• Congratulations to Alex Bradley winner of the December 2024 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
  • Conversations are now Direct Messages (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Gabriel Hoff for "Spalted Beech Round Bottom Box" being selected as Turning of the Week for January 6, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Original Powermatic 3520

C

Christey Gibson

Joined
May 31, 2022
Messages
11
Likes
3
Location
Mount Juliet, TN
First post! I've been turning for about 3 years. Started on a Delta midi then moved up to a Grizzly G0838 (that I'll be keeping). Recently we ran across a great deal on an original powermatic 3520 and even tho I didn't actually need it my husband and I decided to get it. It needs a new VFD and my husband is a programmer and very handy so that will be here tomorrow and I expect to be up and running this weekend. He's already upgraded a Nova to variable for my nephew. The PM came with no documents so I'm looking for a manual but all I can find is the 3520A manual. I also think the banjo has been changed out because I read the 3520 had a 1 1/8 post size and this one uses my 1 inch tool rests perfectly. It came with a bed extension which I'm happy about since I can slide the tailstock out of my way when not needed. Honestly just looking for some insight on the machine. Pros and cons, info about adding a tachometer, maybe other things I haven't thought about. Thanks in advance.

editing to add - total for the machine, the new wiring in the shop and the VFD came to $1175. That's a deal for such a great machine. I'm really excited.

PM3520.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice get - especially with the extension. Looking at it, there don't seem like any major differences between yours and the 3520A I have. Great machines - mine lacks the tach too, and I don't feel the need to add one. Make some shavings!!! Not much in terms of cons with that machine, once you get the VFD sorted out.
 
Kirk Amidon said:
Nice get - especially with the extension. Looking at it, there don't seem like any major differences between yours and the 3520A I have. Great machines - mine lacks the tach too, and I don't feel the need to add one. Make some shavings!!! Not much in terms of cons with that machine, once you get the VFD sorted out.
Click to expand...
I guess I'm just used to the tach so I was considering trying to add one. Can't wait to use it. My Grizzly has been great but I think the Powermatic is an upgrade even tho it's older. When this started I never thought I would end up as addicted as I am. I was gonna make candlesticks, maybe a rolling pin or two. 😂🤣
 
Can't wait to see what you turn on your new beast. I think you should do what makes you happy about turning. If you feel more confidante and comfortable if you have a tach then by all means add one. You can make one really big candle stick on that machine.

Gregory
 
On my machine with no tach you can just use the position of the speed controller knob as a speed reference. For my 3520b it is a linear knob so turned all the way is 1200rpm then tuned halfway is 600 rpm…
 
I had a very early version of the 3520A. Mine actually had a small fan under the baffles on the phase converter to keep it cool. I had to put some fine mesh screen over the top to keep chips out. Speed ranges were 0 (actually about 10 or so rpm before it turned off) to 1500 on low speed range which you need for coring. High speed range was 1500 to 3000. On the B model they changed that to 50 to 1200 on low range and up to 3000. The original pressure plate on the bottom of the headstock was cast iron which snapped when I was coring some black locust. That was replaced with a steel plate. Do check that out. The original post was 1 inch. I stripped a couple of the handles on the set screw for the banjo and had a friend make me a sliding T post for the set screw like is common on bench vices. Much better. My set screw did have a brass insert in the end to keep from marring the tool rest post. Can't remember exactly, but the original tool rest was at least 12 inch, maybe 14. It cracked at the top of the post. The whole thing was cast iron. They changed that too. A very good lathe, you will get lots of miles out of it.

robo hippy
 
robo hippy said:
I had a very early version of the 3520A. Mine actually had a small fan under the baffles on the phase converter to keep it cool. I had to put some fine mesh screen over the top to keep chips out. Speed ranges were 0 (actually about 10 or so rpm before it turned off) to 1500 on low speed range which you need for coring. High speed range was 1500 to 3000. On the B model they changed that to 50 to 1200 on low range and up to 3000. The original pressure plate on the bottom of the headstock was cast iron which snapped when I was coring some black locust. That was replaced with a steel plate. Do check that out. The original post was 1 inch. I stripped a couple of the handles on the set screw for the banjo and had a friend make me a sliding T post for the set screw like is common on bench vices. Much better. My set screw did have a brass insert in the end to keep from marring the tool rest post. Can't remember exactly, but the original tool rest was at least 12 inch, maybe 14. It cracked at the top of the post. The whole thing was cast iron. They changed that too. A very good lathe, you will get lots of miles out of it.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply and the info. I don't have a coring rig (yet) but I'll check to see if it has the original plate. The guy I bought it from wasn't the original owner and he didn't have a lot of info. I have a set of robust tool rests that fit just fine. It didn't come with any. Now if I only had a robo hippy rest I would be happy (just kidding). We plan to put a shield on the fan. I saw your comment on that in an old post.
 
Guy here in S Cal w/a machine shop added a tach for me, new detachable VFD, new belt and bearings, all on my 3520a. He also replaced the spindle lock with a steel one—the cast iron original cracked and broke. My lathe is outside so bringing the VFD inside is to protect it. See my picture in upper left corner—that’s the lathe. Enjoy!
 
I have the 3520b and two friends have 3520a lathes: no practical difference between the two models except for the speed control. But guess what, none of the better turners I know pay any attention to the speed numbers, they turn to some speed that works for them.

A common question in demos, mostly from beginners, is "What speed are you using?". The answer is usually "Have no idea, let me look". I personally turn most spindles, especially small and thin, at this speed: Fast. And platters and bowls at "Slower". Sanding is "Slow".

If the speed display on my 3520b quit working I'd probably not bother fixing it unless I planned to sell it.

My mill and metal lathe both have speed readouts and sometimes that can important, as is when drilling certain materials. My drill presses don't have a readout but I bought a cheap optical tachometer from amazon and can check if needed.''

The banjos of the full sized lathes I have and all I have used accept a 1" tool post. I understand some Oneway lathes are different. The 1.125 post size is new info for me. You can contact Robust (who arguably make the best tool rests available) and ask - they know everything about current and probably about past lathes.

JKJ
 
Alan Weinberg said:
Guy here in S Cal w/a machine shop added a tach for me, new detachable VFD, new belt and bearings, all on my 3520a. He also replaced the spindle lock with a steel one—the cast iron original cracked and broke. My lathe is outside so bringing the VFD inside is to protect it. See my picture in upper left corner—that’s the lathe. Enjoy!
Click to expand...
If I left my lathe outside here in Middle TN it would be a mess of rust in no time! That's crazy that you store it outside.
 
The new VFD delivered this afternoon and my husband installed it. We also had to run a 220 plug for it so I can have it and my Grizzly available. Finally got it running about 10pm and I put a piece of walnut on it and gave it a whirl. It feels super stable and I love the tailstock (the Grizzly tailstock is pretty bad). I'm not all that worried about the tachometer, it would just be nice till I get a feel for the machine. Now for the accessories! All my other machines have been 1x8tpi so I don't have any faceplates or chucks for it yet. Not a big deal. I can use an adapter temporarily even tho I know it's not ideal.
 
I
Christey Gibson said:
I can use an adapter temporarily even tho I know it's not ideal.
Click to expand...
Think it's funny you say temporary. While you'll more than likely will primarily use the accessories you procure for this machine, since you have an adapter you'll grab that old chuck from your other machine when you do not want to take a piece out. Congratulations on turning on your new lathe, enjoy it.

Gregory
 
Christey Gibson said:
The new VFD delivered this afternoon and my husband installed it. We also had to run a 220 plug for it so I can have it and my Grizzly available. Finally got it running about 10pm and I put a piece of walnut on it and gave it a whirl. It feels super stable and I love the tailstock (the Grizzly tailstock is pretty bad). I'm not all that worried about the tachometer, it would just be nice till I get a feel for the machine. Now for the accessories! All my other machines have been 1x8tpi so I don't have any faceplates or chucks for it yet. Not a big deal. I can use an adapter temporarily even tho I know it's not ideal.
Click to expand...
The adapters are not a big deal. More precisely it's barely off of ideal. I slowly migrated my stock of 1x8 chucks to other turners and have 1 left for my mini lathe the kids use. I wouldn't sweat the adapter or purge the 1x8 supply of chucks and faceplates any faster than you want.
As others have indicated, you can get a super cheap laser tach and measure the speeds and belt positions and mark the dial if you really need to know.

The only time I worry is cole jaws which seem to fan at higher RPM and even then I just turn it down
 
Michael Brown said:
The only time I worry is cole jaws which seem to fan at higher RPM and even then I just turn it down
Click to expand...
I'm not a fan of cole jaws period. I never got comfortable with them. I have a vacuum chuck I use to take my tenons off and I love it. Unfortunately it won't fit the Powermatic with an adapter since it goes thru the headstock. As long as it's 16 inches and under I'll still do that on the Grizzly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top