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Modular Tool Handle

Tom Yip

Tom Yip

Joined
Aug 4, 2021
Messages
21
Likes
4
Location
Seattle, WA
For bowl gouges or tools with long handles, often times people would remove the handle for sharpening. There are a couple of quick release systems out there, however they are not cheap and the are permanently mounted to a handle of a fixed length. So if I want to use a handle of different lengths, I will need multiple chucks.

I’m wondering if anyone has tried making a modular handle. The handle in my mind consists of two sections. The first one would be a 12” section. On one end it connects to the gouge using an ER25/ER32 chucking system, and on the other end it connects to either a threaded end cab, or a threaded section of 4”, 8”, 10, or 12“, so one chuck and one chuck will work with basically all kinds of gouges?
 
I have a couple Kelton collet (ER32) handles each with 2 collets. I believe I have a Woodcut collet handle also has 2 collets. I have another that I don't recall the name (he sold a huge cast Iron wood lathe made in India I believe) and it came with a 5/8 gouge of some steel he wouldn't divulge what the steel was. And I have one of JoHannes Michelson's handles that works like a collet. Most of my handles though use grub screws and most of them are Thompson Tool Handles. One thing they all do is allow me to take the tool out of the handle for sharpening. Now I don't use the unknown handle much because it locks the tool in either dirtection (lefty loosey or righty tighty), what happens is I forget which way I tightened it and usually try unlocking it the wrong way which tightens it so tight I have to get the water pump pliers out to loosen it. The Keltons and the Woodcut are nice handles but I just don't use them much because I have so many of the grub screw ones (and the grub screw ones usually have a tool in them). If I were to demo somewhere other than my shop I have the Thompson Travel Pack that has 4 3/8" tools inside it. Tod Raines at the Woodturning Tool Store sells a modular handle, you could check that out.
 
I have several tool handles that use R8 collets called Big Stick tool handles. Unfortunately the guy who made them passed away. To see if I could make one without metal tools. I took a piece of PVC. Chucked it up and then supported the end with my steady rest. Turned the taper for the collets. I didnt have a metal ferrule to fit so wrapped it with Dentil floss and soaked it with CA. You have to buy metric all-thread rod to fit the collet. Originally I had a wooden knob that was pinned to the all-thread but when I did get my metal lathe I made the knurled knob. I thought this jury rigged system would not last long but over been using this handle for about 15 years. You can of course find hollow aluminum tubing and build one using my same technique. He used Heat shrink rubber tubing to go over the aluminum. I just painted my OVC. I forgot to say the R8 collets are really cheap. I bought a whole set so I change them out quickly and have any size I need.
 

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I responded to this in a prior post:

Keyless drill chuck for removable handle?

I have been woodturing with home made carbide cutters (even have youtube videos on their making) and decided I would like to get some 'traditional' woodturing tools. With that in mind I bought my first bowl gouge, a handless Lyle Jamison made by Thompson tools. I would like to mount in a...
www.aawforum.org www.aawforum.org

The PVC handle with the oak offset cam that I made was replaced with an aluminum tube and aluminum cam lock that was displayed in the links photo. Aluminum is easy to drill on a wood lathe.
 
Bill, was that the Serious Lathe guy? He did have a nice light weight padded handle with a collet type chuck in it. I do have some of the D Way handles with one knob on them which doesn't seem to get in the way. They do seem to vibrate loose if you are not paying attention and doing heavy roughing. I have wondered if there would be a chuck like the ones on the drill press where you could get a very secure grip, but you would need a chuck key.

robo hippy
 
Almost 20-years ago I attended a David Ellsworth demonstration in Ft. Worth - he did a little hollow-form. My limited recollection recalls that the rather long handles he used on his hollowing tools were wood with the tool shaft secured with a hose-clamp.
Being a "always do as David does" kinda woodturner, I've used hose clamps ever since - never a problem and the price is right. And if you used a 5/16" nut driver, they're quick release.
 
Hmm light bulb moment.. what with John's (Lucas) and John's (Tisdale) posts, thought occurs to me to see if I can make a quick change tool handle entirely of wood, I envision basically a threaded pipe cap with the center drilled out threaded on to the wooden handle as a ferrule, the handle tool end being shaped to a taper, (so the pipe cap JUST starts to thread on) then drilled to tool shaft size and a cross-kerf cut on bandsaw (or something), then you can slip in the tool shaft, tighten up the pipe cap, compressing the kerfed end to grip the tool shaft...

I'll have to see if I can do something like that.... I'm thinking electrical conduit union, perhaps instead of a cap.... or maybe something else... depending on what I have laying around in the shop.
 
Same here! Thanks everyone for the info and inspiration! I purchased these 2 items and going to do some experiment.

Hegebeck Collet Chuck Holder Straight CNC Milling Extension Rod C25 ER25 100L CNC Extension Rod Milling Holder Straight Shank Chuck Collet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DVJM7JX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HJK7TSPW4G260CNYAGPX

uxcell ER25 Spring Collet 5/8" Chuck for CNC Engraving Machine Lathe Milling Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NPWT1F5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VMZZG4RF355TEV44EFJX

I happen to have a piece of 1.5”x3.5”x22” IPE and I’ll use that as handle.

As for the ferrule I’m taking the chance and ordered the Robert Sorby’s 1-1/4” ferrule. Not sure if that too small for the chuck… will see when the chuck arrives. If it’s too small I need to think of something else.

I’m also thinking of using some sort of threadded pipe or plumbing fittings for the handle extension. Iron pipe can be too heavy, so I’m thinking of brass fittings at the moment. Will take a walk at the hardware store and get some ideas.

There will be more options for people who have a metal lathe.
 
robo hippy said:
Bill, was that the Serious Lathe guy? He did have a nice light weight padded handle with a collet type chuck in it. I do have some of the D Way handles with one knob on them which doesn't seem to get in the way. They do seem to vibrate loose if you are not paying attention and doing heavy roughing. I have wondered if there would be a chuck like the ones on the drill press where you could get a very secure grip, but you would need a chuck key.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
I have the serious lathe padded handle that has a 3/4" cam handle(see below). Camera shy is my 16-inch cam extension handle. Based on Serious Tool's design, I made a few 12" cam handles, eventually out of an aluminum tube and a 1" round insert that was drilled with a 3/4" offset to accommodate and lock in 3/4" adapter sleeves. That is shown to the right of the tool display.
 
I've made handles from 3/4" square heavy wall tubing and a collar with two setscrews to hold the gouge. It lets me adjust the length I want, or quickly slide out the gouge completely for sharpening.
 
Brian Gustin said:
I envision basically a threaded pipe cap with the center drilled out threaded on to the wooden handle as a ferrule, . I'm thinking electrical conduit union, perhaps instead of a cap.... or maybe something else... depending on what I have laying around in the shop.
Click to expand...
There a tapered brass fixture with internal threads that would be exactly what you describe. The tape on the one I have says, "1/2FL short nut". It works on a flare or maybe a compression fitting, if I recall correctly. the "1/2" size is probably a size or two smaller than you'd want. Probably available at HD. Like this:

1648600639094.jpeg
Seems like it would be easier and more durable to buy a Robust collet, though.
 
Dean Center said:
There a tapered brass fixture with internal threads that would be exactly what you describe. The tape on the one I have says, "1/2FL short nut". It works on a flare or maybe a compression fitting, if I recall correctly. the "1/2" size is probably a size or two smaller than you'd want. Probably available at HD. Like this:

View attachment 43903
Seems like it would be easier and more durable to buy a Robust collet, though.
Click to expand...
Yep , Flare nut for copper tubing, I may consider that as well, though the sizes go by Pipe size which is the I.D. of the pipe/tubing , so the O.D. would be a bit more than 1/2" - for a gouge handle though I'd probably want a 1" flare nut so there'd be plenty of wood to support gouge (Though it occurs to me the handle could be lined with something less compressible than wood) but I don't have those laying around the shop and I'm not about to go buy a bunch of fittings when I have other stuff laying around the shop (dozens of pipe fittings, caps, etc, from oil field work, and various home remodelings, leftovers from construction jobs, and so on.. 80-plus years of collection (since my Grandfather, then my Dad, then me.....lots of really old stuff laying around that they just don't make any more...)
 
john lucas said:
I have several tool handles that use R8 collets called Big Stick tool handles. Unfortunately the guy who made them passed away. To see if I could make one without metal tools. I took a piece of PVC. Chucked it up and then supported the end with my steady rest. Turned the taper for the collets. I didnt have a metal ferrule to fit so wrapped it with Dentil floss and soaked it with CA. You have to buy metric all-thread rod to fit the collet. Originally I had a wooden knob that was pinned to the all-thread but when I did get my metal lathe I made the knurled knob. I thought this jury rigged system would not last long but over been using this handle for about 15 years. You can of course find hollow aluminum tubing and build one using my same technique. He used Heat shrink rubber tubing to go over the aluminum. I just painted my OVC. I forgot to say the R8 collets are really cheap. I bought a whole set so I change them out quickly and have any size I need.
Click to expand...
I really like your idea and started looking at the materials needed. A set of R8 collets ranging from 1/8 thru 3/4 should cover my needs. 1" schedule 160 seamless aluminum pipe is I think I saw 1.310"OD with .250" wall. Have a friend who would turn the taper and a ferrule. The collets I looked at had 7/16"-20 threads, Grainger stocks the althread in 24" lengths. I'm curious as to the thickness of your handle and would a ferrule be needed with 1/4" thick taper? Thanks!
 
Dean Center said:
There a tapered brass fixture with internal threads that would be exactly what you describe. The tape on the one I have says, "1/2FL short nut". It works on a flare or maybe a compression fitting, if I recall correctly. the "1/2" size is probably a size or two smaller than you'd want. Probably available at HD. Like this:

View attachment 43903
Seems like it would be easier and more durable to buy a Robust collet, though.
Click to expand...
The biggest one I can find online so far is 1-1/16" OD and it's not cheap. May be local plumbing stores have a better price.
 
robo hippy said:
Bill, was that the Serious Lathe guy? He did have a nice light weight padded handle with a collet type chuck in it. I do have some of the D Way handles with one knob on them which doesn't seem to get in the way. They do seem to vibrate loose if you are not paying attention and doing heavy roughing. I have wondered if there would be a chuck like the ones on the drill press where you could get a very secure grip, but you would need a chuck key.

robo hippy
Click to expand...
Reed yes he's the one. The flute goes the entire length of the tool and is held securely by the collet. I should probably sell it as I don't use it but I would have to take a big loss on it.
 
If you dont mind set screws (vs collets) these from Cindy Drozda work very well. I prefer diy wood handles. If I wanted modular length, I would use these in both ends of segment 1, and epoxy a short piece of steel rod ~4” long into segment 2, and insert into the back oof segment 1. Can be as many segments as you want. Could do some bariations on steel rod dia to use different tools in the “other end” of handles. Cindy’s are aluminum, Hasoluk are steel.

Cindy Drozda - Tool Handle Adapters

Elegant, Exquisite, Museum Quality Lidded Finial Vessels and Urns hand made by Woodturner and Artist, Cindy Drozda. Woodturning instruction, Demonstrations and Instructional DVDs.
www.cindydrozda.com
 
As I previously stated above, I own a Serious Tool 16" long cam-action handle with an optional 16" extension. I have enjoyed using this for many years but Serious is out of business and I ran out of 3/4" adapter sleeves for my newly acquired tools. So I have been making my own adapters.

I also wanted a shorter cam handle for spindle turning which I have made. Jimmy Clewes has a cam mechanism but the largest size he can accommodate is 5/8" and I wanted it to be 3/4". (Although 5/8" is a good size for most turning tools.)

When designing my new handle, I wanted to keep the ability to change turning tools rapidly while turning and for removal to facilitate sharpening. I considered ER32, but concluded that I didn't want to change collet sizes to accommodate different diameter tools. I decided to continue to make steel sleeve adapters for all my tools. After all, not all turning tools are round, some are square, and some have tangs. With a Round 3/4" x3" sleeve adapter all tools will fit in the same 3/4 collet or in my case 3/4 cam. The sleeves are of soft steel rods that are drilled out on my wood lathe followed by tapping a set screw near the top of the adapter to secure the tool to the sleeve. The sleeves cost about 1-2 bucks apiece and the cam was fabricated from 1" aluminum rod costing about $12 for a 12" piece. This is the cheapest path and most flexible in covering most of my tools. I also use these 3/4 cam-action handles for Andre Martel Hook tools 3/4 handle and the 3/4" Dennis Stuart tool as well. In operation, it is the most efficient way to change out tools except for having a dedicated handle for each tool.

Just thought I would share my handle-making journey with the group.
 
I remember some turner doing a demo for our club and he tossed his handle to some one in the club. Catch was made, and the surprise was the weight. He had used aluminum tubing, and inserts in the end. Just the tubing is cold in the hands in winter and your hands get black from handling them, but golf club tape, or some thing similar, could fix that. I still prefer wood handles.

robo hippy
 
Here are three handles using the Robust collets, two ER25 and one ER32. They are expensive but worth it. I prefer the ER25 because they are much lighter. But a 3/4" gouge requires going to ER32.

20220331_140733.jpg
 
So I received the prove-of-concept ER25 straight shank chuck today, and fortunately it’s a deal breaker.

1. If I only use my hands to tighten up the chuck, I can’t get it to grab the tool tight enough so it doesn’t rotate.

2. The chuck adds almost a pound to the tool, assuming I’m using IPE as handle - the IPE handle is almost as heavy as the aluminum Thompson handle so just using the Thompson’s handle for simulation.

Bottom line, for $30 it’s cheaper than any quick release systems out there, but it’s inconvenient. FE50D007-FD47-4BE9-91C4-27974E8C0BC8.jpeg0186AE8A-B025-4FA3-BC94-DCDD58D4B628.jpegAB72D6F9-F6DE-4A5E-8F0B-0B29DA52D4AD.jpeg
 
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