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Morse taper adaptor sleeve

Probably not much but I'm sure it's a little. I use them on my metal lathe all the time and things line up pretty good (although mine are 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 which are quite a bit larger). The biggest problem is getting the sleeve off to put it on another device. Some wood working equipment isn't built the same as metal working and may not have the length or tange that you use when you drive the wedge through the slot to release it.
 
I was going to say they don't make a #1 live center but they do, so I would factor in the cost of an adaptor for each before considering the price.

#1-#2 wouldn't be so bad, but a #1 to #3 (if you have a Oneway lathe) I wouldn't be too happy with.
 
ebay

Can get sleeve on ebay for $8 and no shipping. $6 from Grizzly plus freight. I may be able to get this for as low as $50 and is complete in box with cones. The large cone is the only reason I am interested as I have 3 #2 for Jet and PM and 1 set of cones. I like the One Way large cone as it can be used reversed.
 
Glue the tapers into the adapter.....

Gerald Lawrence said:
Can get sleeve on ebay for $8 and no shipping. $6 from Grizzly plus freight. I may be able to get this for as low as $50 and is complete in box with cones. The large cone is the only reason I am interested as I have 3 #2 for Jet and PM and 1 set of cones. I like the One Way large cone as it can be used reversed.
Click to expand...

Given how inexpensive Morse Taper adapter sleeves are, I would be inclined to make the drives/centers "permanently" MT2 by gluing the MT1 taper into the MT2 adapter sleeve using cyanoacrylate glue (clean the mating surfaces well with a solvent to assure no oils or debris are on the metal, dry thoroughly, and flood the taper with CA before inserting the taper into the sleeve). I see no need to have to remove the MT1 tools from the MT2 adapter sleeves (....unless of course you have a MT1 lathe that you need to use them on); buy as many sleeves as you need and convert them all to MT2. If needed, the CA-glued sleeves can be removed by heating the taper to break the glue bond and remove the sleeve from the MT1 taper.

It doesn't make sense to waste time trying to remove one sleeve adapter from the taper to use on multiple tools, particularly if you are getting a bargain price on the various MT1 accessories. Do the full conversion to MT2 ONCE and be done with it - your Powermatic's tapers are not going to change size. Just make sure the sleeves you buy are long enough for the auto-eject on your lathe to work properly, and that the knock-out rod will work.

Rob
 
Why would you bother to glue a morse taper into a sleeve? The whole idea of the morse tapers is that they fit and stay together once a little pressure has been applied. If you place the 1 to 2 sleeve into the quill & then place the no/ 1 drive centre into it, the pressure exerted by the tail-stock to hold some wood in place is enough to bed the two tapers together.
 
Cliff Walsh said:
Why would you bother to glue a morse taper into a sleeve? The whole idea of the morse tapers is that they fit and stay together once a little pressure has been applied. If you place the 1 to 2 sleeve into the quill & then place the no/ 1 drive centre into it, the pressure exerted by the tail-stock to hold some wood in place is enough to bed the two tapers together.
Click to expand...

Ditto.... I would not glue them.

I always need a drift key (drill press wedge) and a mallet to get them apart
Once pressed together it is a semi permanent joint until broken apart.

two sleeves is a good idea.
 
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as others have said, Morse tapers are self holding tapers, they will not come apart under "normal" use - with a large side load, the answer would be different, which is why mills with MT tapers have draw bars. But for your use, do not glue, it will only weaken the whole setup.
 
I also would discourage using CA even if it is the super thin variety. Morse tapers or any machine taper needs metal to metal contact for perfect alignment and anything between mating parts will only make the alignment worse. Besides that, putting CA on two parts that make an air tight connection is liable to result in CA being forcefully ejected when the parts are mated.
 
Yes, William, vibration is a taper loosener. Many of us, I expect, would have experienced a chuck coming out of the tail-stock at some time. That's why beginners are told (or should be told) to always hold the chuck with the left hand when winding a drill out of a turning. But that sort of calamity hasn't happened to anyone I know when the taper fitting is in the headstock.
 
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