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Nova Midi chuck - questions

underdog

underdog

Joined
Oct 5, 2005
Messages
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Location
North Georgia
I finally opened my Christmas present, degreased it, put the jaws on, adjusted them, and put on in the lathe.

I'm pleased that the action is so smooth, and the two handled thing doesn't bother me much. It sure beats working the faceplate scenario...

I also turned my first lidded box! Whoo Hoo! This is gonna be fun!

But I found the instruction manual for the chuck a bit puzzling in places, and downright hilarious in others...

"...so that it excretes equal pressure on all four jaws..."
Click to expand...
🙄
Dang! Sounds like something the dog did in the yard!

Anyway, I wonder how you locate the screw chuck in this thing? It looks as if it could be placed in the jaws several different ways, but the instructions have quite a few errors at this point. Any suggestions?

Also after lining up the jaws, one of them was "twisted" out of square just the slightest bit, and loosening the screws, tightening the jaws and re-tightening the screws did nothing to line it back up again. I think this is why when I chucked up a tenoned piece that it "wobbled" no matter what I did. No real problem, I just turned it true again... It's just that it would be nice if it was square when re-chucked... Any suggestions on this?

Thanks,
 
The screw clamps in-between the inner center surfaces of the chaws at the middle of the chuck. The barrel of the screw is dimensioned to fit into this location perfectly. The face of the jaws then seat against the base of your piece to be turned.

As for misaligned jaws - did you install them in numerical order? Each has a number on the back and they should be placed shoulder to shoulder in numerical sequence. If they are still out of alignment after using the tightening method you describe, they may be faulty and need to be returned and replaced. It is important that they mate properly.

You’ll notice that the jaws only create a perfect circle when opened to a certain point. You should try and size your tenon to this dimension in order to get the best holding power and you’ll find it easier to align your work concentrically too. Also, create a little flat surface that the face of the jaws will rest against around the outside of the tenon. The tenon shouldn’t bottom out into the base of the jaws, rather the jaw’s face should seat against this flat surface you created on the wood. This will also help align your piece.
 
I'm still a bit puzzled over the Screw Chuck... starting from the screw end, there's the screw, then a thick shaped flange, a smaller diameter, then another thin shaped flange at the base of the screw. Which of these gets clamped? It seems the the screw is dimensioned so that when the circular part (not the flat part) of the thick shaped flange is clamped by the inner part of the jaws, the base of screw threads just line up with the outer part of the jaws... is this correct?


I did get the jaws in numerical order. I checked that one at least twice... 😀

Looking at the chuck face on, #4 jaw is a little misaligned with the rest of them. Instead of being at a true 90, it seems it's just a smidge rotated, so that the jaws don't make a continuous circle...

If I need to return it, do I send it back to Woodcraft? Or should I contact the TechnaTool folks?
 
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Jim -- The instructions that come with this chuck specify that you need to close the jaws before you do the final tightening of the set screws. I just checked my PDF file for the Midi on the process and noted the line you mentioned: "Now with all jaws touching and excreting equal pressure on each tighten all screws up. This will ensure a perfect run out. Check to see there are no gaps between the jaws if this has happened it will probably be due to a jaw being placed on its wrong number (e.g. a #2 jaw on a #3 jaw slide)"

That's pretty funny but the intention of the instructions seems to be right on. For the record, I also own a couple Oneway chucks and never had to go through that routine. However, my Midi has worked well for me although its range is rather limited.
 
Thanks for the comments Chuck...

Yes the intent of that part of the instructions is pretty good. But after following that procedure the #4 jaw still seems a bit rotated instead of being lined up in the 90 notch created by the #1 and #3 jaws....

Is it a problem? I dunno...

As for the Screw Chuck instructions.... here they are, but they still don't make much sense:

The woodworm screw is made complete with the boss section in one piece. jaws while the shorter. 😕 The woodworm screw is to be used with the jaws remaining on place on the chuck. This facility is very convient for remounting the work directly onto the jaws after the screw is removed.

To convert to this operation, place the boss section into the centre of the chuck and close jaws into the slots. BEFORE FINAL TIGHTENING MAKE SURE THAT THE FRONT OF THE BOSS SECTION OF THE SCREW IS SEATED BEHIND AND AGAINST THE 50MM JAWS. This will prevent any tendency for the boss section to creep forward when the screw is being used.
Click to expand...


A picture on this fool thing would be worth the whole two paragraphs....
 
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Yuppers, it's a problem. Sounds like "return and replace" time to me. I've got a nova and have never had this problem so don't expect it to happen if you get a replacement.

Ya know that smaller diameter on the screw that you mentioned? That's what seats between the inner edge of the bottom of the jaws (down where they attach to the chuck). They should close on it tightly just before the jaws close completely. You'll end up with a spike in a cup look.

Dietrich
 
Dietrich,

That's kind of what I figured, but there a couple of ways to place it, and it doesn't seem to fit exactly right when I put it in there that way. So the small diameter fits in behind inner part of the jaws, but where do the flats and rounds on the shaped flange of the screw chuck fit?
 
They line up with the gear pieces the jaws are attached to. This keeps it from spinning in place. When you tighten it, it should rotate a tiny bit on it's own to center itself this way, as long as you roughly line up the flats with the jaws.

Or, you can do what I do and mount it in a chunk of wood to use as a holder when turning bottle stoppers. I actually have nevered used mine as a "wood worm". I always start between centers and turn a tenon or inset. Much more stable.

Dietrich
 
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Ah.. Ok. Thanks.

I'll try that to see how it works.

I've also contacted the repair/replacement center for the US. Tim Geist is supposed to call me back in the AM.
 
I messed around with the chuck last night, and I figured out how to get the jaws lined up. I loosened the chuck up just a tad, then loosened the screws on the jaws, twisted the jaws til I got the alignment I wanted, then tightened the screws down. Now I get a smooth concentric ring around the perimeter...

So I spoke to Tim this morning, and he didn't tell me I did anything wrong, so it must be ok...

And I also tried out the suggested worm screw placement, and it works great!

Time to use this thing!


Thanks for all your help!
 
underdog said:
I'm still a bit puzzled over the Screw Chuck... starting from the screw end, there's the screw, then a thick shaped flange, a smaller diameter, then another thin shaped flange at the base of the screw. Which of these gets clamped? It seems the the screw is dimensioned so that when the circular part (not the flat part) of the thick shaped flange is clamped by the inner part of the jaws, the base of screw threads just line up with the outer part of the jaws... is this correct?


I did get the jaws in numerical order. I checked that one at least twice... 😀

Looking at the chuck face on, #4 jaw is a little misaligned with the rest of them. Instead of being at a true 90, it seems it's just a smidge rotated, so that the jaws don't make a continuous circle...

If I need to return it, do I send it back to Woodcraft? Or should I contact the TechnaTool folks?
Click to expand...

Jim, It sounds like oyu got the screw clamping correct but as to the missalignment I'd take it back to WoodCraft. I had to do that with a Nova Midi I purchased and found that it had a faulty grub screw that prevented the lever bar from inserting into the hole properly. My local WoodCraft replaced it without a blink.
 
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