john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I finally had time to get back in the shop and give another try at making really really really small goblets. My last ones were small but kind of ugly in shape so I concentrated more on shape this time. It's still hard to fine tune the shape since the stems measure from about .010" to about .015. I don't have a good way to measure them yet. I was visually comparing them to wire that I could measure with calipers.
The first is a photo of my setup. I had to jury rig a way to move the stereo microscope in very small increments to position it correctly. I rigged my camera bellows attachment rail to the microscope and then attached that to a cross feed vise. That gave me 3 axis which helped a lot.
I attached the wood which is smaller than a match stick to a pin chuck and put that in my big chuck with extended jaws. The tool rest is 3/8" x 3/4" x 1/8" and is attached to the big 1" bar to go into my Powermatic banjo. You can actually move this massive rig a few thousandths to reposition the small tool rest. I love the powermatic for this reason alone.
Laying on the tool rest are my tools. The big roughing out tools are .025" piano wire and the small ones are .015" piano wire. ONe is a skew and the other is a spindle gouge. I used the skew mostly. I shaped and sharpened them on fine and ultra fine diamond hones. Through the microscope it looked like I was sharpening them on the sidewalk. Very rough looking but left a clean edge.
I hope to get a better photo of the goblets than this. I just don't have the equipment at home anymore. Before the great digital revolution I had all the necessary equipment but had to sell it and buy the new junk which is more expensive and won't do the job.
The smallest goblet is .040" high or about as high as a penny is thick. I think that's about as small as I can go because I started blowing up the goblet heads and feet. Don't know why I didn't break any stems because they are about .010" thick. I used Tulip wood for the small ones. I don't know what the big one is. Believe it or not they will stand up. I undercut the base with the toe of the skew just like I do on the big ones. When I do the good photos I'll try to stand them up.
The first is a photo of my setup. I had to jury rig a way to move the stereo microscope in very small increments to position it correctly. I rigged my camera bellows attachment rail to the microscope and then attached that to a cross feed vise. That gave me 3 axis which helped a lot.
I attached the wood which is smaller than a match stick to a pin chuck and put that in my big chuck with extended jaws. The tool rest is 3/8" x 3/4" x 1/8" and is attached to the big 1" bar to go into my Powermatic banjo. You can actually move this massive rig a few thousandths to reposition the small tool rest. I love the powermatic for this reason alone.
Laying on the tool rest are my tools. The big roughing out tools are .025" piano wire and the small ones are .015" piano wire. ONe is a skew and the other is a spindle gouge. I used the skew mostly. I shaped and sharpened them on fine and ultra fine diamond hones. Through the microscope it looked like I was sharpening them on the sidewalk. Very rough looking but left a clean edge.
I hope to get a better photo of the goblets than this. I just don't have the equipment at home anymore. Before the great digital revolution I had all the necessary equipment but had to sell it and buy the new junk which is more expensive and won't do the job.
The smallest goblet is .040" high or about as high as a penny is thick. I think that's about as small as I can go because I started blowing up the goblet heads and feet. Don't know why I didn't break any stems because they are about .010" thick. I used Tulip wood for the small ones. I don't know what the big one is. Believe it or not they will stand up. I undercut the base with the toe of the skew just like I do on the big ones. When I do the good photos I'll try to stand them up.