Oneway VERSA-MOUNTâ„¢ UNIVERSAL MOUNTING SYSTEM

[Chuck Barone]

I am trying to decide whether to buy Oneway's traditional faceplates or their Versa-Mount Universal Mounting System: http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=33&Itemid=2
I can't find any reviews of the Versa-Mount so wondering if anyone here has one or is familiar with it and if so what has been your experience with it versus tradition faceplates. Thanks! Chuck

 

[Bill Boehme]

Get the regular faceplates.

 

[Odie]

Sorry, but I haven't tried the versa-mount either.

I tend to think similarly to Bill, in that a good solid faceplate will be the best bet. (With the exception of aluminum faceplates) I can tell you that everything I've purchased from Oneway has been very high quality, and well worth the money. I have a couple of the Oneway faceplates, and they're top notch.....also 3 chucks, bowl steady, spindle steady, and several of their tool rests.

To my thinking, the multiple faceplate rings and adaptor kits introduces one more element of possible error. There is no error with a regular faceplate, as long as it remains attached until done.

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

Here is an earlier thread about the Versa Mount: http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/sho...m-opinions&p=98524&highlight=Oneway#post98524

And, here is a follow-up: http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/sho...r-using-it&p=98759&highlight=Oneway#post98759

 

[Brian Myers]

Good option if have an older lathe with a spindle that is not one of today's standards and Oneway makes stronghold adapter for it.

 

[Chuck Barone]

Thanks guys for the helpful feedback. One advantage of the Versa-Mount is that it much cheaper buying multiple faceplates for leaving on unfinished work which seems to be a fairly common practice. If I get the Versa-Mount I will report back. Thanks again for feedback. Chuck

 

[Owen Lowe]

Thanks guys for the helpful feedback. One advantage of the Versa-Mount is that it much cheaper buying multiple faceplates for leaving on unfinished work which seems to be a fairly common practice. If I get the Versa-Mount I will report back. Thanks again for feedback. Chuck

I have used the Vicmarc rings for a pair of turnings that I wanted to ensure matched in size, profile, and added components - alternating between the two as I constructed them. Perhaps these would suit your purposes at less cost if you already have a scroll chuck...
http://www.vicmarc.com/default.asp?contentID=568

 

[Chuck Barone]

I have used the Vicmarc rings for a pair of turnings that I wanted to ensure matched in size, profile, and added components - alternating between the two as I constructed them. Perhaps these would suit your purposes at less cost if you already have a scroll chuck...
http://www.vicmarc.com/default.asp?contentID=568

Owen, will the Vicmarc rings work on a Stronghold or a Supervnova2 chuck?

 

[Bill Boehme]

Owen, will the Vicmarc rings work on a Stronghold or a Supervnova2 chuck?

They are designed to have full circle contact on the Vicmarc dovetail jaws. On any other jaws, there will be either four or eight contact points. If you are coring or hollowing then that doesn't sound like a good idea. Additionally, don't try it with the profiled jaws. Personally, I would not be in favor of doing that. I would get the ones that fit properly. Something else to think about that I have only recently recognized is that the Oneway jaws aren't exactly centered. I don't know about the Nova jaws. Under normal circumstances that is not the least bit important, but I have been doing some turnings that require reverse mounting a piece several times where alignment is critical.

 

[Odie]

They are designed to have full circle contact on the Vicmarc dovetail jaws. On any other jaws, there will be either four or eight contact points. If you are coring or hollowing then that doesn't sound like a good idea. Additionally, don't try it with the profiled jaws. Personally, I would not be in favor of doing that. I would get the ones that fit properly. Something else to think about that I have only recently recognized is that the Oneway jaws aren't exactly centered. I don't know about the Nova jaws. Under normal circumstances that is not the least bit important, but I have been doing some turnings that require reverse mounting a piece several times where alignment is critical.

Bill.....I don't understand what you mean by "Oneway jaws aren't exactly centered"......explain please.

You didn't say, so you may be doing this anyway, but the best way to remount is to mark a spot on your turning that corresponds to a point on the chuck for exact positioning a subsequent time. There is no way to remount a turning with absolute perfection using chucks, or faceplates.

I'm almost exclusively using screw center faceplates, but I've got six of them in my most used 3" size. There are times when I have 3-4 turnings in progress, but I've never run out of them. The most "work in progress" faceplates I've ever had was four, I think. Having a quantity of quality steel faceplates isn't any more expensive than a good chuck, so, looking it that way, the expense doesn't seem unreasonable.

ko



Brrrrrr.......Baby, it's cold outside!.....below zero here in Montana this morning.

 

[hockenbery]

Something else to think about that I have only recently recognized is that the Oneway jaws aren't exactly centered. I don't know about the Nova jaws. Under normal circumstances that is not the least bit important, but I have been doing some turnings that require reverse mounting a piece several times where alignment is critical.

Bill,
Your ONEWAY jaws should be near perfectly centered. I have 3 strongholds, a talon, and a medium Vicmarc.
They are all about equal on being true to center.

I get a near perfect match on boxes lid and base if I have both parts with tenons using the Oneways.
Those are end grain.
Christmas ornament finial are always true for when go from between centers to the chuck,

That said when I turn bowls or hollow forms I always true the outside when it is in the chuck. Just because the tenon may compress. The wood might move if it is green.

I did have one chuck dropped by a student. It bent a jaw. Things were off. When I put the chuck face down on the lathe bed one jaw face was out of alignment.
New jaws fixed it.

Al

 

[Pete Blair]

Versa mount

I looked at these as well Chuck I really love my Oneway chuck but have three Nova chucks and am going to purchase a bunch of rings that are designed for them. One of my issues is that I have one Nova that fits my mini and this system will allow me to move many items to the mini and back with out tying up my chucks. As you say, if you go that way please let us know how things work out.

 

[Chuck Barone]

Carter Face-Off System

Thanks Pete for additional info. Haven't checked out the rings for Nova but did find Carter FACE-OFFâ„¢ modular face plate system, here is the link: http://www.carterproducts.com/lathe...he-carter-face-off-modular-face-plate-system# Anyone have any experience with this system?

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill.....I don't understand what you mean by "Oneway jaws aren't exactly centered"......explain please.

You didn't say, so you may be doing this anyway, but the best way to remount is to mark a spot on your turning that corresponds to a point on the chuck for exact positioning a subsequent time. There is no way to remount a turning with absolute perfection using chucks, or faceplates.

I'm almost exclusively using screw center faceplates, but I've got six of them in my most used 3" size. There are times when I have 3-4 turnings in progress, but I've never run out of them. The most "work in progress" faceplates I've ever had was four, I think. Having a quantity of quality steel faceplates isn't any more expensive than a good chuck, so, looking it that way, the expense doesn't seem unreasonable.

ko



Brrrrrr.......Baby, it's cold outside!.....below zero here in Montana this morning.

Bill,
Your ONEWAY jaws should be near perfectly centered. I have 3 strongholds, a talon, and a medium Vicmarc.
They are all about equal on being true to center.

I get a near perfect match on boxes lid and base if I have both parts with tenons using the Oneways.
Those are end grain.
Christmas ornament finial are always true for when go from between centers to the chuck,

That said when I turn bowls or hollow forms I always true the outside when it is in the chuck. Just because the tenon may compress. The wood might move if it is green.

I did have one chuck dropped by a student. It bent a jaw. Things were off. When I put the chuck face down on the lathe bed one jaw face was out of alignment.
New jaws fixed it.

Al

Odie and Al, yes I do know all the tricks to keep things aligned when removing and remounting a piece on a chuck. I carefully mark things and number which jaw goes where. I have considered some other possibilities such as wearing of the scroll and slight crushing o of wood fibers on the tenon. The error that I am talking about is very tiny, but when dealing with something like an inlay on the edge of a large diameter turning, even a very small error gets magnified at the outer edge of a large platter.

I need to clarify what I am talking about. It is not radial error. It is a slight shift in angle that causes wobble.

This turning is one that requires things to be very precisely aligned.



I have also tried truing up the tenon before reversing and that isn't any better. This thing has frustrated me so much that I ordered a Vicmarc 100 chuck today to see if that would help. I currently have a Vicmarc 120, but it is too big for what I am doing here. I have also put a Talon chuck on both sides and left them there. That works fairly well except that they get in the way some of the time. I haven't tried a glue block and faceplate on both sides, but I think that would be the most repeatable solution.

It's cold here too, Odie -- maybe even below 40° F. Brrrrrrrrrrrr
I even considered putting on a jacket.

 

[hockenbery]

Bill, Those are really nice pieces and you do need for that rim to run true to get an even look to the inlay pattern.

Well you have are great plan.. How to accomplish it? I have two ideas that could work.

On a large platter it is likely that you would have some minor wood movement. If the wood is moving you can minimize the effect by re centering between centers.

You know the rim was in a circle in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the lathe when it was last turned.

The rim may no longer be a true circle or in the same plane. The method below will get the rim rim back into the orthogonal plane or as close to it as possible if there was wood movement.

Take the pin out of the tailstock center. Put the platter in the chuck with the jaws loose enough to shift the piece a little.

Put small pieces of tape near the two end grain edges and near the two side grain edges.

Set the tool rest parallel to the ways shift the tail center until the two end grain edges are the same distance to the tool rest and pass the same spot on the tool rest. Mark the spot where they pass the tool rest with a piece of tape on the tool rest.

Then shift the tail center until the two side grain edges pass as close to the marked point on the tool rest as you can get them. When you do the shifting have the two end grain aligned edges parallel to the floor and perpendicular to the ways. And shift the piece so they remain parallel to the floor and perpendicular to the ways. The goal here is to move the two side grain edges as close to same plane as the two endgrain edges without moving the end grain edges out of the plane.
Not always easy so you may have a lot of repeat trials.

Check all the alignments. You may have to realight the endgrains if you moved the off center.
This whole process can take a while. When everything is centered tighten the tailstock against the chuck to hold the center position. Then turn the rim.

This method will distributes any out of round rim fairly evenly. If the rim is round and in the same plane it will be perfectly centered. I use a similar method for aligning dried bowls for returning.

You can check the rim position by clamping a laser pointer to the tool rest. Point it at the edge of the rim parallel to the ways. This will show the out of roundness.
Point it at the rim top perpendicular to the ways. This will show the out of plane movement if any. If the rim is out of plane the rim may still look great to anyone but you since the transitions will be distributed and the opposite side will look identical.

If wood is moving then try to rethink the process order if it makes sense to do so.
The idea would be to somehow make the rim and its inlay first while the platter is thick and unlikely to move.
Then turn the platter to the rim. This may not be possible. but maybe you can come up with a sequence...
If you could turn the bottom, put it in a chuck, turn the rim, set the inlay, turn the inlay, turn the top add the color,and turnout the bowl without taking it off the lathe you should get it perfect. I suspect you need a few days to work the inlay.

Lastly the concept of doing the inlayed rim first is more risky in the sense that you are doing the most time consuming work before you know if your platter blank is any good. You might find a nail, void, ugly wood when you turn down the top.

Al

 

[Bill Boehme]

Thanks for your detailed reply, Al. The tape trick sounds like a great idea. Wood does move as it is turned, even if it is dry just because figured wood has built in stresses that are being unbalanced as wood is removed. So the wood moves to get things back in balance. Highly figured maple blanks are one of the few types of wood that I will willingly pay money for. I keep a record of its drying progress and then let it dry about an additional six months or more.

The suggest process that you describe is basically how I do it. I try to get the critical part of turning done fairly quickly. I can usually finish the inlay in a day or two. As soon as that is done I shape the top and bottom sides of the rim without moving the chuck. If there is any wood movement, it can be a problem at this step.

Here is a shot where I have just turned it to get it smooth and balanced and then turned a groove for the wire inlay.



When I took a class from Nick Cook many years ago, he said tongue in cheek to never make that last cut, but instead to stop at the next to last cut.Sometimes I have gotten myself into a fine mess by ignoring that sage advice and deciding at some point down the road that the shape would look a little better if I were to go back and just ever-so-slightly refine the outer edge. Well, it sounded like a good idea until I discovered that it really wasn't. Then I have to shift gears and go into recovery mode. C'est la vie.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Owen, will the Vicmarc rings work on a Stronghold or a Supervnova2 chuck?

I tested this out with my Stronghold and Talon chucks (w/#2 profiled jaws) and it works just fine. There’s a slight lip on the outer edge of the jaws that secures it in the dovetail of the ring. Sorry it took me a while to get back to you - I haven’t used the rings since I got my Oneway chucks a few years back. I wouldn’t hesitate to use this setup myself.