I just received my oneway talon and have some bowl blanks 6x11" black walnut and magnolia both blanks are quite heavy how large of a solid wood bowl would you turn on a talon or should I return it for the stronghold
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oneway talon 4 jaw chuck
- Thread starter Sean Boyle
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Sean,
I think the question is how large of a bowl are you comfortable turning?
My assumptions you have the #2 jaws which close to a 1.75 opening.
The talon can hold an 11" bowl with a 2.25" tenon for rough turning
When dry the tenon can be trued and be bigger than 1.75.
Walnut is prone to splitting along the grain lines. So any catch is likely to break the tenon.
If you don't get catches you should be fine.
If you are getting catches use a faceplate with #12 sheet metal screws that go into the wood an inch.
A lot of folks on the forum have a few decades of experience so what experienced turners can do safely may not be safe for you.
The talon can do the job on a 12" bowl.
For larger bowls in the 14" and up I like larger jaws like #3 on a strong hold.
Work safely,
Al
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I have the bowl currently mounted on a 6" face plate as you said with number 12x3/4 screws I have balanced the bowl as well turned the outer shape I now want to cut in a tenon so I can reverse the bowl to put on the talon for hollowing. So far no catches doing the outer shaping (new Chisels Happy Happy ) my concern is if this size chuck is sutable for this size piece. I have no reservation of turning a piece this large
any feed back on turning magnolia looks like it has a yellow greeninsh color
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I would use a faceplate or wait for the stronghold. I would be concerned with the leverage on a 6" thick bowl that size with the talon. The Talon instructions provide no guidelines. The Supernova2 with a larger #2 jaws is recommended for no more than a 12" by 4" thick bowl according to their instructions.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I have a Vicmarc 100 chuck that is about the same size as the the talon. I have turned up to 19" 6" deep with it. I would suggest going with a larger chuck for this size if you can but it can be done.
A few questions
Sean,
Bear in mind that I am a beginning wood turner. I have turned some fair sized chunks of metal though. I tried to skim through your old posts but didn't find what lathe you have, how is it attached to bench or stand and floor, how stiff is your floor, how rigid is your whole set-up is what I am asking, how slow can you turn, quite a few unanswered questions or at least I didn't see the answers. I think it might be reasonable to know which #2 jaws you have too since there are at least three variations.
You have the wood balanced fairly well now and the Talon can handle a balanced load far better than one that isn't and this depends a great deal on how stiff your lathe and it's mounting is too. Also how slow you can turn. With a solid lathe, being able to bring the tailstock up and turn at moderate speed you are in a considerably different position than a lathe with a fairly high minimum speed that isn't as stable as it could be.
If you can do it easily posting a picture of your lathe including mount and bowl might help the people that know more than I do help you. I don't see any indication of the actual weight of the bowl or how much of that weight has been removed either. Not much gain from the weight reduction since the remaining weight is in the worst possible place other than if it was unbalanced but all weight removed helps some.
I have reached in by the headstock and taken a few pounds off of the inside of the bowl before reversing it. I don't know if that is a good practice or not but I'm sure some of the other posters in the thread can comment on that, that does take some of the weight off that will be hanging out the furthest.
Just some thoughts,
Hu
Sean,
Bear in mind that I am a beginning wood turner. I have turned some fair sized chunks of metal though. I tried to skim through your old posts but didn't find what lathe you have, how is it attached to bench or stand and floor, how stiff is your floor, how rigid is your whole set-up is what I am asking, how slow can you turn, quite a few unanswered questions or at least I didn't see the answers. I think it might be reasonable to know which #2 jaws you have too since there are at least three variations.
You have the wood balanced fairly well now and the Talon can handle a balanced load far better than one that isn't and this depends a great deal on how stiff your lathe and it's mounting is too. Also how slow you can turn. With a solid lathe, being able to bring the tailstock up and turn at moderate speed you are in a considerably different position than a lathe with a fairly high minimum speed that isn't as stable as it could be.
If you can do it easily posting a picture of your lathe including mount and bowl might help the people that know more than I do help you. I don't see any indication of the actual weight of the bowl or how much of that weight has been removed either. Not much gain from the weight reduction since the remaining weight is in the worst possible place other than if it was unbalanced but all weight removed helps some.
I have reached in by the headstock and taken a few pounds off of the inside of the bowl before reversing it. I don't know if that is a good practice or not but I'm sure some of the other posters in the thread can comment on that, that does take some of the weight off that will be hanging out the furthest.
Just some thoughts,
Hu
Sean: I've got both Stronghold and Talon chucks and use both for bowls. I use the Talon with #3 smooth jaws for a lot of work that's 12" or smaller. Larger work goes on the Stronghold, usually with #3 smooth jaws. I use the #2 jaws on the Talon for pieces that are either relatively shallow or smaller than about 10" or so.
I've found the smooth jaws provide a very dependable hold without the worry of splitting the tenon that I've found with the serrated jaws.
I've found the smooth jaws provide a very dependable hold without the worry of splitting the tenon that I've found with the serrated jaws.
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Unless you made a typo, screws that are only three quarters inch long are far too short. They would barely reach through the faceplate. Replace them with screws that are 1¾" long as Al recommended.
Keep your Talon chuck. You will find it far more useful except for turning deep bowls over 16" diameter. For really heavy stuff, a steel faceplate would be the way to go. Also, by the time that you are ready to turn the inside, much of the mass has already been removed if you are concerned about the mass of the block. If catches are your concern, the Stronghold won't offer much additional help in holding.
When you said that you want to "cut in a tenon", I get the impression that you actually want to cut a recess for expansion chucking. At this stage of your experience I would suggest putting a tenon about ⅜" long on the bottom and then turn it away as the last step. You will be less apt to knock the bowl off the lathe with a tenon vs a shallow recess. Whichever holding method you choose, keep the tailstock in place until nearly finished with the interior and the bowl will be much more likely to stay on the lathe if a catch happens.
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If 12" is the capacity of your lathe, keep the talon. If you can swing larger, get the larger chuck. Not because you can't do things with the Talon that are over 12, but because you can do more with larger pieces with larger jaws.
There are techniques available to help out a slightly undersize chuck. Staying between centers until the bowl is nearly hollow is one, proper presentation of the tools is another. Turning at a reasonable rpm and understanding how your chuck works are also important. Don't put any more energy into the game than you require to remove shavings. It is V squared, and you get a much larger kick if you catch turning rapidly. Proper use of your chuck means snug only, no "grip" tightening interior or exterior. Size your tenon or recess to match the first point of circularity on your jaws to get the maximum metal to wood.
Use of a mortise or tenon is up to you. Apparently lot of people who didn't know better tightened their chucks too much and split out the bottom trying a recess. You know better, so not your problem. You'll get the same amount of metal in contact with either method, but more depth in your bowl if you go with a mortise. It's a wedge, so don't overdrive it unless you want things to split. You may also choose to presand and/or decorate the mortise before you reverse, leaving you no extra work to remove anything, which sometimes comes in handy. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/While-The-Glue-Dries.jpg
There are techniques available to help out a slightly undersize chuck. Staying between centers until the bowl is nearly hollow is one, proper presentation of the tools is another. Turning at a reasonable rpm and understanding how your chuck works are also important. Don't put any more energy into the game than you require to remove shavings. It is V squared, and you get a much larger kick if you catch turning rapidly. Proper use of your chuck means snug only, no "grip" tightening interior or exterior. Size your tenon or recess to match the first point of circularity on your jaws to get the maximum metal to wood.
Use of a mortise or tenon is up to you. Apparently lot of people who didn't know better tightened their chucks too much and split out the bottom trying a recess. You know better, so not your problem. You'll get the same amount of metal in contact with either method, but more depth in your bowl if you go with a mortise. It's a wedge, so don't overdrive it unless you want things to split. You may also choose to presand and/or decorate the mortise before you reverse, leaving you no extra work to remove anything, which sometimes comes in handy. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/While-The-Glue-Dries.jpg
Magnolia
I turn lots of Magnolia, from 12'' to 24". It cuts easily and finishes well. It varies in color from yellow to green and can have black streaking and black figure lines. I sell more bowls made of Magnolia than any other wood because it is what people think of when they are here in the South.
I turn lots of Magnolia, from 12'' to 24". It cuts easily and finishes well. It varies in color from yellow to green and can have black streaking and black figure lines. I sell more bowls made of Magnolia than any other wood because it is what people think of when they are here in the South.
I thank you for all the feed back I turned the bowl yesterday and ready for sanding today I got 1 bad catch and it stopped the lathe but the chuck held strong. My last chuck was an cheap one $80.00 no name and it would have never held. You get what you pay for
once again thanks
once again thanks