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On a 24" swing lathe

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Mar 20, 2009
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With a between center distance of 19.5 inches would it be comfortable to turn from the tail-stock end with the tail-stock removed to turn bowls hollow forms etc?
 
In my opinion yes, no problems. It may be a little short for one of those concoctions made and sold for hollowing, laser, etc, but never used one and have no intention of using them. May later on, never say never.
 
trunk handles?

It's one I built. http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?10464-My-Newly-Built-Wood-Lathe&highlight=

Sorry, single run custom job😀 I really do like the ergonomics of it though, well aside from taking the tailstock off and putting it back on...



Michael,

If you don't want to do welding or repainting you might consider trunk handles or steamer trunk handles on the tailstock. Don't remember exactly what they are called. They lay flat and project out very little but unlike most flip up handles that pinch your hands they have stops so they come out 90-120 degrees and stop. I think most woodworking suppliers have them. Of course you could make your own too.

I remember reading your thread on that lathe before, very nice!

Hu
 
With a between center distance of 19.5 inches would it be comfortable to turn from the tail-stock end with the tail-stock removed to turn bowls hollow forms etc?

If you use handheld tools for hollowing there is a definite advantage to standing in front of either a short bed or a sliding headstock slid to the end.
If you hollow with a trapped system standing at the end is difficult with most of them.

For bowls not so Much depending on your style and the style of the bowl.
If you turn a lot of deep narrow bowls standing in front will be an advantage.
Or bowls with narrow openings (approaching hollow forms)

If you turn bowls wider than tall with a side ground gouge with the flute up at about 45 degrees with your left hand forward, You can hollow a bowl and never bend over unless your lathe is set too low. On some lathes standing off the end compromises your foot position. If you use the shear cut inside bowls you have to be positioned to the side of the bowl. If you use scrapers inside your bowl this is more comfortable standing in front. If I use one I do lean over a bit using it. If I were using the scraper more than just a couple of minutes I would move the bowl to the short bed. I rarely use scrapers on bowls.

This is not a scientific study but we had a series of demonstrations this weekend on a Robust American Beauty with the sliding headstock.

Five people turned bowls. Their lathes at home are ONEWAY, 3 powermatics, Robust AB.
Only one of them moved the headstock to hollow a bowl.
None of them bent over while turning the bowl.

Everyone enjoyed using the tilt away for the tailstock.

With 19" between centers plus the footprint of the tailstock,
I would say turning over the end is a long reach for most turners unless it is a hollow form or possibly a tall narrow bowl.
Hollowing is much less of a reach. If the legs come out to the end of the lathe you can't stand up against the end of the bed.
We have a ONEWAY 2416. With a 17" outboard. Turning In front of anything on the 17" outboard is easy. The bed is shorter and no legs under its end in the way of positioning your feet. Turning off the end of the lathe itself is only for really tall people. And the legs will be where you want to put your feet.

Al
 
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Burt
I use a Vega 2600 and have non of the problems being talked about. The legs are straight down from the end of the body and I have no issues. The bed is I believe 19"L x 13"W tailstock has fast bolt-on system. Love this lathe for bowls and hollow forms NOT good for spindles at lest not for me.
24" is maybe a little long,but if you have full access around the whole lathe it shouldn't be a problem.Look at the Vega 2600 Bowl lathe and see how it's built.
 
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I believe that the Vega has legs that do not block your toes from moving closer. Some of the older design lathes had basically a pedestal at both ends that did not allow any toe room. Since the toes of my shoes extend nearly eight inches from my shins, that can make a big difference if there is no room to park the dogs.
 
The advantage of using the tailstock is that you divide the shock and vibration loads between the headstock and the tailstock. Without the tailstock, all of that goes directly into the headstock. I wore out the headstock bearings in my old PM3520A in less than 5 years because of not using the tailstock, and turning chain sawn blanks. I have a bandsaw that cuts 16 inch high, so blanks are pretty even before they go on the lathe. On blanks maybe 12 inch diameter and less, I don't use the tailstock. On larger ones, I always do. It isn't to keep things on the lathe, it is to distribute shock loads.

robo hippy
 
Burt
I use a Vega 2600 and have non of the problems being talked about. The legs are straight down from the end of the body and I have no issues. The bed is I believe 19"L x 13"W tailstock has fast bolt-on system. Love this lathe for bowls and hollow forms NOT good for spindles at lest not for me.
24" is maybe a little long,but if you have full access around the whole lathe it shouldn't be a problem.Look at the Vega 2600 Bowl lathe and see how it's built.

Harry
Sheesh they forgot to put the tracks on that tank. Very impressive but I'd need to try one before purchase.
 
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