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Motor driver problem on Delta DL 40 lathe

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Mar 3, 2010
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Hi All,

I have a Delta DL 40 lathe that stopped turning. As this doesn't do me a lot of good and I would like to fix it. I have found that the motor controller is not working and have not been able to find replacement parts for this old of a lathe. I remember there were some posts about replacing motors and controllers. Does anyone out there have suggestions for a source for motors and controllers that I can use as replacement parts? I have much more mechanical skill than electronic, so I should be able mount a different motor in to my system and I would probably like to put a "slightly" larger motor in if it will fit. Right now the lathe has a 1.5 hp motor and I think 2 hp would probably be OK. The lathe head construction is pretty solid.

Thanks
Ron
 

hockenbery

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Hi Ron,
I replaced a controller on a general260 and all I know about electricity is you can get shocked when you touch the wrong things,.

Try contacting Delta. they may have a controller or be able to suggest one for your lathe.
General was quite helpful.

I bought my controller from Radwell international. the salesman was quite helpful and I bought a surplus controller at about 1/2 price. surplus means it was returned. it was new in the box with a 1 year warranty. it took an extra day to get it shipped because radwell tests them before they send them.

the controllers are sized by the
input voltage and phase (mine was 220 AC single phase)
output voltage and phase (mine was 220 AC three phase)
Horsepower of the motor

the hard part for me was figuring out where all the wires connected to in the new controller. You will have input line wires that go in to the controller and output wires from the motor. these were well marked on the controller.

the wires from the switches can be confusing as my controller had about 30 terminals of which I needed to use 5 or 6.

I had nice diagram on the inside of the controller box that said what each color did. and a diagram from the both the old controller and the new one that showed the terminal function.

I also had to set a couple of parameters in the controller. This was also listed inside the box. You might take photo of all the wires before you disconnect any. be sure they are marked or color coded.


good luck
al
 
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Bill Boehme

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Hi All,

I have a Delta DL 40 lathe that stopped turning. As this doesn't do me a lot of good and I would like to fix it. I have found that the motor controller is not working and have not been able to find replacement parts for this old of a lathe. I remember there were some posts about replacing motors and controllers. Does anyone out there have suggestions for a source for motors and controllers that I can use as replacement parts? I have much more mechanical skill than electronic, so I should be able mount a different motor in to my system and I would probably like to put a "slightly" larger motor in if it will fit. Right now the lathe has a 1.5 hp motor and I think 2 hp would probably be OK. The lathe head construction is pretty solid.

Thanks
Ron

I did some searching and found that the lathe is really old, built by Invicta, uses a DC motor that develops about 1.25 HP peak HP (but the actual HP can be considerably less depending on speed and load conditions), and had a horrible reputation for breaking down. There were no AC variable frequency drives back then in 1987 (except for industrial), but this particular lathe utilized tachometer feedback which is rather impressive since DC speed controllers used on woodturning lathes today are a far sight less sophisticated (and less expenisve -- a replacement controller for this puppy went for around $1400).

The only useful information that I found was from the January 2004 Vancouver Woodturners newsletter, page 6. Rather than repeating things, just Click here for the link to the article. It has some really useful troubleshooting information from a knowledgeable guy. Who knows, your problem might even be the same as his.

Another thing that the author did not mention is that one of the motor brushes might have failed. After all, the motor is really old and brushes do wear out. They are easy to remove and replace and sometimes you can find them at a well stocked hardware store. They come in standard sizes so a dealer that handles motor brushes could help you. Also, if you did not check the internal fuses, that is the obvious first thing to do.

If worst comes to worst, I would go with an AC drive system rather than another DC system. AC systems use three-phase 4-pole induction motors. At the very least, get one that is rated as "Inverter Ready". The cost is tolerable and the only downside is that they can't be operated over base RPM (nominally around 1750 RPM). They also shouldn't be operated at very low RPM for extended periods since the external cooling fan will also be running at the same slow speed.

There are three basic types of variable frequency drives:

  1. The cheapest is V/Hz (Volts per Hertz). It is essentially open-loop which means the speed regulation is very dependent upon on the load. Also, their sped control is somewhat erratic at the slowest speeds.
  2. The next step up is the type most commonly known as "sensorless vector" (or variations on that designation). It does not utilize a direct motor speed feedback device, but instead makes a best-guess estimate of speed by the motor parameters that are stored in its memory and sensing the load current and knowing the controller's output voltage and driving frequency. How well they work depends on the vintage and brand. Avoid Yaskawa and Magnatek. I can vouch for the Toshiba "Tosvert" line as being excellent and performing almost as well as the top of the line vector controllers described next. This is the option that I would recommend for best performance for not a great deal over the cheap route.
  3. The ultimate in variable frequency drives are the true vector drives. These are industrial grade devices (with a matching industrial grade price tag) and use a motor speed feedback device -- most frequently is a 4096-line optical encoder, but they can also use tachometer feedback (now ancient technology). Their strong suit is that when matched with an appropriate motor designed for vector duty, they can operate from zero speed up to as much s 6,000 RPM. They can deliver full torque at zero speed (not particularly useful in woodturning) and full horsepower at maximum RPM (too fast for woodturning). Also, their speed regulation is phenomenal and can be better than ±0.1 RPM across the full load range. The motors that operate with these controllers are specially designed for this service and may operate with no external cooling blower or may have an external blower that is powered by a separate 120v shaded pole fan motor. I mention this option just in case money is no object -- the controllers run around $3000 and the motors also go for about the same price for motors in the 2 - 3 HP range.
 
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Dl 40

I love my lathe. I bought it about 30 years ago.

I am sure you have checked this but years ago I had a similar mystery in not starting. It turned out to be a safety switch on the door. I pray your problem should be so simple.
I am sure you are past this level of trouble shooting but I thought it was worth mentioning.
 
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Delta DL-40

I have the same lathe and motor. When I bought it, the controller was missing. I went to a local electric motor shop and they put a Baldor BC140 controller on it. The only problem I have with it is that the motor is too small for the lathe and I blow fuses if I get too aggressive. Based on the Baldor info, the BC140 controller will handle a 2HP-230V motor. This was a number of years ago and cost me about $250 for the controller and the labor to wire it. Hope this helps.
Tim Carter
 

Bill Boehme

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.... The only problem I have with it is that the motor is too small for the lathe and I blow fuses if I get too aggressive.....

The motor is the right size for the lathe. If you are blowing fuses in the shop fuse panel then the wiring is undersized. If you are blowing fuses in the controller then it should be programmable to set the maximum motor current to a lower value.

The real solution is to ease up on the bowl gouge. It may not make the fuse salesman happy, but the motor will thank you. :D
 
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