Modifications to a Jet 12-20 lathe

[ebrannon]

I recently acquired a Jet 12-20 lathe for use when I travel. I needed something with more capacity than the 10-14, and also one I would leave in an outdoor shed in Florida all summer. But not so big that I could not single handedly lift this to my bench. At 105, it is a struggle, but I can do it.

Now I am thinking about how I can tune it to function better. Anyone have have jigs, bearing changes, custom banjo's, tailstock modifications, or anything that made the lathe easier to use and perform better?

I did a few tweaks to my 10-12 adding aftermarket changes that made a difference, and was wondering if anyone had anything to suggest.

Ed Brannon

 

[billooms]

About the only thing I can suggest is get a better tool rest -- I changed to a Robust tool rest. Get a good live center for the tailstock and a good chuck and you're all set.

I have no complaints about the bearings or the banjo after about 3 years of use.

The only thing that I find annoying is the design of the trap door on the left to get at the belt -- I would like to have an easier way to get at the belt (mine is not the variable speed).

 

[john lucas]

New tool rest a must. I would also change the tailstock locking plate. The little round one just doesn't lock well enough. I made my own but someone on the net sells them. Hopefully someone will remember and post a link here.

 

[Lou Kinsey]

http://monster-lathe-tools.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=255&category_id=64

 

[john lucas]

Thanks Lou, That's it. I highly recommend these for all the Jet mini's and clones of the Jet including the Rikon.

 

[DOCworks]

I have a 12-20 that I have "updated" a bit. I put extention handle on the banjo and tail stock. I removed the round locking plate on the tail stock with a milled square one. The tailstock does not move. I also reccommed the tool rest change already suggested. Robust are the best, even better than the extra I make. That useless lamp that comes with it...well I put a piece of angle aluminum on the back side and put a LED from Ikea on it and between the two you get plenty of light even in low light demo areas. If you want pictures give me a PM and I'll send them. David Ellsworth has turned on it and thought the upgrades were "not bad". Oh I also put quick release hardware between the lathe and the factory stand and locking wheels from WoodCraft. (I think there are better solutions)

 

[Rob Wallace]

An easy and inexpensive "tweak" that pays off long time.....

Hi Ed!

One of the easiest and least expensive ways of enhancing the performance of this lathe (and any others with similar situations) is to ease all of the sharp edges of the castings and the milled mating surfaces on the lathe bed (ways), as well as all edges of the machined surfaces of the bottom of the banjo and tail stock (but not the flat surfaces themselves!). When getting a new lathe (I have done this with a Jet 1014 mini, the Jet 1220, an older Jet 1236, and my 1642-2HP lathes; [I don't expect to have to do it to the Robust I'm getting this week!]) you may find that the machined edges on these mating surfaces are very sharp and can often dig-in when sliding them into position. I simply take a mill file and perhaps some carbide abrasive paper on a block and file down and polish all of the sharp edges a bit to ultimately put a small (ca. 1/16") rounded chamfer on all four edges of the ways along their entire length, and on all edges of the bottoms of the banjo and tailstock surfaces. This reduces or eliminates any "dig-in" of the machined edges into the lathe bed, and permits those parts that are supposed to slide to do it well and effortlessly. For those lathes with sliding headstocks, the machined surface edges on the underside of the headstock should also be lightly chamfered and polished as well. All of these little 'tweakings' usually have to be done only ONCE in the life of the lathe, and will immediately increase the smoothness of operation of the moving parts. On the Jet 1220 it should take no more than 45 minutes to an hour to do all of the edges and you're done.

I also do periodic (2-4 times a year) routine maintenance of the lathe bed by using a rubberized abrasive block (Klingspor's fine "rust eraser") followed by a good cleaning with mineral spirits, and then immediately sealing the lathe bed with Bostik Top Cote. This eliminates any build-up of resin, dried sap, oils, etc. and allows smooth function of the banjo and tailstock.

I did change-out the round washer in the tailstock with one of the Monster aftermarket locking nuts, and they do work very well as advertized.

In all, it is a great lathe for the money - I just spent 7+ hours demonstrating on one during our local art festival this past Sunday!

Rob Wallace

 

[ebrannon]

thanks

Thanks for all the good advice.

I am assuming the Monster square blocks made for mini lathes also fit the 12-20? I think of it as a Mini Lathe- HEAVY.

On the banjo and tool rest front, One Way makes a replacement banjo that is quite nice. It is the same one that is on their 12-36 lathe. Positive is I can use all my tool rests (as least the low profile ones) with it. Negative is the bugger is pricey.

Anyone ever try it out?

Alternative is to do what some of you recommended - just turn myself bigger knobs and smooth everything out and use the stock banjo.

Ed

 

[Gynia]

New tool rest a must. I would also change the tailstock locking plate. The little round one just doesn't lock well enough. I made my own but someone on the net sells them. Hopefully someone will remember and post a link here.

Oneway sells clamp blocks for $15. I would never imagine that Oneway would be a cheaper alternative for anything woodturning but there you have it.

http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=109&Itemid=2