Miter Saw Cuts have a gouge/uneven surface

[DaveL]

I have a Bosch 12" Miter saw and when i make cuts with it the cut is uneven. When you look at the cut it looks like the blade flexes when it first starts to cut through the board and after about 1/4" it straightens out and then continues cutting. I have inspected the saw and everything is tight and i do not detect any motor bearing slop.
When i first got the saw it came with a blade and just assumed it was a cheap blade but i finally bought a Jesada Miter Blade so i shouldn't be having this problem.

I am trying to use it to cut segments but the cut is so poor that i can't glue the pieces together because of the gap on the top edge.

Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank You,

Dave

 

[unidave]

Saw slop

It may be the wood is moving when the cut starts. Have you tried clamping it as a test? How fast do you make the cut? Blade clean?

 

[DaveL]

Saw Slop

I have clamped the wood, pulled the saw down slow and fast. No change. I tried putting a twisting motion on the handle to conteract the slow with no change either.

The Jesada blade is new so i discounted dirty and dull blade.

Dave

 

[unidave]

Is the saw a "slide" saw? (the head slides in and out?) Compound mitre?
Can you duplicate the cut while "twisting" left AND right?

 

[TurnedAround]

It could be the blade is stablizing as it goes deeper into the wood it is cutting. Therefore, the initial contact of the blade to the piece may be where it takes the wobble out of your blade and reduces the vibration through the rest of the cut.

Try a blade stablizer and see if that helps.

Best of luck, Larry

 

[Mark Mandell]

Wiggle

Dave,

I had the very same problem while doing flatwork miters with my LS-1211 until I put a full kerf blade on it. Seems the 12" saws are great for timber framers, but if you want cut accuracy, go with a 10" saw or a table saw/sled combination; the usual 12" blades just flex way too much. I'm surprised about your Jesada blade, however, as that's the brand I bought, although they may have gone thinner in the 6 years since I got mine. I seem to remember there being add-on blade stiffeners for some of the 12" chops; check with Forrest or Systematic.

M

 

[Russ Fairfield]

A common problem is not letting the blade come up to full speed before entering the wood. Every blade goes through a vibration harmonic as it comes up to speed. If you don't let the blade get past that unstable RPM, the result is what you are seeing.

If that doesn't solve the problem, it could be the 12" blade, and especially if you are using a "thin kerf" blade. As someone said, it could be fluttering until it hits the wood. Buy a thicker blade or add stabilizer plates to remove any flutter. That is why they sell those things.

 

[MichaelMouse]

A common problem is not letting the blade come up to full speed before entering the wood. Every blade goes through a vibration harmonic as it comes up to speed. If you don't let the blade get past that unstable RPM, the result is what you are seeing.

That's the one. More than the blade, watch your wrist twist as it lowers. Seems it always does, and the safety switch position is such that you almost have to rotate it to maintain a comfortable grip, and put a bit of left dig into the piece.

Used to have the kids clamp the piece, grip the switch, and then press down with the opposite hand open when they were cutting critical miters, though it will never provide the kind of accuracy a tablesaw sled or a disk sander sled will.

 

[DaveL]

Thank You

Everyone,

Thanks for the info and guidance. I will have to buy another blade and see if that solves the problem. I am disappointed that i have contacted Bosch twice on this any they never answer, i guess customer satisfaction is pretty low on their priorities.

Thanks Again,
Dave