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Oregon CS1500 chainsaw maintenance

Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
741
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668
Location
Minneapolis, MN
A coworker gave me a few 12" tall, 15" diameter pieces of sopping wet, heavy-as-concrete apple wood this week. Yesterday I put my Hundred-Dollar-Wonder Oregon CS1500 corded electric chain saw to the ultimate test, cutting the rounds into half circles, ripping with the grain. In the end, it worked admirably. A bit slower than what my ol' Stihl Farm Boss would have done, but I did it inside my garage on a rainy day without any 2-stroke smoke to inhale. Like any chainsaw, when ripping with the grain, the bottom chip discharge quickly clogs with ribbon shavings, so literally about every 10 seconds I had to stop and pull the clog out of the chute. Takes about 1.5 seconds, pfft.

Anyway, last fall I helped my neighbor by using the saw to cut down a 6-pack clump of 6-7" diameter, 30' tall silver maple. Zip-zip-zip-zip... easy. But, I neglected to give the saw a thorough once over after that day, and yesterday it let me know by tossing off the (properly tensioned) chain. No injury to me or the chain, but it forced me to stop and examine the saw closely.

I found the chain groove of the bar, and the front sprocket area, was very gunked up with oily sawdust. And although I learned last year that chain tension must be continuously watched, and tweaked as needed, I think that bar gunk (see the paper towel mess, all from the bar chain groove) was leading to the derailment. Even the built-in round sharpening stone was caked with oily dust, I scraped it clean with a dental pick. It goes without saying (uh-huh) that any saw needs to be carefully and regularly cleaned, maintained, and adjusted, but this saw probably can't handle the, uh, deferred maintenance that a big gas Stihl, Husky, etc. can handle. It's a light weight saw with a smaller profile chain. It punches WAY above its weight class, but it needs to be treated more carefully and deliberately than the bigger gas machines. I still heartily recommend this saw for in-shop/garage and yard use. I am very pleased with it overall.

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Nifty. That could actually be too wide (??) for this Oregon electric saw, but it's easily made from a piece of scrap metal of the proper thickness.
Nope, they work just fine in .043 gauge bars - fits them all from .043-.050-.058 and .063 gauge bars (I think they're a .035" thickness) - I have ALWAYS had them laying around (since the mid 1980's) probably a half dozen laying everywhere around the shop on benches , when I was in small engine repair business I had 3 of them on my chainsaw bench, 4 on my bar & chain bench (for bar rail servicing - I could also close bar rails back to standard gauge - had a tool kit & press for that, grind, lap & dress bar rails, in addition to replacing bar tips - Loggers were a big business for me back in the 80's - 90's and saved them tons of money over having to buy new bars) and at least one in every tool box drawer, eventually... I still keep finding them when I pull out toolbox drawers all the way to look for some small piece I might have.. I got so used to just having them (and gave way many more) It never occurred to me that other folks might not be aware of them.. LOL! They were like a 10 cent gadget back in the day (10 pack for $0.99) so I just had them all over the place...
 
About chainsaw bars and other things.

I always carry a small tool that:
- checks for proper depth gauge height
- has a sharpening angle guide
- cleans gunk from the bar groove

A few comments:

The bar groove may also need adjustment from time to time. If it gets pinched in a tree, it can be widened with a screw driver. If it gets TOO wide, the chain will be sloppy in the groove and can tilt from side to side - can lead to sloppy cuts and accelerate bar and chain wear. A sloppy bar groove can lead to cutting a curve or angle through the log instead of making a straight cut. I recently watched a guy make one curved cut after another - his chain was loose in the bar groove AND was hanging down from the bottom of the bar due to insufficient tension.

I have a special adjustable tool with a rollers and a handle that can be pushed down the groove and squeeze a groove that is too wide to compensate for wear.

Also, the edges of the groove can wear and become quite sharp, leading to wear and a possible cuts on the hand. The edges of the bar should be dressed with a flat file when needed.

Also, many know this but if not: the bar should be flipped over occasionally, after several sharpenings and when a new chain is mounted. This will even out the bar edge wear and make the bar work better and last longer.

Always check and adjust the chain tension - I’ve see too many cutting with the tension too loose and the chain hanging down a bit from the bottom of the bar. Note that as the chain stretches, it can space out the teeth and accelerate the wear on the sprocket. Inspect the sprocket periodically - they are not too expensive to replace.

I NEVER let a shop sharpen a chain. They set the machine to the shortest tooth and grind all teeth to match. It doesn’t hurt anything for some teeth to be different length. I have a good benchtop electric sharpener and sharpen each tooth to what it needs, not necessarily to equal lengths. (For example, hitting steel or a rock can damage the point on just some teeth but not others - no need to sharpen away good steel in undamaged teeth to make them all even. Even a missing tooth or two won’t decrease the ability to cut a log.

For the best and fasted cutting, make sure to adjust the heights of the depth gauges as the teeth are reduced in length by sharpening. If tool high, they will prevent the teeth from properly biting into the wood and the saw won’t cut like it used too, even if the teeth are very sharp.
I know a guy who would take his saw to a local shop for sharpening. Not only did the shop not check or adjust the depth gauges, the guy sharpening chains in that shop didn’t even know about the depth gauges. After several sharpenings, the depth gauge heights kept the saw from cutting - they told the guy the chain was worn out and sold him a new one. I took his last old chain, adjusted the depth gauges, and it cut like a dream!

One more thing about chainsaws - if someone has an old chainsaw that is hard to start or doesn’t seem to have full power, even with new gas (and no leaks in the fuel pickup hoses, clean air and fuel pickup filters, etc - ALWAYS clean dirt and sawdust from around the filler caps before removing them), it is inexpensive and SIMPLE to replace the carburetor with a new one. I’ve done that for several saws that sat unused for several years when I was ill and it made them run like new. (I like to take the old carb to a chainsaw shop to make sure I get an identical replacement - there are too many chances to get the wrong carb when buying online.)

The best thing I’ve done as a small engine owner/user was buy a good book on small engine repair. It covers specifics of almost all chainsaw brands and tells how to debug and fix the most common things that can go wrong. One older Stihl was giving me problems and it turned out the coil gap needed adjusted.

That’s all I can think of right now…

JKJ
 
One more thing about chainsaws - if someone has an old chainsaw that is hard to start or doesn’t seem to have full power, even with new gas (and no leaks in the fuel pickup hoses, clean air and fuel pickup filters, etc - ALWAYS clean dirt and sawdust from around the filler caps before removing them), it is inexpensive and SIMPLE to replace the carburetor with a new one. I’ve done that for several saws that sat unused for several years when I was ill and it made them run like new. (I like to take the old carb to a chainsaw shop to make sure I get an identical replacement - there are too many chances to get the wrong carb when buying online.)

That’s all I can think of right now…

JKJ
I don't suppose you've run across those same machines that carburetor was not the fix, but cleaning out the spark arrestor or plugged muffler was... :) (they start up , seem to run fine, give 'em some throttle and they fall on their faces, figuratively speaking..)

(I also religiously replace fuel LINES with fuel filters and air filters when doing annual saw maintenance , or at least every other year - fuel lines can and will rot out from the inside due to modern fuels and those tiny flakes of black "powder" you end up finding in dirty carburetors - that's fuel lines coming apart... )

Plus, not always inexpensive to replace carburetor with a new one (Depends on the model & make - some carburetors can get into the hundreds of dollars.. Tillotson carbs are pricey, so are many of the Walbros used on Dolmar/Makita...there isn't always a cheap chinese clone to replace them..)

but that's leaning off topic - I'm familiar with the bar rail closer press you mention (Mine had spacers for .050, .058 and .063 gauge bars) so you could re-close bar rails , which were then dressed (flat platform on a small grinder squared to side of wheel) and sharp edges filed away. As for sharpening chains, I do my own on grinder nowadays , but back when I did it as a service I hand filed all my chains (I could do them just as fast if not faster than a shop with a chain grinder) but as I regularly sharpen my chains (even before they really need it) I pretty much never had to worry about the "short" cutters... Anyhoo......
 
I don't suppose you've run across those same machines that carburetor was not the fix, but cleaning out the spark arrestor or plugged muffler was...

Yes, familiar with that.The carb problem usually allows sputtering but not starting/running.

I’ve disassembled and repaired some, but the very small engines (chainsaw/string trimmers/leaf blowers) have just gotten too tedious for me, need new parts. Larger (motorcycle, 4-wheeler, generators, etc) are usually easy. Easier for me to replace the little ones, and cheaper in time invested and reduced frustration level.

Most of the small carbs I’ve replaced for Stihl chainsaws were around $30 or so from my local Stihl dealer. They were identical to those removed, down to the markings.

BTW, speaking working on carbs, I like to start the grandkids early.
alex_carb.jpg

JKJ
 
A coworker gave me a few 12" tall, 15" diameter pieces of sopping wet, heavy-as-concrete apple wood this week. Yesterday I put my Hundred-Dollar-Wonder Oregon CS1500 corded electric chain saw to the ultimate test, cutting the rounds into half circles, ripping with the grain. In the end, it worked admirably. A bit slower than what my ol' Stihl Farm Boss would have done, but I did it inside my garage on a rainy day without any 2-stroke smoke to inhale. Like any chainsaw, when ripping with the grain, the bottom chip discharge quickly clogs with ribbon shavings, so literally about every 10 seconds I had to stop and pull the clog out of the chute. Takes about 1.5 seconds, pfft.

Anyway, last fall I helped my neighbor by using the saw to cut down a 6-pack clump of 6-7" diameter, 30' tall silver maple. Zip-zip-zip-zip... easy. But, I neglected to give the saw a thorough once over after that day, and yesterday it let me know by tossing off the (properly tensioned) chain. No injury to me or the chain, but it forced me to stop and examine the saw closely.

I found the chain groove of the bar, and the front sprocket area, was very gunked up with oily sawdust. And although I learned last year that chain tension must be continuously watched, and tweaked as needed, I think that bar gunk (see the paper towel mess, all from the bar chain groove) was leading to the derailment. Even the built-in round sharpening stone was caked with oily dust, I scraped it clean with a dental pick. It goes without saying (uh-huh) that any saw needs to be carefully and regularly cleaned, maintained, and adjusted, but this saw probably can't handle the, uh, deferred maintenance that a big gas Stihl, Husky, etc. can handle. It's a light weight saw with a smaller profile chain. It punches WAY above its weight class, but it needs to be treated more carefully and deliberately than the bigger gas machines. I still heartily recommend this saw for in-shop/garage and yard use. I am very pleased with it overall.

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I agree wit the need for frequent cleaning with these hundred-dollar specials, Steve. I take mine apart and blow it out after every use. Seems to be working so far.
 
About chainsaw bars and other things.

I always carry a small tool that:
- checks for proper depth gauge height
- has a sharpening angle guide
- cleans gunk from the bar groove

A few comments:

The bar groove may also need adjustment from time to time. If it gets pinched in a tree, it can be widened with a screw driver. If it gets TOO wide, the chain will be sloppy in the groove and can tilt from side to side - can lead to sloppy cuts and accelerate bar and chain wear. A sloppy bar groove can lead to cutting a curve or angle through the log instead of making a straight cut. I recently watched a guy make one curved cut after another - his chain was loose in the bar groove AND was hanging down from the bottom of the bar due to insufficient tension.

I have a special adjustable tool with a rollers and a handle that can be pushed down the groove and squeeze a groove that is too wide to compensate for wear.

Also, the edges of the groove can wear and become quite sharp, leading to wear and a possible cuts on the hand. The edges of the bar should be dressed with a flat file when needed.

Also, many know this but if not: the bar should be flipped over occasionally, after several sharpenings and when a new chain is mounted. This will even out the bar edge wear and make the bar work better and last longer.

Always check and adjust the chain tension - I’ve see too many cutting with the tension too loose and the chain hanging down a bit from the bottom of the bar. Note that as the chain stretches, it can space out the teeth and accelerate the wear on the sprocket. Inspect the sprocket periodically - they are not too expensive to replace.

I NEVER let a shop sharpen a chain. They set the machine to the shortest tooth and grind all teeth to match. It doesn’t hurt anything for some teeth to be different length. I have a good benchtop electric sharpener and sharpen each tooth to what it needs, not necessarily to equal lengths. (For example, hitting steel or a rock can damage the point on just some teeth but not others - no need to sharpen away good steel in undamaged teeth to make them all even. Even a missing tooth or two won’t decrease the ability to cut a log.

For the best and fasted cutting, make sure to adjust the heights of the depth gauges as the teeth are reduced in length by sharpening. If tool high, they will prevent the teeth from properly biting into the wood and the saw won’t cut like it used too, even if the teeth are very sharp.
I know a guy who would take his saw to a local shop for sharpening. Not only did the shop not check or adjust the depth gauges, the guy sharpening chains in that shop didn’t even know about the depth gauges. After several sharpenings, the depth gauge heights kept the saw from cutting - they told the guy the chain was worn out and sold him a new one. I took his last old chain, adjusted the depth gauges, and it cut like a dream!

One more thing about chainsaws - if someone has an old chainsaw that is hard to start or doesn’t seem to have full power, even with new gas (and no leaks in the fuel pickup hoses, clean air and fuel pickup filters, etc - ALWAYS clean dirt and sawdust from around the filler caps before removing them), it is inexpensive and SIMPLE to replace the carburetor with a new one. I’ve done that for several saws that sat unused for several years when I was ill and it made them run like new. (I like to take the old carb to a chainsaw shop to make sure I get an identical replacement - there are too many chances to get the wrong carb when buying online.)

The best thing I’ve done as a small engine owner/user was buy a good book on small engine repair. It covers specifics of almost all chainsaw brands and tells how to debug and fix the most common things that can go wrong. One older Stihl was giving me problems and it turned out the coil gap needed adjusted.

That’s all I can think of right now…

JKJ
Do you have a recommendation for "a good book on small engine repair"? specifically with chainsaw info.
Thanks
 
Do you have a recommendation for "a good book on small engine repair"? specifically with chainsaw info.
Thanks
There's lots of excellent books out there.. Unlike the engine manufacturers (Briggs, Kohler, the now-defunct Tecumseh) which have freely downloadable PDF engine manuals, Chainsaw makers don't really have much in the way of repair books (They do have tech reference, tech training, Shop Manuals, etc but most are Dealer exclusive stuff..) But most chainsaws (and weed eaters, power blowers, etc) all run on the same 2-stroke basics and It is the basics that you're most likely wanting (with the basics mastered, the rest is pretty easy) I can recommend 2 Authors (I've been a professional small engine tech since 1983..) Harry Senn has a book on 2-stroke engines (ISBN 1631268627) and Paul Dempsy (A 2-stroke book he did I can recommend ISBN: 0071625399 )

Unfortunately most are out of print... but they can be had at used book sites or even maybe some libraries might have them (Which is why I listed ISBN numbers), Plus There are quite a few forums (including the one I built ) where you can still get excellent specific advice as well (and some you can get service manuals for specific brands and models for the asking, free) I won't link the forum here but anyone interested can always PM me for a link.
If you can understand things like venturi effects (Straw analogies out the wazoo there) vacuum, pressure, etc., then it's really easy to learn 2-cycle (and most other internal combustion engine) theory and operation.
 
Brian ......Just took a look on Amazon and the Senn book is there, but they want $90 for it. Did not order.
The Dempsy book is there....new copy ....$19. Used ones for a few dollars less. I ordered a copy.
I need basic instruction on small engine repair. I am getting better at it, but always room for improvement.
Thanks.
 
Brian ......Just took a look on Amazon and the Senn book is there, but they want $90 for it. Did not order.
The Dempsy book is there....new copy ....$19. Used ones for a few dollars less. I ordered a copy.
I need basic instruction on small engine repair. I am getting better at it, but always room for improvement.
Thanks.
Cool. as far as the very basics , the very first thing I try to teach to someone (I've done apprentices under my training in my career) is: It's really simple 4 words - Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. If any one of those four is missing from the equation, the engine won't run. a few years ago I ran into one of them, he said that those 4 words are still "stuck" in his head when he goes to start a diagnostic... (Air cleaner and inlet, gaskets, etc, piston & valves , Ignition System, and Exhaust - a lot of techs sometimes forget about Exhaust - if it can't breathe out, it can't breathe...) after that it's just a matter of understanding how the systems work (and work together), and approaching troubleshooting in a very step by step manner (never assume anything, including the idea that a new part is "good"..)
 
Fuel, compression, spark...that's the recipe for success. I consider chainsaws similar to dogs...a dog that can't eat table scraps and stay outside isn't a dog for me. Similarly, a chainsaw that can't stand to be dirty from a day of work doesn't make it in my stable... and I have a dozen or so pretty tough saws. My MAC Super 250's are favorites.

Tim
 
We always said it like this:

If it has proper fuel-air mixture
If it has compression,
if it has spark at right time
If it has open exhaust…

It HAS to run - it don’t have no choice. :)

Fixed so many engines over the years with these points, eliminating one at a time.. I once bought a motorcycle from a neighbor for $1 - he’d tried for years to get it fixed and no one could. If 15 minutes or so I was running it up and down the street in front of his house. I just checked off the four points and corrected the fuel problem. I asked it he wanted it back and he just laughed.

One of our airplanes lost power. (scary when you’re the one flying it). Was a compression problem burned up intake valves.

Most of the chainsaws I worked on had the fuel/air problem (carb) but one had a spark/timing problem - slipped magneto.

JKJ
 
I NEVER let a shop sharpen a chain. They set the machine to the shortest tooth and grind all teeth to match. It doesn’t hurt anything for some teeth to be different length. I have a good benchtop electric sharpener and sharpen each tooth to what it needs, not necessarily to equal lengths. (For example, hitting steel or a rock can damage the point on just some teeth but not others - no need to sharpen away good steel in undamaged teeth to make them all even. Even a missing tooth or two won’t decrease the ability to cut a log.
I have to disagree with this. If you are filing by hand this approach makes some sense, but a chain grinder is so much faster and more consistent that taking back all the teeth to match the worst one is the way to go in my opinion. Uneven teeth tend to make the chain bounce around in the cut and make a wider kerf. Whatever you do, keep the raker height consistent for each tooth. Chains cut most effectively and efficiently when every tooth has the same projection and is carrying the same load. I take several chains to the woods and grind the dull ones in a batch. Chains aren't that expensive, so I would rather replace one than run it with uneven teeth.

Saw chains are rough cutters compared to turning gouges but the same principles apply. People often force a dull chain and get similar results to using a dull gouge.
 
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A coworker gave me a few 12" tall, 15" diameter pieces of sopping wet, heavy-as-concrete apple wood this week. Yesterday I put my Hundred-Dollar-Wonder Oregon CS1500 corded electric chain saw to the ultimate test, cutting the rounds into half circles, ripping with the grain. In the end, it worked admirably. A bit slower than what my ol' Stihl Farm Boss would have done, but I did it inside my garage on a rainy day without any 2-stroke smoke to inhale. Like any chainsaw, when ripping with the grain, the bottom chip discharge quickly clogs with ribbon shavings, so literally about every 10 seconds I had to stop and pull the clog out of the chute. Takes about 1.5 seconds, pfft.

Anyway, last fall I helped my neighbor by using the saw to cut down a 6-pack clump of 6-7" diameter, 30' tall silver maple. Zip-zip-zip-zip... easy. But, I neglected to give the saw a thorough once over after that day, and yesterday it let me know by tossing off the (properly tensioned) chain. No injury to me or the chain, but it forced me to stop and examine the saw closely.

I found the chain groove of the bar, and the front sprocket area, was very gunked up with oily sawdust. And although I learned last year that chain tension must be continuously watched, and tweaked as needed, I think that bar gunk (see the paper towel mess, all from the bar chain groove) was leading to the derailment. Even the built-in round sharpening stone was caked with oily dust, I scraped it clean with a dental pick. It goes without saying (uh-huh) that any saw needs to be carefully and regularly cleaned, maintained, and adjusted, but this saw probably can't handle the, uh, deferred maintenance that a big gas Stihl, Husky, etc. can handle. It's a light weight saw with a smaller profile chain. It punches WAY above its weight class, but it needs to be treated more carefully and deliberately than the bigger gas machines. I still heartily recommend this saw for in-shop/garage and yard use. I am very pleased with it overall.

==============================================================
I'm love my CS1500. Great Saw. My Stile gas powered one is continually jealous as I use the Oregon almost all of the time. but I remove the cover frequently to clean it with my compressed air, especially because most of the wood I cut is green. never thrown a chain and the self sharpening chain mechanism really works!
 
I have to disagree with this. If you are filing by hand this approach makes some sense, but a chain grinder is so much faster and more consistent that taking back all the teeth to match the worst one is the way to go in my opinion. Uneven teeth tend to make the chain bounce around in the cut and make a wider kerf.

I will sharpen by hand when necessary but normally use a good chain grinder on the bench in my shop. I bought a cheap one first then gave it away when I got a better one. Yes, it’s fast. However, I grind each tooth individually for what is needed. Note that it’s important use the right wheel and shape the grinding wheel properly before sharpening, and assure both angles are right for the chain and the type of cut, something that I’ve noticed some shops don’t do, whether from laziness or lack of understanding. There’s a reason the chain grinders have those adjustments and angle scales.

The sharpening guy at one nearby shop apparently was given that job even though had no experience - “easy, just do this” - and most customers never know My friend with a tree-cutting service is one who does know. difference. When faced with a chain problem, instead of letting the shop down the hill work on one of his chains he’ll just buy a new chain and deal with the other later when he get’s home. As I get older, I let him do most of the cutting.

It’s good that we can disagree. I disagree with taking back all teeth to the same length. For one thing, it unnecessarily shortens the useful life of a chain. A chain will cut fine if one or more of the teeth are missing. Some people even remove teeth, such as making a skip or partial skip chain from a normal chain. (Skip chains purchased specifically for large cutting such as chain mills are usually ground differently)

I have tested chains with even and uneven teeth and have found no difference in the cut - no bouncing around, no wider kerf. There are other things that can cause an uneven cut, wide kerf, and curved instead of straight cuts. One of the most common is a problem with the bar or the bar slot. Some people don’t even know to flip the bar, some use too much force, don’t lubricate and clean the chain properly, operate with improper tension (don’t adjust when the chain gets hot), or operate with worn sprockets. I’d have to examine the problem saw to evaluate.

I don’t claim to be an expert - I only have 7 chain saws at the moment. I’ve sharpened chains for a lot of friends and neighbors though, some who came back and told me their saw never cut better.

I may have mentioned this before: one book that helped me a lot is the Good Woodcutter’s Guide:
It has clear and wise info from an experienced person with a big emphasis on safety, covering things like:
  • How to use the right chain saw
  • How to find the best dealer
  • Chain and saw maintenance
  • Safe techniques for felling, limbing, and bucking
  • Tips for productive, sustainable woodlot management

JKJ
 
We always said it like this:

If it has proper fuel-air mixture
If it has compression,
if it has spark at right time
If it has open exhaust…

It HAS to run - it don’t have no choice. :)

Fixed so many engines over the years with these points, eliminating one at a time.. I once bought a motorcycle from a neighbor for $1 - he’d tried for years to get it fixed and no one could. If 15 minutes or so I was running it up and down the street in front of his house. I just checked off the four points and corrected the fuel problem. I asked it he wanted it back and he just laughed.

One of our airplanes lost power. (scary when you’re the one flying it). Was a compression problem burned up intake valves.

Most of the chainsaws I worked on had the fuel/air problem (carb) but one had a spark/timing problem - slipped magneto.

JKJ

My zero turn mower wouldn't start. Spark? Check. Fuel pump working? Check. Air intake clean? Check. Still nothing. I needed to get it on the trailer, so I squirted some gas in the intake and it started right up. That's when I noticed the throttle cable was broken. I guess I should have started with a more basic inspection. :rolleyes:
 
My zero turn mower wouldn't start. Spark? Check. Fuel pump working? Check. Air intake clean? Check. Still nothing. I needed to get it on the trailer, so I squirted some gas in the intake and it started right up. That's when I noticed the throttle cable was broken. I guess I should have started with a more basic inspection. :rolleyes:

Ha, I hate when that happens! Plenty of good fuel, just need go get it into the engine!

With small gasoline engines (generator, pressure washer, go-cart, 4-wheeler size) I found the biggest problem was when people left old gas in them for a long time and restricted the jet with varnish.
Years ago when one screaming “go-faster” motorcycle quit I couldn’t get it started - discovered that a hole burned through the top of the piston caused a real problem with compression. :)

My zero turns are both 25hp diesel - I had one sputter and quit in use, couldn’t figure it out where it quit. Hauled it 1/4 mile back to the shop to find a clogged fuel filter problem. In 20 years of use that was the only failure I can blame on myself - neglected to change the filter during maintenance, maybe because I’ve never had a clogged fuel filter on anything. The newer one has dual tanks and three filters so I keep a supply in the drawer now.

Oh, another thing I’ve found which stopped a zero-turn twice - mowing brush under a stick knocked out a connector to the seat switch causing the machine to think I wasn’t in the seat! Needed a bit of guard added.

Rats. It’s time to change fluids and such on the tractor now - it takes over 10 gallons of hydraulic fluid and a lot of crawling around underneath, time to look at the sawmill too. My wife won’t let me in the house with the smelly clothes.

As I get older I enjoy working on engines and equipment less and less. For the 1000-hr maintenance on the excavator I’m going to haul it to the shop and pay them to do it… (don’t tell anyone)

JKJ
 
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