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oil + how much beeswax?

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
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Location
Belgium
Hi,
it is often written that when you apply an oil on a bowl which will be used for food, some beeswax is adjusted.
Probably to make it a bit harder ...
But how much beeswax is needed compared to the quantity of oil?
I suppose the beeswax and the oil has to be heatened up, mixed and then applied to the bowl?

Thanks - Squirrel
 
I saturate the formed bowl right on the lathe with oil, over nad over until it won't take any more buffing it in. Then I take a chunk of beeswax and hold it against the bowl with the lathe running and the friction oand heat of the rubbing will penetrate the wood and then buff it while it is still on the lathe.
It gives a soft,glowing surface. It will last a long time. You can wipe it with a wet cloth, clean it with a soft rag, maybe in 6 months give it another waxing or so. Gary
 
Bowl Finish

I have done it the same way as Gary. However I was told on another forum that had pictures of 20 year old salad bowls that the finish was a combination of olive oil and bees wax blended together in a double boiler. The mixture can be what ever you want the thicker, the more bees wax, the thinner the more oil and so on. Can be modified later just by putting in the double boiler and adding one or the other. This person only used salads that had an oil and vinegar dressing, she said the commercial dressings bought in a store contain something in them that attacks the finish.
Good Luck,

Dave
 
Bee's Wax/oil

My preference is to work with a paste of the consistantcy of car wax. For the mineral oil I get at the local drug store its about 1:2 or 3.

I don't really think the mixture matters much. Only so much oil will soak in & after the wax seals your work, the rest of the wax get flung to the floor.

Both parts are cheap enough to experiment with.
 
Mahoney's finishes (oil wax)

I bought some of this from? (forgot which place CSUSA?) and it looked fine and firm. During the summer months it was sitting on my finishing table (it might have got to 90-92 a few days), and when I went to use it , it was the consistency of watery oat meal. I called the company and they sent me another. This time it was like that from the get go. Not sure I like it that oily because too much has to be wiped off.
I have made my own with beeswax and Mahoney's walnut oil, (60 oil-40 beeswax) and it was stored in an unheated spare bedroom and it is too hard. If I nuke it a little at least I can get some on a cloth. My next batch I make will be more oily. ( I give one1/2-2 ounce plastic containers of it away with $50+ purchases.
Gretch
 
If you use a non-curing oil, it'll always have the potential to bleed when heated. It's wax "lite" in a way. Heat the wax as if it were oil by double boiler or friction and spare the oil. Keep it in the shade when out selling, and definitely out of the rain. DAMHIKT

Use a curing oil like the walnut or tung and it'll polymerize well enough to keep from bleeding. Then wax the surface if you care to. Not me. Once bitten, twice shy.
 
I like to use a blend of wax, linseed oil and turpentine. depending on what the finished piece is used for I adjust the type of Linseed oil I use. For kitchenware I use the Tried and True Danish Oil Finish in the blend and on the other end I use the varnish oil from the same company. I use a double boiler...I just stick a jar in a kettle with boiling water. Then put in the wax, Turpentine and then the oil. Stir 7 times clockwise and 1 counter clockwise...no that's a potion..sorry. Just make sure you mix it well and then let it cool. I use 3 or 4 coats and then buff it out. For my uses, I use a pint mason jar and about a 1/3 of a cup of each. A funnel is useful and I would do it while the wife is shopping if you use her measuring cups. Oh I would recommend Parafin not beeswax. No open flame heating for those...well less thoughtful.
 

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