I have tried wipe on poly finishes several times and can't seem to get the same high gloss others are getting here. I even followed the directins, if you can believe that!! Is there a secret? I am using the clear gloss Minwax.
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Need wipe on poly help
- Thread starter Glenn McCullough
- Start date
Glenn
Have used Wipe-on-Poly for years. Do you sand with 400 grit or 4/0 steel wool and or artificial steel wool, wipe down with a tack rag then apply the finish? I use a piece of old T-shit cut in pieces with pinking shears to keep from the edges coming apart on you while you are wiping on the finish. I do the above on each coat that I apply. One other thought the can of poly that you are using it might be bad, if you have had it for a while, go buy a fresh can. Or the finish that was put on is not completey dry or the piece might not be completey dry either.
To get the depth of finish that I am looking for on each piece that I do, I put on any where from 3 to 5 or more coats of the finish to get the depth and sheen that I am looking for.
Gary:cool2:
Have used Wipe-on-Poly for years. Do you sand with 400 grit or 4/0 steel wool and or artificial steel wool, wipe down with a tack rag then apply the finish? I use a piece of old T-shit cut in pieces with pinking shears to keep from the edges coming apart on you while you are wiping on the finish. I do the above on each coat that I apply. One other thought the can of poly that you are using it might be bad, if you have had it for a while, go buy a fresh can. Or the finish that was put on is not completey dry or the piece might not be completey dry either.
To get the depth of finish that I am looking for on each piece that I do, I put on any where from 3 to 5 or more coats of the finish to get the depth and sheen that I am looking for.
Gary:cool2:
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Don't rub the last coat for level, flow it for self-leveling gloss. Think Zamboni, and drag that wet rag.
If that fails, let it cure for a week and buff it. Just be careful not to cut through or it'll leave a shadow.
If that fails, let it cure for a week and buff it. Just be careful not to cut through or it'll leave a shadow.
Sanded to 400, 0000steel wool, put three coats on, some areas shiny and some not so, but none are high gloss. This is a new can, less than 6 months old. Waited over two hours between 1and second coat, waited overnight to put 3rd coat on, still blotchy.
The other advice is great. Just flowing on the thing coats is the best advice. Leave just enough on the surface so that it will not run. On softer, or porous wood, you can start with a couple coats of shellac. That will cut the number of coats needed by a substantial amount. Without the shellac, maybe 9 coats, with the shellac, maybe 5.
Are you sanding between coats?
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
some woods will absorb the finish in spots. Let dry overnight and lightly sand these areas and apply more. Sometimes sanding to a higher grit helps these areas.
Thaks for the help, looks like I just have to keep recoating, sanding, maybe I just need more patience.
Flooring grade poly will build quicker, and give a harder finish.
robo hippy
robo hippy
I agree that maybe some spots are soaking up the finish therefore no shine. Generally I put on 8, 9 or 10 light coats but the first coat I saturate the wood then wipe it down after it won't absorb anymore finish. Then like the others I use a old t-shirt and wipe on thin coats.
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You could combine two of the answers if you have differential absorption problems. Use high-solids poly for coat two on endgrain of sound wood and white punk if you're doing spalted. It'll cure faster than it sinks, and provide a good base for the next coat as long as you get good tooth on the surface. You want to make sure that there are no shiny slick spots on the surface between coats. The next application won't adhere well to those areas, sometimes withdrawing and leaving an obvious ring.