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I did these a while back to show a friend how I did simple decoration. May have been posted here once.
The time to make grooves or other embellishment is when the piece is circular. To me that means after working the outside, and before I begin the inside. It's a lot less risky then, because you're not going to make a bowl shorter with a too-deep groove, or if you're the kind who uses a scraper to make the groove rather than cutting, you risk no chatter and squirm from a high-friction tactic on a thin rim. So, for what it's worth, the way I do it.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/1-Downhill-First.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/2-Back-Cut.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/3-Two-V-Grooves.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/4-Roll-The-Round.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/5-Back-Roll.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/6-Refine-as-Required.jpg
The gouge is a 5/16 "pointy" grind which I use for hollowing Christmas ornaments. Also sneaks in where space is limited for other uses.
Don't have a lot of pictures of bowls using the beads or grooves, but I did see this in passing.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/7CoupleEdgeGrabs.jpg
I use it on very ordinary utility bowls to provide an outside grip. Popcorn types, mostly.
Apologies for the series, which was made rather quickly as an answer, not at length as a lesson. If you use a steady while cleaning up the inside, only someone with a micrometer will be able to tell if the bowl has ovalled, because the rim will be equal thickness all around, even as your decoration. That's what happens when moisture or stress changes are severe, the bowl goes a bit oval. It's not "runout" because the deviation is on opposing sides.
The time to make grooves or other embellishment is when the piece is circular. To me that means after working the outside, and before I begin the inside. It's a lot less risky then, because you're not going to make a bowl shorter with a too-deep groove, or if you're the kind who uses a scraper to make the groove rather than cutting, you risk no chatter and squirm from a high-friction tactic on a thin rim. So, for what it's worth, the way I do it.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/1-Downhill-First.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/2-Back-Cut.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/3-Two-V-Grooves.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/4-Roll-The-Round.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/5-Back-Roll.jpg
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/6-Refine-as-Required.jpg
The gouge is a 5/16 "pointy" grind which I use for hollowing Christmas ornaments. Also sneaks in where space is limited for other uses.
Don't have a lot of pictures of bowls using the beads or grooves, but I did see this in passing.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/7CoupleEdgeGrabs.jpg
I use it on very ordinary utility bowls to provide an outside grip. Popcorn types, mostly.
Apologies for the series, which was made rather quickly as an answer, not at length as a lesson. If you use a steady while cleaning up the inside, only someone with a micrometer will be able to tell if the bowl has ovalled, because the rim will be equal thickness all around, even as your decoration. That's what happens when moisture or stress changes are severe, the bowl goes a bit oval. It's not "runout" because the deviation is on opposing sides.