I have a much loved Nichols lathe with a leeson motor that just died. I called to ask how much a 3 hp replacement would be. The price was a little over a $1000 (which I don't have at the moment). I am not electrically inclinded, Any suggestions?
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Need a new motor?
- Thread starter Thomas Stegall
- Start date
Try eBay....
Thomas:
Once you have determined the motor specifications you need (power, voltage/phase, duty, shaft size, motor mount class, etc.), do some searches in the 'Business and Industrial' section of eBay. There are thousands of listings for electrical motors on the site each day, and it is likely that you will find a suitable replacement at far less than full retail price. As always, caveat emptor.
Rob Wallace
Thomas:
Once you have determined the motor specifications you need (power, voltage/phase, duty, shaft size, motor mount class, etc.), do some searches in the 'Business and Industrial' section of eBay. There are thousands of listings for electrical motors on the site each day, and it is likely that you will find a suitable replacement at far less than full retail price. As always, caveat emptor.
Rob Wallace
Without knowing the specs of what you need as a replacement (other than 3hp), I'd recommend looking at Surplus Center, even Amazon.
Don't discount Craigslist!
I think you'll see that you can easily cut that $1000 at least in half.
Try calling a motor shop in your area - they may have something for sale that was serviced and never picked up.
Don't discount Craigslist!
I think you'll see that you can easily cut that $1000 at least in half.
Try calling a motor shop in your area - they may have something for sale that was serviced and never picked up.
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There are a lot of motors in the Business and Industrial section of eBay. If you are willing to wait for the right deal, you cn get a good motor for a decent price. It has been about three year since I last bought a motor on eBay, Back then, the Business and Industrial section had not been "discovered" by the hordes. I noticed lately that the bargains are fewer and further between, but still worth perusing the motor area.Just look for a motor of the same voltage, phase, HP, speed, and frame (these data can be found on the nameplate). Does it really need to be 3 HP? Most "big boy" lathes are 2 HP and a few have 3 HP as an upgrade option.
If you look on eBay, look carefully at the picture and make sure that is a picture of the actual motor and not a stock photo. Pass up bad photography because they are trying to hide something. Also, don't give a second look at one that looks beat up and the seller says that it is unused and has only cosmetic blemishes from sitting on a shelf. Rusty shaft -- no way. Repainted -- no way. Picture of a closed cardboard box -- pretend that you never saw it and keep going. Look at the sellers rating and read all recent buyer's remarks. Some sellers get a 100% rating by bullying their customers. Look to see if there are any meaningful feedback comments. Small sellers will hve better deals than the large scale sellers, but it may take more searching and waiting before you find what you want at the right price. Don't get into a bidding war. If you have a high speed connection wait until there are just a few seconds remaining before making a bid. That way, there isn't time for a counter bid especially if you include an automatic counter bid within your spending limit.
If you look on eBay, look carefully at the picture and make sure that is a picture of the actual motor and not a stock photo. Pass up bad photography because they are trying to hide something. Also, don't give a second look at one that looks beat up and the seller says that it is unused and has only cosmetic blemishes from sitting on a shelf. Rusty shaft -- no way. Repainted -- no way. Picture of a closed cardboard box -- pretend that you never saw it and keep going. Look at the sellers rating and read all recent buyer's remarks. Some sellers get a 100% rating by bullying their customers. Look to see if there are any meaningful feedback comments. Small sellers will hve better deals than the large scale sellers, but it may take more searching and waiting before you find what you want at the right price. Don't get into a bidding war. If you have a high speed connection wait until there are just a few seconds remaining before making a bid. That way, there isn't time for a counter bid especially if you include an automatic counter bid within your spending limit.
Thomas, you do not say what happened to your present motor. Are you sure that it is beyond repair? A motor may fail to run because of minor problems such as a bad starting capacitor or centrifugal starting switch. Even rewinding a burned out stator winding may be cheaper than replacing the whole motor. Most cities have one or more motor repair shops.
Dennis
Dennis
Thomas
Try HGR in Cleveland. They always have large hp motors on the cheap side but their good motors and great people to deal with.
They sell anything in the industrial area metal lathes to plastic buckets. Also they will talk price.
Try HGR in Cleveland. They always have large hp motors on the cheap side but their good motors and great people to deal with.
They sell anything in the industrial area metal lathes to plastic buckets. Also they will talk price.
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I recently talked at length with the owner of one of the few remaining motor repair shops in the DFW area that deals with non industrial customers. The gist of the converstion is that in the past few years, this type of business has changed dramatically. Manufacturers no longer support their products with repair parts on small motors. If it is in warranty, a replacement is provided and the old motor is trashed. No more rewinding because it costs a small shop too much for it to be profitable, If it is a motor with plain bearings, there are no replacements. Thermal overload switches are buried deep within the windings so it would be too expensive to dig it out and replace it if repair parts were available, but they aren't so it is a moot point.
Industrial motors are a different story, but repairs to those very expensive motors come at industrial strength prices.
I agree with Dennis that the motor shouldn't be pronounced dead until some basic things have been checked. As Dennis said capacitors and centrifugal switches are the prime suspects. Next on the list are the bearings. Unless you detect the unmistakeable acrid smell of burned insulation and ozone, the motor windings may be just fine.
Gentlemen, thanks for your responses. The current motor is a 2hp DC leeson motor that is about 15 years old. It started making a slight noise ocassionally as it ran, especially at the slow rpm's and began to freeze up when trying to turn larger pieces 300-400 lbs and 22 to 25 inch diameter. Which is why I was hoping to get a 3 hp motor. This time it completely froze up with only a 14 inch bowl blank. I took the belts off to eliminate other possible causes and it still won't turn. Unfortunately, I have no electrical knowledge about whether its the brushes or something else, but due to your advice I will try to find someone who can take a look at it for me before I replace it. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help!
You sure it's not the bearings? Unless something mechanical with the windings or armature failed, an electrical failure would not prevent the motor from turning.
I agree with Richard - sounds mechanical and probably repairable at a local shop with new bearings, a cleaning, and while you're at it, have them look at the centrifugal starting switch if it has one.... ...there's no way that a motor of this size should be stalling-out if mounted on a well-operating lathe with a good spindle (the spindle/headstock should be taking the brunt of the load of the blank, not the motor shaft). With a confirmed good motor, you should also make sure the spindle runs true and any belt sheaves are perfectly aligned, as well as the position of the motor axis being parallel to the spindle axis, etc..
I hope it costs you a lot less to get back to turning than a total replacement of the motor! (Several years ago I had the motor from my Delta/Rockwell band saw serviced at our local motor shop with new bearings, capacitor, and switch components; it runs like a new motor, and it is about 50 years old!)
Good luck Thomas!
Rob Wallace
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Given that it is a DC motor, it very likely is not a real 2 HP motor. The HP output of a DC motor depends on its speed. It will put out its peak power somewhere near its maximum RPM and at its minimum RPM the power output will be very small. Horsepower ratings on DC motors need to be taken with a very large grain of salt.I have several routers, two of which are rated at 3+ HP, but that goes in the same category as the tooth fairy. If it has a nameplate on the motor, what is the voltage and full load current and maximum RPM?I'm thinking that if you replace it with an AC motor and VFD, you could use a 1 HP motor.
Many DC motors use plain sleeve bearings -- nothing wrong with them unless they are not lubricated periodically and go dry.
Generally, the first thing to wear out on a DC motor are the brushes and they are normally easy to replace. Most motors have the brushes accessible from the exterior. They will look like very large screw heads on the side of the motor housing. Those are actually cover plates. Once they are removed the brushes can be removed. They are carbon blocks with a spring on the back end. The carbon blocks should be fairly long. If they are nearly worn out, there may not be much left or maybe they have worn all the way to the spring which would cause a lot of noise. If that happens the commutator on the motor shaft may get damaged. Assuming that the commutator is OK, a new set of brushes will get you back in business. Some lower cost motors require you to open up the motor housing to get to the brushes.
Another thing about DC motors is they get very hot so they need a fan to keep cooling air circulating through it. If the air is full of turning and sanding dust, it will clog up the works pretty fast. The motor should be blown out often with compressed air and occasionally disassembled so that the bushings/bearings can be cleaned and lubricated. It is also likely that dust can get between the brushes and commutator and prevent the motor from running.
Many DC motors use plain sleeve bearings -- nothing wrong with them unless they are not lubricated periodically and go dry.
Generally, the first thing to wear out on a DC motor are the brushes and they are normally easy to replace. Most motors have the brushes accessible from the exterior. They will look like very large screw heads on the side of the motor housing. Those are actually cover plates. Once they are removed the brushes can be removed. They are carbon blocks with a spring on the back end. The carbon blocks should be fairly long. If they are nearly worn out, there may not be much left or maybe they have worn all the way to the spring which would cause a lot of noise. If that happens the commutator on the motor shaft may get damaged. Assuming that the commutator is OK, a new set of brushes will get you back in business. Some lower cost motors require you to open up the motor housing to get to the brushes.
Another thing about DC motors is they get very hot so they need a fan to keep cooling air circulating through it. If the air is full of turning and sanding dust, it will clog up the works pretty fast. The motor should be blown out often with compressed air and occasionally disassembled so that the bushings/bearings can be cleaned and lubricated. It is also likely that dust can get between the brushes and commutator and prevent the motor from running.
I talked with one of my students that has an engineering background and heard the noise prior to it locking up. He has also concluded that it is likely the bearings, and mention a the repair options and AC replacement option. So now I will have to explore the options now and hopefully get it up and running soon because my Jet mini is not much of a replacement for the Nichols lathe. Thanks again guys!
I have a friend whoes compressor stoped and was told it was seized so he bought a new one ,the he found it was the motor the repairer tried to sell him a new motor for $800 then found it was just the bearings cost$30 just a thought may pay to have it checked
Chears Ian
Chears Ian