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New chuck question

W

WODAD

Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
64
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3
Location
Beresford, South Dakota
Purchased a new Teknatool chuck (titan model), this is also a second, so I can move projects on and off the lathe without removing them from the chuck or changing jaws out. Just started using the newer one and noticed it doesn't spin as true as my original? Not much right at the chuck (just a slight blur) but get out there 6 or 7 inches and it's really noticeable. Everything is tight not sure what else to check for. Lathe is good so I'm not worried about that any suggestions would be helpful! Bought a cheap one once when my budget was very limited and it wobbled a lot but I did get what I paid for and was happy to have been able to come up with the money at that time for that chuck.

This is a different case altogether, expensive chuck that spins like an el-cheapo:mad:

Thanks

Frank D.
 
Frank
Teknatool is in the process of moving some (or all, depending on who you listen to) of their machining work to China
Some of their early Chinese made stuff may not have been "up to par", as there have been a few reports of run-out, poor finish, etc (but then ask me the same about my NZ made Lathe, or even worse a friends)
Did your's say "Made in NZ" and "Made in China" on the package.
 
The kind of problem you mention usually goes along with an improperly registered insert. Back it out, clean anything that is hanging out in there, and re-thread. Care will do it nine of ten. Teknatool has a warning on their site about bad inserts, IIRC.

That wouldn't be from Gadd, would it? KMS? I got two cruddy jaw sets from them, though they steadfastly claimed they didn't sell seconds. Strange to get two mismatched sets from the same source.
 
I had the exact same problem with the Titan I purchased about two years back. I assumed I hadn't seated the insert, but couldn't get it any tighter. Turned out the insert itself wasn't true. I found this out by trying the one from an older Nova chuck that ran true. Got another insert from Craft Supplies in a couple days with no problem.
 
The "Titan"

I was truly upset when, a few weeks ago, I returned to a half-turned project that I had wrapped in plastic the night before to find my Titan rusted from the condensation from the plastic wrap. I learned after the fact, that the Titan is not nickel plated as is my Super Nova.

I can't rightly send it back to Craft Supplies, having used it for a year, but I will no longer make any assumptions about the quality that comes out of Utah.
 
MichaelMouse said:
...
That wouldn't be from Gadd, would it? KMS? I got two cruddy jaw sets from them, though they steadfastly claimed they didn't sell seconds. Strange to get two mismatched sets from the same source.
Click to expand...

While I have had nothing but top stuff from Bob (he is an authorized dealer), the only crap I got from Teknatool, came direct from Tim (the distributor for North America)

Bottom line Teknatool has had some QC issues.
 
Yes, t/tool have warned about 3rd party inserts.

When I got a Titan the supplier said there was a shortage of OEM inserts so he got some made up. No prob with his.

And other forums have posts noting some quality variation in t/tool stuff lately.
 
My Vicmarc chuck rusted after leaving a green piece of oak in it overnight. I knew better but simply forgot. I think putting any wood with high tannic acid in a chuck and leaving it overnight is asking for rust.
As others have said I would check the insert but it's also possible the wood simply compresses differently and can pull it off center.
 
Yeah, AFAIK, the Vicmarcs are unplated medium tensile steel and prone to rusting.

My t/tools are rather less prone but not immune.

Both are worth the occasional wipe over with Inox or the like.

And when green turning it's worth putting a couple of layers of kitchen wrap over the jaws.
 
I turn green wood all the time using my OW Talon and Stonghold chucks. Some of it so wet that I have liquid dripping off the tools and off me while I'm turning. I've left it chucked for as much as a week and not a spec of rust on the jaws or chuck body. Black marks on the wood, but nothing on the chuck.

Ed
 
Ed_McDonnell said:
I turn green wood all the time using my OW Talon and Stonghold chucks. ...

Ed
Click to expand...

One of the things to like about those chucks is their plating

OneWay said:
Electroless nickel plating provides a hard wearing surface for base jaws and scroll while giving the added bonus of providing excellent corrosion resistance
Click to expand...
 
Ed_McDonnell said:
I turn green wood all the time using my OW Talon and Stonghold chucks. Some of it so wet that I have liquid dripping off the tools and off me while I'm turning. I've left it chucked for as much as a week and not a spec of rust on the jaws or chuck body. Black marks on the wood, but nothing on the chuck.
Click to expand...

So what do you suppose the black is, mildew?

Forgot to mention in the original post that you DON'T rack on down to seat the insert, merely snug it and lock it with the grub screw so you don't cock it on the leads, as this can lead to runout.
 
Titan and CSUSA

n7bsn said:
Why blame CSUSA for something Teknatool made?
Click to expand...

There was a time, when Dale Nish was building this business, that I believe (although I don't know for a fact) that everything sold by CSUSA was of a quality that this world reknown woodturner would "endorse" only after first-hand knowledge.

The difference between nickel plated and polished steel is a HUGE differece, and one that a supplier ought to be up-front about. On the catalog page it looks the same, and looks the same out-of-the-box, but had I known, I would have protected that chuck body. Again, I will not take for granted the quality that comes out of Utah any longer.
 
MichaelMouse said:
So what do you suppose the black is, mildew?
Click to expand...


I notice it mostly on mahogany. It has to be some reaction between the wood and the jaws. Wet mahogany has a tendency to turn everything black as you work with it (hands, tools, lathe bed). Lemon juice removes the black from the hands. Haven't worried about it on the wood because I always reshape, carve or remove the tenon.

Ed
 
Ed_McDonnell said:
I notice it mostly on mahogany. It has to be some reaction between the wood and the jaws. Wet mahogany has a tendency to turn everything black as you work with it (hands, tools, lathe bed). Lemon juice removes the black from the hands. Haven't worried about it on the wood because I always reshape, carve or remove the tenon.

Ed
Click to expand...

I notice the same thing with green Butternut
 
thanks!

I did try backing the insert out and back in to no avail. I will try the insert from my original check and see how that does. Also my original chuck has 3-pinions, the newer on only has two (if that means anything). Will have to look at the box as both chucks say made in NZ right on them. Thanks again for all your help!

Frank D
 
Reading the Vicmarc website catalog yesterday it seems they are now nickel plating their chucks.

The jaws however are said to be supplied 'blackened', whatever that means.
 
Of course it is corrosion. Sometimes people just don't think. They think of rust, not corrosion.

I suppose I should have put one of those toothy grin pictures in there. 😀
 
This seems to be pretty well covered. Very small errors in the making of a chuck produce a greatly magnified error when large or tall bowls are turned. One thing that isn't mentioned is that it's a good idea to put pencil marks on one of the jaws and the base of the turning if one is removing the turning from the chuck so that when it it re-mounted in the chuck, the marks can be lined up and the bowl will not be off center requiring the removal of more wood.

Malcolm Smith.
 
Malcolm Smith said:
.... One thing that isn't mentioned is that it's a good idea to put pencil marks on one of the jaws and the base of the turning if one is removing the turning from the chuck so that when it it re-mounted in the chuck, the marks can be lined up and the bowl will not be off center requiring the removal of more wood....
I do something similar. The Nova chucks jaw positions are numbered, and I write a 1 on the blank, right at the one of the jaw. I don't know how much it actually reduces errors, but I do it anyway
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
n7bsn said:
Teknatool "blackens" some of their also. I'm guessing it's a corrosion resistant over coat, similar to bluing or anodize
Click to expand...

Probably phosphate. Fairly standard item.
 
n7bsn said:
I do something similar. The Nova chucks jaw positions are numbered, and I write a 1 on the blank, right at the one of the jaw. I don't know how much it actually reduces errors, but I do it anyway
Click to expand...

Ah, the joys of dovetails. A circle in a circle is always the same. At least on my four chucks and six sets of jaws. Of course you're wise to fit, shake, tighten, shake, snug to make sure you haven't lifted one side off the bottom or something.
 
It hasn't been mentioned in a while so I'll repeat a suggestion I made some time ago. If one is re-mounting a first turned bowl that has dried, there can be considerable distortion in the base where it fits into the chuck. This should be re-turned to round for the second turning so that it will fit properly and be secure.

Also, if a bowl has been mounted for a while in a chuck, it's a good idea to check the tightness. I often find what seemed tight no longer is.

Malcolm Smith.
 
Malcolm Smith said:
Also, if a bowl has been mounted for a while in a chuck, it's a good idea to check the tightness. I often find what seemed tight no longer is.
Click to expand...

Good idea for any turning, especially with overnight delay on wood less than a few years old after felling. Ditto snugging the tailstock if between centers.

Joe
 
Ditto if you're turning green.

The tenon will often shrink a bit and that can cause a nasty surprise if you don't cinch the chuck up.
 
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