Milwaukee Close Quarter Drill Disassembly Help

[Daniel Warren]

I'm sure many of you use the Milwaukee close quarter drill. I have a collection of them at this point. I have two with stripped bevel gears. I have sourced some bevel gears. My question is, has anyone removed the bevel gear and if you did, did you remove the outer bearing or did you have to remove the chuck and middle bearing? It looks like the outer bearing can be pulled then I'd have access to the gear? Any insight would be helpful.

 

[Joe Kaufman]

No clue from the service parts list - https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-06-0373.pdf
How did you get the assembly shown out of the item #5 gear box? Does the gear box split in half?
I have two of the drills but haven't had any problems.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

Looking at the parts break down the chuck could stay on and the bearing would need to be removed then the bevel gear should be next.
Does your source for the bevel gear include the gear for the original Sioux drill or are they the same?

 

[Daniel Warren]

I pulled that last bearing but the bevel gear isn’t coming off with ease so far. I found 3 “genuine” Milwaukee bevel gears on eBay.

The bevel gears are the weak point in these drills, the plastic casing gets hot and flexes, causing a gap between the gears, slippage, then they chip.

 

[Brian Gustin]

I'd have to wonder if the bevel gear & shaft are all one piece - It was fairly common with Ridgid/Ryobi which are the same tool as Milwaukee (Milwaukee is the "top of the line", Ridgid is mid-line and Ryobi the bottom end when it comes to the TTI brands - I used to be a warranty center for them... did lots of Ridgid stuff.) You say you sourced new bevel gears, did you actually get them in yet, and are you sure they're correct part number (Would need the full model and sometimes the serial number of the tool for parts lookup) Otherwise, appears to me to be a press fit gear which you'd need to pop the chuck off and bearing from other side, and then a hydraulic press with some heat (propane torch) to ease the gears off (Then to assemble , stick shaft in freezer for a few hours and soak the new gear in 120 degree hot oil and have to be quick and precise at getting the gear back on shaft in correct location... hence why I suspect OEM would be a shaft & bevel gear assembly)

Usually when the gears were meant to come off they were just a light friction fit, in my experience (and keyed in place - another clue to it being one piece is lack of keyway in the gear)

 

[odie]

@Daniel Warren , or anyone who is interested:

Note: I have several of these Milwaukee and Sioux 55° angle drills that have various problems......mostly bad bearings. If anyone wants one of these, send me a PM and you can have one of them for free, except for the shipping cost.

-o-

 

[Daniel Warren]

Well @odie, I know how to remove at least one bearing.

@Brian Gustin I don’t have the bevel gears in my possession yet, but in the Milwaukee parts diagram they are separate from the shaft, but removal may prove more difficult than this is worth.

 

[stu senator]

The gear is welded or brazed to the disk.
Possibly better (more expensive) steel for the gear
vs the disk.
No manufacturer of a non critical, cost sensitive item would design an item where you machine so much steel from a large bar to the shaft size. The disk is pressed on the shaft as it is much cheaper that way.
You would need to remove the shaft and bearing to replace the gear unless the gear you are looking at includes the shaft.

 

[robo hippy]

Milwaukee no longer makes them, so getting pieces may be difficult, and more so as time goes by. I am not sure if Sioux makes them any more or not. Milwaukee did start making their own variation, and the trigger had a rubberized cover over it.

robo hippy