Modular quick change drive centers for chucks

[erimille]

I've been thinking more and more about the possibility of using a nice chuck as my primary (almost permanent) tool for bowl, spindle work, etc. One of the limitations of this idea (in my mind) is the lack of drive centers, accessories, etc. for chucks to make this possible.

Recently, however I ran across 2 & 4 flute quick change drive centers for Nova, Vicmarc and Oneway chucks [1]. Has anyone used these? If so, are there issues / limitations with this approach?

As I would expect to only be able to get 1, what are the differences between 2 and 4 flute drive centers?

--eric

[1] http://www.store.yahoo.com/bestwoodtools/2flutquiccha.html

 

[dkulze]

The four flute center has two more of those metal thingies on it than the two flute.


Heh, heh.

Not completely sure why the difference is needed but I know that the 4 flute is kinda the standard. If you're going to get one, I'd get that one. I'm assuming the 2 flute is for really soft wood that you need to sink it deep in or something.

Dietrich

 

[Rick-U]

Spot On About the "Two Thingie"

Dietrich,

The "Two Thingie" is indeed for soft wood or natural edge where you need it to bite through the bark. I have one and it worked great until I changed lathes and don't yet have the larger insert.

 

[erimille]

Dietrich,

The "Two Thingie" is indeed for soft wood or natural edge where you need it to bite through the bark. I have one and it worked great until I changed lathes and don't yet have the larger insert.

Ah! thanks for explaining the 2 v 4 flute.

Part of the reason I've been thinking of the notion of the quick change for the drive center is simply I plan on (eventually) upgrading my lathe. Worse case then I'd only have to buy a new chuck insert to then re-use the accessories.

That being said, if this would make a lot of sense I would have thought I'd find a wide variety of after-market drive centers, faceplates, various screws, etc. for each of the major chuck manufacturers. Not seeing these availiable, I've thought perhaps this doesn't make much sense.

With eventually stumbling across the modular quick drive center I started thinking I wasn't so crazy, but I'd appreciate learning from other far more experienced than I if I am 🙂

--eric

 

[erimille]

...
Not completely sure why the difference is needed but I know that the 4 flute is kinda the standard. If you're going to get one, I'd get that one.
...

yep... thats my thinking as well. Thanks!

--eric

 

[erimille]

Dietrich,

The "Two Thingie" is indeed for soft wood or natural edge where you need it to bite through the bark. I have one and it worked great until I changed lathes and don't yet have the larger insert.

Rick-U,

Your post reminded me of the perhaps obvious fact that while the modular design might indeed be elegant, there may be drive centers that fit my lathe that I can get for less 🙂 Navigating the site, I found the want-ads and posted a request there.

I'm still interested to hear from folks that have tried this modular design, but if I can get started finding a used, quality drive (along with a live center) i'll take it!

--eric

 

[C Edward Moore]

chuck drive center

I have the Oneway chuck drive center that I can use in my lever-operated Oneway chuck and in the wrench operated Talon chuck. When I put that center in the chuck, tighten it, and turn the lathe on I am always amazed at how that center is "dead on" and the point looks motionless.

2 v 4 flute centers. Part of the bowl-making process is learning to orient a chunk of wood so that the resulting bowl has some symmetry. Experienced bowl-turners may start the process between centers, turn a little, and then shift the placement of the spur center or the tailcenter to obtain better symmetry or balance. Some who are quite particular about this choose the 2-flute centers because they are easier to re-center on an odd shapped piece than the 4-flute.

 

[erimille]

I have the Oneway chuck drive center that I can use in my lever-operated Oneway chuck and in the wrench operated Talon chuck. When I put that center in the chuck, tighten it, and turn the lathe on I am always amazed at how that center is "dead on" and the point looks motionless.

Ah! So someone has done this 🙂 Any apparent difference in using this vs a morse taper drive center?

ps: and thanks for the additional info re 2 v 4!

--eric

 

[C Edward Moore]

chuck centers, Texas spur drive, quick change spur

Eric,

I have the Stubby 500, little brother to the 750, and when I have a wide piece to mount I cannot use a "long" spur center. Using the chuck center in the Talon extends out too far. Sooooo, I got a Texas spur drive center from Best Wood Tools, and this big boy screws on the spindle. They are available with 2, 4, and 6 flutes and they are 1 1/2" in diameter at the flutes. I jokingly think you could mount one of these on your lathe, turn up the speed, and mulch small logs. 😀 😀 You know that Tim Allen would have chosen this one.

Best Wood Tools also has a chuck spur that would fit a Talon chuck with #2 jaws. They have similar spurs for different brands of chucks, such as Nova, Vicmarc, and Stronghold. This style chuck spur is gripped by the rims of the jaws.

The Oneway chuck spur is gripped by the body of the jaw near the body of the chuck. I have found it to be quite securely held.

You asked about the spurs on Morse tapers. They can slip and they don't have the heft of a Texas drive spur.

When mounting a large green bowl blank on the Stubby, my choice is the Texas drive spur from BWT.

Best Wood Tools

 

[Jake Debski]

Eric,
I have the 2 spur version for my Oneway Talon. I bought it on the recomendation of a respected turner I know. The advantage of the 2 spur is in green turning (roughing out) blanks. If the blank is not perfectly flat the 2 spur can be driven in deeper to catch more wood. I also use it to true up dried roughouts, once again the 2 spurs catch more surface of a warped bowl interior than a 4 spur can. Just my "2" cents. 😀

 

[sigurd]

drive centers for chucks.

I have the Nova spur drive which I have used in my Super Nova chuck and in my Oneway Stronghold. I don't recommend it, because the four points of the spur drive are pretty short and often tear out and slip. For turning spindles and small things like bud vases, I use a dead center in the headstock. I have one that is long enough to reach through the chuck and seat in the Morse Taper of the spindle. This lets me turn the piece and put a tenon on it for suqsequent chucking without removing the chuck. I am going to check with Best Wood Tools to see if they may add such a dead center to their product line. Also, the same idea would work with a spur drive long enough to reach through a chuck into the Morse Taper.

 

[GeeSeaWhy]

Advantages of chuck-mounted spur drive

1. It's faster. You can remove the spur drive and mount the blank in your chuck without having to first mount the chuck.
2. I have heard it said that the chuck-mounted spur puts less stress on the spindle for large blanks than a MT spur. I don't know how true that is.

I'll second Sigurd's comment about the Nova spur drive - it's an unusual design and there's probably a reason nobody else has copied it - it spins in the wood if you cut too aggressively. It's always a race to form a tenon before it just won't hold any more.

Graeme