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Need help

Joined
Mar 3, 2009
Messages
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Location
Madison, Indiana
Anyone,
I don't know if this is the place to post this but I have a problem that i need help with.
I know I am not too smart but this makes me feel stupid. I bought a new CBN 180 grit for sharpening my gouges and i tried to get the left wheel off my Woodfast grinder. I took off both guards so I could get a hold on the opposite nut but the right wheel came off but i wanted the left one.
I tried what the manual said -wedge a piece of wood between the wheel and guard but it wouldn't budge.
What next??????????
I just put the CBN wheel on the right side BUT that is not what i wanted to do.
 
I feel your pain(!) and have often wondered why grinders don’t have some sort of spindle lock. You could use Vise-Grips with two pieces of wood “padding†to hold (jamb) the wheel in place and then try turning the left side nut clockwise with a large socket wrench. In my experience, the wheel slips on the block of wood wedged against the housing.
 
Use an impact wrench set to clockwise. If you don't have one, you can use a long handled box end wrench on the nut and strike the other end of the wrench really hard with a claw hammer you might even be able to loosen it this way without the need to jam the shaft from turning.
 
I think Owen and Bill both have solutions that can work. For myself, I have a piece of scrap steel (part of an old office chair, I think) that is just the right shape to slip down under the wheel and wedge it between the housing and wheel. This provides just enough holding power to loosen the nut. Use a little imagination, and whatever is available to you!.......😀

Agree with Owen......these grinders need some way to lock the spindle. This is such a no-brainer! 🙄

ko
 
Been there done that. Remove whichever wheel will come off. Grip the shaft with vice grips and pull the other nut off. If its an older grinder put some liquid wrench on it for a day or so before you start the disassembly
 
Been there done that. Remove whichever wheel will come off. Grip the shaft with vice grips and pull the other nut off. If its an older grinder put some liquid wrench on it for a day or so before you start the disassembly

Double nuts better than vice grips, to save the threads.
 
Double nuts do work if you have them. Usually you can grab the unthreaded part. I'm with everyone else on this they should put a spindle lock on the darn thing. Not having one is just plain lazy cheap and stupid.
 
Double nuts better than vice grips, to save the threads.

Thats a good choice, but sometimes double nuts are not an option. When I use vice grips, I wrap a thin piece of brass around the piece, especially when I'm concerned about marring the part. I also try to stay away from threads if possible, but I have also wrapped brass around threads and successfully used vice grips without damaging threads. For a grinder I would want to protect the shaft and would recommend using brass or something to protect it if clamped with vice grips.
 
... they should put a spindle lock on the darn thing. Not having one is just plain lazy cheap and stupid.

If "they" did put in a spindle lock then you probably wouldn't buy it because of the price. Woodturners are notorious about being close friends with their money unless they see something that is perceived to serve an immediate need. Contrary to what some may think, a design change to incorporate a spindle lock would be a major modification. There is no room inside the motor housing for something like that so it would require a change to the housing. Additionally, a lock would need to include a fail-safe electrical interlock to prevent powering the grinder on while the armature was locked. The reason for needing an interlock is that locked rotor current can be as much as ten times the full load current. It wouldn't take but a few seconds to burn out the start winding ... at which point the grinder is toast. I've never seen an AC induction motor with an armature lock ... maybe because it would be very difficult to receive UL approval. So, my opinion is that nobody is being lazy or stupid. Cheap is debatable. 🙄

... sometimes double nuts are not an option....

Double nuts are always an option on a bench grinder. If necessary, you can use two jam nuts if two regular size nuts won't fit.

Why not take a hair dryer and warm the nut, it will expand and be able to remove.

Wouldn't the motor shaft expand just as much as the nuts?
 
If "they"

Wouldn't the motor shaft expand just as much as the nuts?

Bill, No because you do not heat red hot. Torch used to heat nuts on the outside , no heat applied to shaft and therefore it does not expand as much. I and not sure what the heat would do to windings tho. Overall heat expansion is a very old trick for rusty bolts.
 
Bill, No because you do not heat red hot. Torch used to heat nuts on the outside , no heat applied to shaft and therefore it does not expand as much. I and not sure what the heat would do to windings tho. Overall heat expansion is a very old trick for rusty bolts.

Gerald, he said "hair dryer". Applying heat with a torch may or may not help, but in any case, that would be a last gasp desperation move. The OP hasn't come back to participate in this discussion so we don't know if he has solved the problem with or without our various suggestions.

I mentioned that a torch on the nut may or may not help ... Not because I am skeptical of thermodynamics, but because of one of the few things that I still remember from the course. Starting from where we both agree, the steel does expand when heated. Now let's divide this piece of steel into a bunch of tiny finite pieces ... each of these finite elements that make up the whole will expand in all directions equally.

Suppose that we had a very thin ring composed of a single row of these tiny parts joined together in a large circle. When we heat this ring, each of these tiny pieces expand making the diameter greater. But, there's something else ... since each particle expands in all directions, the inside diameter doesn't expand quite as much as the outer diameter.

Now, let's make this ring a little thicker. What happens when it is heated? It expands, but now the inside diameter expands less than it did previously. We can continue making the ring fatter and fatter until we reach a very interesting critical point where the outer diameter expands as expected, but the inner diameter stays the same. Increasing the thickness of the ring beyond that results in the inner diameter becoming small while the outer diameter grows larger.

The nut is a very complex shape so trying to compute whether this would happen in the case of the jammed nut isn't a back of the envelope type of calculation. Furthermore, I can envision that the expansion of the nut could serve to increase the sidewall wedging of the threads since the thing that is causing the nut to be stuck is the side load against the "bellville" washer.

I have had to use a torch to remove a rusted together fan and motor shaft on an air conditioner condenser unit (twice). The motor was destroyed in the process, but that's what I was replacing and the fan blades are what I wanted to salvage. Heat is great when things are heavily rusted together, but I have serious reservations about it being a prudent solution in this situation.
 
I been working on synchronising the Wolverine mounts for my dry grinder and Tormek so the Ellsworth jig works the same on both. It is easier for me to measure with the grinding wheel off. This got me thinking about this thread. With both wheels on, if you want to remove the left wheel use two wrenches and tighten (turn clockwise) with each wrench. A breaker bar could be used if necessary. Do the opposite for the right wheel. The only reason you would need to do anything special is if you needed both wheels off, unless I am missing something. Perhaps this is another reason that they don't have spindle locks.
 
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