Need some procedural guidance

[Andy Hoyt]

Here's the deal. I’ve just acquired (free) a large mess of hickory and cedar (cedar is of an unknown species, but smells just like hamster bedding). The hickory was cut three years ago and left in 8' lengths in the round and lying on the ground under a pile of leaves. The guy who gave me this wood did this intentionally after reading instructions on how to initiate spalting. He essentially did the same to the cedar, but it was only cut 14 months ago. No spalting in the cedar, but the hickory looks terrific and has lots of stuff going on in it. When I cut them up yesterday I left each piece a few inches longer than the width, in case I ran into crummy or punky wood - although I didn't see any.

It's kinda dry, but not totally. No I do not have a moisture meter (but it's on the list). Today I stacked it up outside behind the barn and threw some of Rockler's Sealer on it. It is off the ground now and here are some pics.

So here's my dilemma. I took these photos at 3PM this afternoon. Right now there's about 2" of snow on 'em with more expected overnight. And we're into that part of the year when temps range from zero to 40 but mostly in the 30's. Come January it'll get down to well below zero. That's my kind of weather, but I wonder how this stuff will react. I'm interested in your thoughts as to how protect the stuff from further deterioration given the above noted circumstances.

Should I tarp 'em?
Should I get into an immediate roughing marathon or can I whittle away it? I'll admit that I'd prefer to whittle away at it.
Should I bring it all inside now until they get roughed? I keep the shop at 55 degrees 24-7.

I'm hoping that some of you fellow northern types have some experience that will help.

Thanks, Andy

In the pics below: Hickory is the middle and the cedar is on the bottom.

 

[pencheff]

I keep the shop at 55 degrees 24-7.

This line alone will render our Florida contingent speechless.

 

[pfduffy]

Log Storage

Andy, The only suggestion I have is that you should try to turn some of the hickory into ruff bowls before it gets any colder outside. That stuff can be hard as concrete when fully dry so the sooner the better. Even if you just turned 6-8 pieces you would have some nice blanks to work with this winter. How the logs survive in the ME temps is outside my expertise. Phil

 

[woodwish]

People actually live in places that cold? Wow, got down to 65 here last night so we tossed on an extra blanket on the bed. I'm not sure my freezer even gets that cold! :cool2:

 

[Brian Hahn]

I'd leave them outside and bring them in as needed. Actually a day or two before they are needed because they will take a couple of days to thaw.

They're sealed so even if it turns warm they'll be OK. Water doesn't evaporate from wood very well when it is frozen! And a blanket of snow is just as good as wax sealer for keeping them from drying out.

It was a balmy 0 F at 5 AM this morning. 6" of fluffy snow on the ground and the ground underneath is still soft. It was a real pain plowing the driveway yesterday -- the gravel wasn't frozen and it was real easy to plow the gravel off the driveway along with the snow!

 

[underdog]

I wonder how frozen sap contributes to splitting and checking? That expansion of the liquid must affect the wood in some fashion.

I used to live in the frozen north and I can tell you from experience that I'd much rather split wood at -20 F than at 90 F. It splits so much easier when that splitting maul hits all that frozen green wood. It just "jumps" apart. And I don't get near so sweaty.... I just don't wanna live there anymore.

 

[hockenbery]

You should rip the log sections in two by cutting them from the bark through the center growth ring. Lay out a bowl or hollow form on the end of the log with the grain pattern you want. Then make the rip cut to yield this blank. Be sure to get one good blank rather than two marginal ones.

Snow cover and freezing should keep the wood from drying out so it is a good thing. Frozen wood will turn but it is a bit harder than unfrozen wood. If you have time I'd let the blanks thaw overnight before turning. I find Ice and frozne shaving a bit uncomfortable.
if ice forms you may have to use a big hammer to break the blanks free.

Happy turning,
Al

 

[dkulze]

Andy,

I was just up there, dang it. Would have been happy to help you take care of your "problem".

Couple of things: Frozen wood turns just fine. Take your time and make light cuts and will turn just like wet wood. Also, freezing won't crack it. It will be fine till spring if ya wanna wait that long.

The cedar is aromatic cedar. The red part won't spalt at all but the white will, eventually. Very rot resistant. When you turn it, make sure to have good dust protection or you'll be coughing for weeks. Might even get nose bleeds.

I'd take Al's recommendation one step further. Mill the logs with two cuts just to the sides of the center pith. This will give you a slab about 10% the thickness of the log and will remove most of the cracking problem. The slabs can become platters or spindle stock.

Past that, you can do some roughing or not. If you do decide to do roughing, make a whole bunch of bowl blanks, wax lightly on the outside surface, and set aside to dry for the winter. By spring, you'll have some nice, relatively dry blanks to finish up.

Make sure to turn some to finish while still wet also, especially the cedar. This will give you some ovalized, warped bowls. You'll get asked all the time how you did that. Just make up a creative lie that involves impossible skills and enjoy the admiration. I tell either tell folks I chewed it out that way or that I moved the chisel in and out with each rotation.

One thing to know, once the hickory dries, it will become concrete. Dry nut woods get sooooo hard it is ridiculous. If not turned green, be prepared for long turning sessions with many resharpens and very light cuts.

Have fun and congrats on the score,
Dietrich

 

[Mark Mandell]

Andy,

The stock will begin drying no matter what you do, and that hickory will reach concrete stage before very long. I would therefore suggest that you rough the hickory while it's at its wettest and softest. The cedar won't be a problem later. I would also tarp the pile because rain or melting snow will erode your Anchorseal.

Will echo Al's comment on examining the wood carefully. A good deal of cracking is caused by defects already in the wood and not seen by the turner during initial selection and preparation.

Remember too, hickory burns well and smells good. 😀

M

 

[Andy Hoyt]

Thanks, guys. I'm gonna throw a tarp over them just to keep them from getting too buried, and then launch into a semi frantic roughing program. Maybe two or three a day. Been there on the turning concrete thing and it aint fun. Yup, I'll saw out the pith and watch the grain. Once again, thanks.

And Dietrich - stop in next time you're up - or down - or over this way.

 

[dkulze]

Twould be up, Andy.

I'm down in Boston area but make it up to Acadia or the Boothbay area a couple of times a year. You'll have to help me convince my wife to stop by, though. She gets a little protective of our vacation time.

Feel free to ping me if you're headed down this end of the world, though. Can drop by a club meeting or drop by to turn.

Dietrich

 

[Brian Hahn]

I wonder how frozen sap contributes to splitting and checking? That expansion of the liquid must affect the wood in some fashion.

Good question. All I can offer is the observation that the trees freeze solid every winter around here. You can hear them popping when it gets really cold. And those trees produce prime hardwood lumber.

 

[underdog]

Yeah,

I noticed that the best "White Rock Maple" comes from up north. And the freezing solid doesn't seem to hurt it any. I wonder if it really does freeze though?

There are certain species of frogs (tiger frog in Alaska) and fish (in Antarctica) that secrete their own anti-freeze and live in below freezing temperatures...

I wonder if trees do the same thing?