New Jet 16" 2HP Lathe

[Richard Wilabee]

My new lathe arrived today. Wow I wasn't expecting such a beefy lathe coming from the shopsmith. I started unpacking it and it noticed it doesn't have a plug on the end of the power cable. I was surprised because the manual that I printed out ahead of time shows the type of receptacle to use. The black and white wires have spade lugs and the ground has a round lug. Am I just suppose to go get my own plug and cut those off so I can wrap the wires around the terminals on the plug. I have 3 friends coming tomorrow to help me set it up.

Rich

 

[Mark Mandell]

Plugless

You will find that you have the "option" to wire your motor for 120 rather than 240. You will also find that there are different plug configurations for 240 outlets; which one you use for your outlet determines the "style" of plug you need. Hence they send you the machine without a plug so you can chose which plug and outlet "style" you'll use.

It's not secret stuff, Rich. Just the way the manufactures save a $1.50 😀

 

[Richard Wilabee]

Shame on them. What cracks me up is the they showed in the manual I downloaded to use the 220 20 amp receptacle that has two the two slots going parallel to the floor and then the usual round ground.

Rich

 

[Richard Coers]

Shame on them. What cracks me up is the they showed in the manual I downloaded to use the 220 20 amp receptacle that has two the two slots going parallel to the floor and then the usual round ground.

Rich

Shame on them? Order any commercial woodworking machinery, from anyone, and you won't even get a cord. Just the way it has been for decades!

 

[Bill Boehme]

You will find that you have the "option" to wire your motor for 120 rather than 240. You will also find that there are different plug configurations for 240 outlets; which one you use for your outlet determines the "style" of plug you need. Hence they send you the machine without a plug so you can chose which plug and outlet "style" you'll use.

It's not secret stuff, Rich. Just the way the manufactures save a $1.50 😀

Interesting -- so is it the inverter that is being wired for 120 volts and the it has a voltage doubler -- or ... is it both the inverter and motor that need to be rewired? I ask because it is unusual (as in, I've never encountered this before) to have an inverter rated for the higher current (double) when operating on 120 volts unless it is over rated for the motor at 240 volts. Higher current ratings always translates into more expensive inverter.

The buck fifty plug really isn't a case of being cheap, it's just that unlike 120 volt devices there are a number of plug configurations that might be encountered by the user and it would be a shame to either cut off the plug to replace it with another or to change the receptacle which is more expensive.

 

[Richard Wilabee]

On my model the 1647-2 the inverter says input 220 volts 1 phase - Output 220 volts 3 phase. The motor says 220 volt 3 phase on it. So the inverter is converting the single phase to 3 phase.

Rich

 

[Bill Boehme]

Richard, since you are familiar with electronics, the way that the inverter converts single phase to three phase is to create a pulse-width modulated (PWM) output at a frequency typically about 5 kHz. The PWM output has a constant voltage of about 240 volts for each pulse, but the width of each pulse varies so that the net result is that power to the motor is equivalent to the power of a sine wave at the desired operating frequency. The output transistor configuration is an H-bridge that delivers power to two of the three phases with the third phase grounded. At slow speeds, the 240 volts is reduced in proportion to motor speed so that the motors magnetic core isn't saturated. Because the motor is an inductive load for the pulsed square wave, high voltage transients are created when a pulse switches off. Those high voltage transients can punch through the insulation of the motor windings so that is the reason the the three-phase motor needs to be rated for inverter duty. Now that you know this, you will never have another catch when using a skew. 🙄

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Richard, since you are familiar with electronics, the way that the inverter converts single phase to three phase is to create a pulse-width modulated (PWM) output at a frequency typically about 5 kHz. The PWM output has a constant voltage of about 240 volts for each pulse, but the width of each pulse varies so that the net result is that power to the motor is equivalent to the power of a sine wave at the desired operating frequency. The output transistor configuration is an H-bridge that delivers power to two of the three phases with the third phase grounded. At slow speeds, the 240 volts is reduced in proportion to motor speed so that the motors magnetic core isn't saturated. Because the motor is an inductive load for the pulsed square wave, high voltage transients are created when a pulse switches off. Those high voltage transients can punch through the insulation of the motor windings so that is the reason the the three-phase motor needs to be rated for inverter duty. Now that you know this, you will never have another catch when using a skew. 🙄

Yes! isn't it amazing how a little knowledge can change everything. LOL

 

[Richard Wilabee]

Richard, since you are familiar with electronics, the way that the inverter converts single phase to three phase is to create a pulse-width modulated (PWM) output at a frequency typically about 5 kHz. The PWM output has a constant voltage of about 240 volts for each pulse, but the width of each pulse varies so that the net result is that power to the motor is equivalent to the power of a sine wave at the desired operating frequency. The output transistor configuration is an H-bridge that delivers power to two of the three phases with the third phase grounded. At slow speeds, the 240 volts is reduced in proportion to motor speed so that the motors magnetic core isn't saturated. Because the motor is an inductive load for the pulsed square wave, high voltage transients are created when a pulse switches off. Those high voltage transients can punch through the insulation of the motor windings so that is the reason the the three-phase motor needs to be rated for inverter duty. Now that you know this, you will never have another catch when using a skew. 🙄

Wow I had the general idea of what the inverter was doing now I know how it was doing it. Your right never another catch. 🙄

 

[Gretch Flo]

Richard, since you are familiar with electronics, the way that the inverter converts single phase to three phase is to create a pulse-width modulated (PWM) output at a frequency typically about 5 kHz. The PWM output has a constant voltage of about 240 volts for each pulse, but the width of each pulse varies so that the net result is that power to the motor is equivalent to the power of a sine wave at the desired operating frequency. The output transistor configuration is an H-bridge that delivers power to two of the three phases with the third phase grounded. At slow speeds, the 240 volts is reduced in proportion to motor speed so that the motors magnetic core isn't saturated. Because the motor is an inductive load for the pulsed square wave, high voltage transients are created when a pulse switches off. Those high voltage transients can punch through the insulation of the motor windings so that is the reason the the three-phase motor needs to be rated for inverter duty. Now that you know this, you will never have another catch when using a skew. 🙄

Bill I see you're are bilingual !!!!! Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill I see you're are bilingual !!!!! Gretch

Gretch, yes I speak fluent "Electronics". 😀

 

[Odie]

Bill I see you're are bilingual !!!!! Gretch

Gretch.....

You heard that "swishing" sound passing over the top of your head, too.....? 🙄

Heh,heh,heh!

ooc

 

[Gretch Flo]

Gretch.....

You heard that "swishing" sound passing over the top of your head, too.....? 🙄

Heh,heh,heh!

ooc

Yes as I was steel wooling bowls!!!!! Gretch

 

[Rob Wallace]

Electrical connection and Setting-up the Jet 1642 - Take some time now to "tweak it!"

My new lathe arrived today. Wow I wasn't expecting such a beefy lathe coming from the shopsmith. I started unpacking it and it noticed it doesn't have a plug on the end of the power cable. I was surprised because the manual that I printed out ahead of time shows the type of receptacle to use. The black and white wires have spade lugs and the ground has a round lug. Am I just suppose to go get my own plug and cut those off so I can wrap the wires around the terminals on the plug. I have 3 friends coming tomorrow to help me set it up.

Rich

Hi Rich!

Congratulations on the new lathe - you will love that machine!

Unlike the 1.5 HP version of the 1642, I believe the 2 HP version requires 220V, and does not include the possibility of wiring the machine for 110V service. The machine comes without a "plug" (actually termed a 'cap') because there are likely different options available to provide local electrical service to the 1642, including hard-wiring the machine directly into a switched box without a receptacle. Yes, you would cut off the spade lugs and ring connector (ground) if using a service cap of appropriate NEMA configuration for voltage and current requirements. If you haven't already checked, be sure the 2 HP lathe has at least a 15A 220V service, with the correct type of receptacle, and obtain the correct type of matching cap to connect to the end of the cord.

I have previously posted recommendations on how to tune up and 'tweak' your Jet 1642 to provide optimal service, particularly for making some refinements that will pay dividends of ease of use long into the future. Cleaning up the castings a bit by chamfering them (i.e. remove sharp edges of the mating surfaces) and removing any additional rough edges of the bed, along with the bottom mating surfaces of the headstock, banjo, and tailstock will improve the lathe's sliding functions to make adjustment much easier. Periodic maintenance and clean-up of the bed and related areas will keep the lathe performing well over time. It's also useful to know that most of these tweaks need to be performed only ONCE in the life of the lathe (i.e chamfering the bed edges, and sharp bottom edges of the headstock, banjo, and tailstock), and are best done when setting-up the machine in the first place.

Be sure the lathe is carefully adjusted for good floor contact of all 4 feet, and that the lathe bed is level front to back as well as side to side.

You can have a look at the following link to access a previous AAW Forum thread on this subject where I make some additional recommendations about setting up the 1642:

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?6021-

Good luck with your new machine and above all,

TURN SAFELY ! ! ! !

Rob Wallace

 

[Richard Wilabee]

Hi Rich!

Congratulations on the new lathe - you will love that machine!

Unlike the 1.5 HP version of the 1642, I believe the 2 HP version requires 220V, and does not include the possibility of wiring the machine for 110V service. The machine comes without a "plug" (actually termed a 'cap') because there are likely different options available to provide local electrical service to the 1642, including hard-wiring the machine directly into a switched box without a receptacle. Yes, you would cut off the spade lugs and ring connector (ground) if using a service cap of appropriate NEMA configuration for voltage and current requirements. If you haven't already checked, be sure the 2 HP lathe has at least a 15A 220V service, with the correct type of receptacle, and obtain the correct type of matching cap to connect to the end of the cord.

I have previously posted recommendations on how to tune up and 'tweak' your Jet 1642 to provide optimal service, particularly for making some refinements that will pay dividends of ease of use long into the future. Cleaning up the castings a bit by chamfering them (i.e. remove sharp edges of the mating surfaces) and removing any additional rough edges of the bed, along with the bottom mating surfaces of the headstock, banjo, and tailstock will improve the lathe's sliding functions to make adjustment much easier. Periodic maintenance and clean-up of the bed and related areas will keep the lathe performing well over time. It's also useful to know that most of these tweaks need to be performed only ONCE in the life of the lathe (i.e chamfering the bed edges, and sharp bottom edges of the headstock, banjo, and tailstock), and are best done when setting-up the machine in the first place.

Be sure the lathe is carefully adjusted for good floor contact of all 4 feet, and that the lathe bed is level front to back as well as side to side.

You can have a look at the following link to access a previous AAW Forum thread on this subject where I make some additional recommendations about setting up the 1642:

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?6021-

Good luck with your new machine and above all,

TURN SAFELY ! ! ! !

Rob Wallace

Thanks for your input, suggestions, and the link. I have it plugged in to a 20 amp 220 circuit. I went ahead and used the suggested receptacle and "cap" which it shows in the manual. It is the one with the two lugs horizontal to each other and then the round ground. I have the lathe perfectly level front to back but I was hoping to not have to level it side to side as my garage floor has a built in slope. I think they do this should you have a leak at the water heater the water will run out of the garage. I have been turning with my Shopsmith that way and it seems ok. If I can leave it with the slight slope that way no matter where I move the headstock I will always be at the same height to the headstock because I will be standing on the same slope. It is probably 1 3/4" slope for the entire length of the lathe. I'm 5' 7" so it seems just right with the feet of the lathe all the way down.

By the way I just joined AAW last night. I printed my membership card but I don't see my member number. Will they be sending that to me.

Thanks
Rich Wilabee