So I've been turning for a little while and so far all my bowls have been finished with BLO coating a couple of days and then finished with the Beall system. This weekend I finished another hollow form and thought I would try something different. Tonight I put on a couple of coats of BLO and now I'm soliciting ideas on what I could try next. The form is from cherry with both heartwood and sapwood. Anyone have a suggestion on what I can try? I would like something on the shiny side, you know, art studio like. Oh, and I don't have a sprayer or booth.
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- Thread starter Simoli
- Start date
Once the BLO has dried completely my preference would be several coats of TreWax with a good buffing between coats.
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- May 16, 2005
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Shellac. Wonderful stuff for pieces created to be admired not used, and easy to apply. I like two seal (1#) coats sanded and then some polishing with cotton, shellac, and a touch or two of lubricating oil to keep the cloth from sticking. Principles are French Polish based. You can build, then buff for scatter with your Tripoli or steel wool. Wax will cut the gloss too. Or leave the glorious gloss to catch the sun.
If you want high gloss, try a couple thin coats of wipe-on gloss polyurethane.
Ed
Ed
Hey Sim,
I won't go into great detail but you're gonna find that, although folks start out using BLO, they quickly move to other finishes and never come back.
Most folks use either a surface finish like shellac or laquer, or use an artificial polymerizing oil such as eurythane oil. Some folks still use walnut or tung oil but even tung oil is usually made with eurythane oil these days.
Dietrich
I won't go into great detail but you're gonna find that, although folks start out using BLO, they quickly move to other finishes and never come back.
Most folks use either a surface finish like shellac or laquer, or use an artificial polymerizing oil such as eurythane oil. Some folks still use walnut or tung oil but even tung oil is usually made with eurythane oil these days.
Dietrich
😕 What does BLO stand for?
BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
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Been using wipe on gloss ( minwax) poly for about 12 yrs now sometimes I cut it 50/50 with paint thinner during the winter to hasten the drying time. Light sand w/600 and very lite coat of minwax finish wax , buff with sheep wool low speed on lathe and a crawl on the drill . let set about an hour then with cotton cloth buff out the haze.
I use a similar process as chips29. i got a heads-up on wipe on poly from Curt Theobald.
• Min Wax wipe-on polyurethane
• Warm poly in sunny window or near shop heater to make it thinner
• Apply one coat of poly on the lathe.
o Spin for 10-15 min to ensure even coat. Very Slowly!! or it will creep
o Let stand for one day
• Sand with 1200 grit auto sandpaper
• Repeat process for 4 coats
o Let finished piece stand for 3 days
• Use old cutup blue jeans to polish after three days.
o Lower speed to ensure no brandishing
o Jeans have different buffing ability on the inside and the out side.
Min Wax will not work on oily woods like cocobolo. Alternately use Water Lox and the same process.
Warning – wet Water Lox rags can spontaneously combust. Be sure to hang wet rags in well ventilated area until dry.
• Min Wax wipe-on polyurethane
• Warm poly in sunny window or near shop heater to make it thinner
• Apply one coat of poly on the lathe.
o Spin for 10-15 min to ensure even coat. Very Slowly!! or it will creep
o Let stand for one day
• Sand with 1200 grit auto sandpaper
• Repeat process for 4 coats
o Let finished piece stand for 3 days
• Use old cutup blue jeans to polish after three days.
o Lower speed to ensure no brandishing
o Jeans have different buffing ability on the inside and the out side.
Min Wax will not work on oily woods like cocobolo. Alternately use Water Lox and the same process.
Warning – wet Water Lox rags can spontaneously combust. Be sure to hang wet rags in well ventilated area until dry.