt everything up – note – you may have to loosen bolts a bit to get big pin through one bracket, through the first arm and then through the second bracket. Once that’s done, then tighten everthing up and mount the short arm to the first arm.
YOU HAVE TO SHORTEN THE TOOL POST BY CUTTING OFF THE BOTTOM if you mount this to a 16 in. lathe (the Vicmarc has a 20 in. swing). For the Jet, I cut off 2 in. but in one case, on a platter, using a scraper, I found out this was a bit too much (because of the short length of the 12 in. tool post supplied with the Jet) and had to jack up the post with a piece of steel). Cutting off 1 ½ in should be okay. I did the cut off on an old chop saw with a metal cutting blade in it – worked great. Watch the sparks, though and don’t set anything on fire! Remember that the amount cut off depends on whether or not you use the adjustable legs and how far they are extended. If your lathe is bolted to floor, better judge for yourself.
Once mounted, the outboard rig essentially becomes part of the lathe and is rock solid when tightened down and offers a much better solution than a floor stand. I haven’t found any twisting or teeter-tottering of this setup. You may want some additional ballast on the tailstock end – I put two 50 lb. sandbags on top of the ballast box I built from the Woodcentral design.
That’s it – have fun!
--- Denny
PS - I'll email you the picture.
I have a Jet 1642 also. I mounted a Vicmarc outboard turning rig to it with minimal fuss (there's a post on this forum from me with instructions and a picture if you search for it). I ordered the Vicmarc rig from Craft Supplies (who I also sent the plans to). Since the Vicmarc rig bolts to the lathe (you have to drill and tap four holes) but only has a single post going to the floor, the stability is tremendous and the articulating arm positions the toolrest most anywhere you want it. Floor stands are too cumbersome, hard to level and the legs always seem to get in the way. I love my set up and gained 10" of swing!
Here's instructions:
Jet 1642 w/Vicmarc Outboard attachment – Setup
Specs.
Top bracket measures 7 ½ in. from top of lathe bed
Lower bracket mounted 6 ¾ in. from top bracket (measuring top-to-top) – this could be mounted as much as ¼ in. or ½ in. lower – 7 in. or 7 ¼ in.
Top right corner of top bracket is set 1/8 in.out from leg (protrudes this much) – caution – don’t fudge this to the left any or when you drill bolt hole into leg, you’ll be drilling into the corner of the left hand leg.
This setup will yield the following:
Spindle center should be 16.5 in. from right edge of top bracket, measuring to that part of the bracket that sticks out to hold the large pin that the first arm mounts on.
Spindle center measures 18 ½ in. to the first arm when it’s locked in at 90 degrees from lathe legs. – if lower bracket is mounted lower than specified, this measurement will increase accordingly.
Installation notes:
Lathe tech at Craft Supplies recommended drilling and tapping holes to mount brackets as opposed to using through bolts, although that’s what Vicmarc supplies. I used 3/8 in. x 16 t.p.i. standard tap and a ¼ in. drill bit which yields a 1/16 in thread to accommodate 3/8 in. x 1 ¼ in. bolts I used to mount the brackets.
Supplied mounting bolts are metric – ditto holes in bracket to match. If you use 3/8 in. bolts, you have to drill out the holes in the brackets to match (the metric size is just slightly smaller) – you could use supplied bolts if you have a tap and drill bit to match but I didn’t.
I used C-clamps to hold the top bracket in position and a centering drill bit to mark the EXACT center of holes on vicmarc bracket. Then I took the bracket off and used a 1/16 in. bit and drilled a pilot hole then I drilled the ¼ in hole and tapped it. Make sure to drill holes straight. The cast iron legs drill and tap very easily. A drop of thin oil is a good idea when tapping the holes. You may want to drill one hole, tap it, remount the bracket with a bolt, make sure it’s in correct position, clamp the other side and mark that center, remove the bracket and then drill and tap the hole for accuracy.
Once holes for one bracket are tapped, mount it with the bolts tightened down, put the big pin in and tighten set screw then feed the other bracket onto the pin, lock it in position and mark those holes as above, remove the second bracket, drill and tap one hole, set bracket back in position, bolt it down, mark second hole, take bracket off, drill and tap that hole.
Bolt everything up – note – you may have to loosen bolts a bit to get big pin through one bracket, through the first arm and then through the second bracket. Once that’s done, then tighten everthing up and mount the short arm to the first arm.
YOU HAVE TO SHORTEN THE TOOL POST BY CUTTING OFF THE BOTTOM if you mount this to a 16 in. lathe (the Vicmarc has a 20 in. swing). For the Jet, I cut off 2 in. but in one case, on a platter, using a scraper, I found out this was a bit too much (because of the short length of the 12 in. tool post supplied with the Jet) and had to jack up the post with a piece of steel). Cutting off 1 ½ in should be okay. I did the cut off on an old chop saw with a metal cutting blade in it – worked great. Watch the sparks, though and don’t set anything on fire! Remember that the amount cut off depends on whether or not you use the adjustable legs and how far they are extended. If your lathe is bolted to floor, better judge for yourself.
Once mounted, the outboard rig essentially becomes part of the lathe and is rock solid when tightened down and offers a much better solution than a floor stand. I haven’t found any twisting or teeter-tottering of this setup. You may want some additional ballast on the tailstock end – I put two 50 lb. sandbags on top of the ballast box I built from the Woodcentral design.
That’s it – have fun!
--- Denny
PS - I'll email you the picture.
Denny it would be great to see the picture here! You can post it by selecting "manage attachments" when you do a reply, then just select the pic. I wanna see it too!
Denny--- WOW doesn't come close
TTFN
Ralph
TTFN
Ralph
Thanks for the picture
I have a 1442 and was trying to follow the conversation. But the picture showed me I needed which is that setup should also work for me because I have the same leg setup. Drilling and tapping are a nuisance but....
I have a 1442 and was trying to follow the conversation. But the picture showed me I needed which is that setup should also work for me because I have the same leg setup. Drilling and tapping are a nuisance but....