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Derek Lane

Derek Lane

Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Messages
61
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Location
UK
Website
www.facebook.com
I have an idea for a turned piece which will require holes to be drilled around the stand eventually to have something put into them. Up until now I have managed to to get away with using a spanner on the nut behind the chuck and resting it on the bed, this allowed for either 2, 3or 6 holes to be placed around whatever I was making. I could go about it by buying an indexing plate as my chucks don't have index holes in them, or make one.
A while ago I brought some bits and pieces second hand for the lathe and in the box was the the bracket for a Robert Sorby indexing support which had been modified as can be seen in the photo the bottom bracket had been replaced with a short flat bar. Now mine has two round bars so that is to short, that is not a problem as I have some longer flat bar to replace it with and will make a small block so it sits between the bars as well as making an upright.
The main part however took a little longer to make the index wheel luckily I had some 1/8" thick steel sheet cut this to a little over 6" diameter stuck on a circle with division lines of 24 as I felt that is the most I would ever want.
I drilled a hole in the centre after centre popping to make sure I drill exactly centre(well exactly as much as you can with just a drill press). I used a jig so that the division lines went straight across under a straight edge that sat on two dowels so it did not move and then drilled the outer index holes. Now after all this I wish I took more photo's.

Using the same jig I rotated the disc in front of the grinder this made it nice and round.
I took the opportunity at this sage to use a hole saw to enlarge the centre hole to fit my lathe.
So as of tonight I am at this stage along with the replacement bottom bar cut to length ready for a hole. Also note that so I don't confuse myself when using it I numbered every even numbered hole.


I will post more when I get around to it as well as the jig which will not be until late tomorrow as I have to go for scans tomorrow and I know I will be at the hospital for at least 3 hours what a pain

DSCF8949 (800x600).jpg DSCF8965 (800x600).jpg DSCF8961 (800x600).jpg
 
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good luck with your visit
 
Gerald Lawrence said:
I used that same paper protractor on the first one I did and then got the Fire and Iron before Flute Masters bought them. Works well for minimal investment. I like what you did but sounds time consuming.
Click to expand...

I only turn as a hobby and have plenty of time. I do however find that making my own jigs very enjoyable especially working out how to lay them out and produce the parts with the tools that I own

Don Bunce said:
Here is a link to a divider calculator. http://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/reference/divider
Click to expand...

I did have some templates saved and could not find them and had to go hunting for them in the depths of the computer ended up looking online and the could only find those with that many lines intersecting the centre which made it very difficult to pin point the exact centre. That link is fantastic and now have bookmarked it for future use thank you very much
 
I use indexing a lot and have at least 3 different systems. If you want to make your own this page lets you print out a circle with any number of divisions. http://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/reference/divider The simple way to lock this wheel in position is to make an L shaped piece of wood that sits on the bed of your lathe and sticks up to the index wheel. I cut mine so it's horizontal and would line up with the center of my wheel. Then just rotate the index wheel and lock it in place with a hand clamp. You can lay out any number of divisions with this system. Even odd numbers.
the other systems I use are the Ironfire index wheel now sold by Carter Products. It's very inexpensive. You do have to build your own index locking pin but I'll show you that in a minute. The other system I have is the Alisam index wheel. Very solid and accurate and kind of expensive although it will last a lifetime. I didn't like the index pin on this system because it's too slow to screw the pin in and out. Trying doing that when your indexing 120 slots. So I modified a homebuilt system I saw on the web and made it work with not only my index wheels but my chucks as well. It is basically a spring loaded index pin that rotates so I can use it in the back of my chuck, the side of my chuck or the front or back of my index wheels. Here is a photo shown using the Ironfire index wheel. The spring I mention is just the length of the steel rod. I simply push it against the index wheel until it's "sprung" and then lock it in place.
 

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  • Wooden index pin lock.jpg
    Wooden index pin lock.jpg
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Derek I you need more info I have it. I've written a small article that I think may be in the Journal sometime but don't know when Josh is going to use it. I have another one made out of steel that has a knurled nut at the bottom so I can move the locking pin up or down fractions of an inch. This lets me split the difference between the holes in my index wheels to double the number of holes. Or in some cases when you have to remove a turning from the lathe to do some work and then put it back on and the index marking don't exactly line up. I can loosen the set screw and then turn the knurled knob and raise or lower the index pin so the index marks on the work line up exactly and I can do more routing or whatever.
 
Thank you John I think what I have done will see me through when I have changed the index locating pin assembly. At the moment I have an idea for the use of it which is partially why I decided to make it in the first place. Now that it is made I will probably find little projects for it, well would not want to waste all that energy on making it just for one item;)
 
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