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MICRO MESH

M

Michael Perez

Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Messages
254
Likes
64
Location
Lima, Peru
Hello, I was thinking of buying Micro-Mesh Pen-Sanding Pads at lee valley ( https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/sanding/discs-and-pads/62127-micro-mesh-pen-sanding-pads )and I have a question: do I need to use all nine grits from 1500 to 12,000 or can I use them interleaved?

Any advice or brand you can recommend? I’m not planning to use CA glue I like to finish my products with friction polish.
pads and I have a question: do I need to use all nine grits from 1500 to 12,000 or can I use them interleaved?
 
I use Micro-Mesh on my pens and they are great for acrylic and casted blanks. I would use all of the grits in order. As you use them they build up a progressive gloss. Two things I have learned using them, do not press hard or the coating on the pad will rub off onto the finish, and also I tend to use them on bare wood, I would not use them over a friction polish.
 
Gabriel Hoff said:
I use Micro-Mesh on my pens and they are great for acrylic and casted blanks. I would use all of the grits in order. As you use them they build up a progressive gloss. Two things I have learned using them, do not press hard or the coating on the pad will rub off onto the finish, and also I tend to use them on bare wood, I would not use them over a friction polish.
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Thank you so much. I was thinking in using the micro mesh with mineral oil as a lubricant and after it the The final finish with a friction polish (doctors woodshop).
 
Use all 9 grits. You will find that after 4000 it does not change the finish by much and I don’t spend much time at the higher grits. Last for years and you can wash it, but I just blow it off with air. I agree with Gabriel as not not press hard and not over friction polish. Also keep the speed somewhat low as you can “burn” it. I have only used the 3 X 6 sheets. Pads were not available when I first started to use it. Works very well on CA finish and acrylics followed up by some type of plastic polish.
 
I see no reason to sand wood any finer than a 320 sanding pad. I can't see any scratches at that grit and it just seems like a waste of time to go finer. You have to be careful with those super fine grits with those tiny pads. If I didn't convince you, because you can burn through the abrasive and into the foam if you put any pressure on them at all.
 
Richard Coers said:
I see no reason to sand wood any finer than a 320 sanding pad. I can't see any scratches at that grit and it just seems like a waste of time to go finer. You have to be careful with those super fine grits with those tiny pads. If I didn't convince you, because you can burn through the abrasive and into the foam if you put any pressure on them at all.
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We each have our preferences. For pens IMO 320 is not near enough, scratches will show and finish is dull on pens. I have been there. I have never used the pads, just the 3 X 6 sheets and never burned though the sheets. I have used a set for years. I recommend micro mesh for pens. I also use it on small turnings.
 
Richard Coers said:
I see no reason to sand wood any finer than a 320 sanding pad. I can't see any scratches at that grit
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I can agree with that, if we're discussing sanding with the grain on flatwork.
 
Many domestic hardwoods 400 is good enough, still I often sand to 600. Walnut still shows 600 scratches, and sometimes even 800 power sanding scratches; I’m considering getting a small RO sander just for this purpose.

I don’t see a need for higher grits on woods. When sanding/polishing the finish on pens (CA, acrylic) I go through all the higher micro mesh pad grits.
 
William Rogers said:
Use all 9 grits. You will find that after 4000 it does not change the finish by much and I don’t spend much time at the higher grits. Last for years and you can wash it, but I just blow it off with air. I agree with Gabriel as not not press hard and not over friction polish. Also keep the speed somewhat low as you can “burn” it. I have only used the 3 X 6 sheets. Pads were not available when I first started to use it. Works very well on CA finish and acrylics followed up by some type of plastic polish.
Click to expand...
thank you so much I just bought some pads from 1500 to 4000 to try it out
 
Richard Coers said:
I see no reason to sand wood any finer than a 320 sanding pad. I can't see any scratches at that grit and it just seems like a waste of time to go finer. You have to be careful with those super fine grits with those tiny pads. If I didn't convince you, because you can burn through the abrasive and into the foam if you put any pressure on them at all.
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Thank you so much I’ll try abranet sanding sheets I bought from 220 to 600 .
 
Ron Solfest said:
Many domestic hardwoods 400 is good enough, still I often sand to 600. Walnut still shows 600 scratches, and sometimes even 800 power sanding scratches; I’m considering getting a small RO sander just for this purpose.

I don’t see a need for higher grits on woods. When sanding/polishing the finish on pens (CA, acrylic) I go through all the higher micro mesh pad grits.
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Thank you so much looks like for general work between 400 to 800 is enough.
 
If I'm doing pens or bottle stoppers using friction polish I sand to 320/400 grit. If I'm doing higher end pens I use GluBoost and Micro-Mesh products and then finish with liquid auto polish. Either Meguiar's or Nu Finish .
 
Bill Blasic said:
If I'm doing pens or bottle stoppers using friction polish I sand to 320/400 grit. If I'm doing higher end pens I use GluBoost and Micro-Mesh products and then finish with liquid auto polish. Either Meguiar's or Nu Finish .
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Hello thank you so much, makes sense excellent im just thinking exactly the same now feel more confident.
 
On my bowls, I sand to 400, and then use the grey synthetic steel wool pads to put on the walnut oil. As long as I have done a good job with the lower grits, I can not see any scratches. The grey stuff is supposed to be in that 600 grit range. If you are seeing marks after that, they come from the lower grits. Some will say that you sand up to about 400 or 600 grit, and above that, you are just polishing out scratches from the lower grits.

robo hippy
 
What's really frustrating, is after sanding up to 600gt, some fine 600gt sanding scratches appear after applying my favorite finish.....(Danish oil natural)

The 600gt sanding is done on the lathe, and therefore is in a circular concentric pattern. The good thing, is these 600gt sanding scratches can be removed before, or AFTER the Danish oil has been applied, by using 600gt sandpaper by hand, in a random orbit fashion. Since the Danish oil saturates the wood while penetrating, the finish isn't destroyed by the light random orbit sanding. It's a good preparation for the 3-step Beall buffing method, and it's first step Tripoli abrasive. (Note: There are times when I feel it's necessary to use 1500gt Micromesh as a follow-up to the 600gt RO.....all depends on the wood in use at that moment.....it's a judgement call.)

I have evolved to having three separate inspections of my bowls for sanding scratches. Once just prior to applying the Danish Oil. Once after the Danish oil is fully cured.....and, a third time just prior to buffing. The solution is almost always 600gt RO by hand. Even if you've started buffing, and at any point in the three steps, you see scratches that you missed, you can still use the 600gt RO at that point, as long as you back up in the Beall process.

-----odie-----
 
I use all nine grits when I use them. I use them on pendants and pens (acrylic and CA finishes). I have found that wet sanding with them works much better than when dry.
 
Steve Doerr said:
I use all nine grits when I use them. I use them on pendants and pens (acrylic and CA finishes). I have found that wet sanding with them works much better than when dry.
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Thank you I think I’ll use it also wet but I’d prefer to use it with mineral spirits than water. Do you think is ok?
 
I use a lubricant as well. The type is really dependent on what finish I am going to use. I will use water without any issues if applying a water-based poly for example. ( I am prepared to deal with grain raising and sanding after the first or second coat anyway.) I will not use water if I am going to apply CA to wood or wood-acrylic turning. Additional moisture in the wood can act as an accelerator. That could be either good or bad. Don't ask how I know. Whatever you use, you should consider whether you need drying time between your lubricant and what finish you are going to use or what finish is already on the piece.

I did use alcohol, but right now with the new laws, it's been difficult to get. I read somewhere that it's ok to substitute isopropyl alcohol for denatured so I tried it.
Actually, I used medical alcohol wipes and micromesh on an acrylic-burl-poured box. It was working great until I got to the 9th mico mesh. The dye washed off the micro mesh onto my burl. The burl had obtained a slight unsolicited pinkish hue. I guess it was a defect in the manufacturing process of that particular color. The other 8 micro mesh pads didn't run from the alcohol. Nevertheless, the surface was dry enough for the Parflex CA to work Its Magic.
I think the micromesh is a great product for pens and small stuff. Is there a competing product out there? Will Abralon pads work as well?
 
Dennis Weiner said:
I use a lubricant as well. The type is really dependent on what finish I am going to use. I will use water without any issues if applying a water-based poly for example. ( I am prepared to deal with grain raising and sanding after the first or second coat anyway.) I will not use water if I am going to apply CA to wood or wood-acrylic turning. Additional moisture in the wood can act as an accelerator. That could be either good or bad. Don't ask how I know. Whatever you use, you should consider whether you need drying time between your lubricant and what finish you are going to use or what finish is already on the piece.

I did use alcohol, but right now with the new laws, it's been difficult to get. I read somewhere that it's ok to substitute isopropyl alcohol for denatured so I tried it.
Actually, I used medical alcohol wipes and micromesh on an acrylic-burl-poured box. It was working great until I got to the 9th mico mesh. The dye washed off the micro mesh onto my burl. The burl had obtained a slight unsolicited pinkish hue. I guess it was a defect in the manufacturing process of that particular color. The other 8 micro mesh pads didn't run from the alcohol. Nevertheless, the surface was dry enough for the Parflex CA to work Its Magic.
I think the micromesh is a great product for pens and small stuff. Is there a competing product out there? Will Abralon pads work as well?
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Thank you so much for sharing all your experience, I’m new to this but i don’t like to work with CA glue, maybe I’ll try some but don’t like when something is to toxic I think for gluing it’s ok for me.
I just bought a friction polish pens plus of DR woodshop and also I have a carnauba wax bar.
I’d like to finish my projects with these products after sanding and I don’t know if mineral oil would be ok?
and I just bought some abralon sanding sheets from Mirka 220, 400 and 600 and some micro mesh pads from 1500 to 4000 now I’m waiting them to arrive and try them out.
 
Richard Coers said:
I see no reason to sand wood any finer than a 320 sanding pad. I can't see any scratches at that grit and it just seems like a waste of time to go finer. You have to be careful with those super fine grits with those tiny pads. If I didn't convince you, because you can burn through the abrasive and into the foam if you put any pressure on them at all.
Click to expand...
Much depends on what sort of finish you want or are aiming at. So for me if its going to the gallery I make every effort to produce a museum finish and its a case of whatever it takes . Then its not only the grit but the method of how you use or do the sanding. Add to that the species of wood you're working with and to a lesser extent the actual finish as well. Then there is the lighting and on particular pieces I move the light around and that often throws up additional issues to deal with.
 
Dennis Weiner said:
Sorry, typo. Actually it’s Parfix 3408 by Parson Adhesives . Available at the woodturning store, Kapps creations or Mark Sillay.
I bought a kit from Kapps. There are a lot of you tube instructional videos available to view it’s application. Here is one of them.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AzjdN7eaJk
Here is another:
View: https://youtu.be/O8oSohXAD_Y
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Hello, thank you so much you’re so kind, didn’t know I just bought the Parfix, 3420, CA Glue at woodturning store, next time I’ll buy the one you mentioned.
greetings
 
hughie said:
Much depends on what sort of finish you want or are aiming at. So for me if its going to the gallery I make every effort to produce a museum finish and its a case of whatever it takes . Then its not only the grit but the method of how you use or do the sanding. Add to that the species of wood you're working with and to a lesser extent the actual finish as well. Then there is the lighting and on particular pieces I move the light around and that often throws up additional issues to deal with.
Click to expand...
Hello thank you so much, I really understand every word you mentioned, when I work my characters with different kinds of wood I have to deal with many issues and light don’t forgive and shows the beauty as well as any minimun scratch.
 
Michael Perez said:
Hello thank you so much, I really understand every word you mentioned, when I work my characters with different kinds of wood I have to deal with many issues and light don’t forgive and shows the beauty as well as any minimun scratch.
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Michael you are very fortunate to live in area that has some amazing trees. great for turning. I look forward to seeing what you produce.
 
hughie said:
Michael you are very fortunate to live in area that has some amazing trees. great for turning. I look forward to seeing what you produce.
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Hello, thank you so much, we have Purple Heart, bloodwood, huayruro, etc. Most exotics that we find in lumbers are not expensive however others go for exporting and flooring. Regularly carpenters work more with domestic wood.
My wife and I work carving characters mixing different kinds of wood and we like to leave the natural color of the wood, finishing them with wax or oil.
Woodturning is our new project for developing products that don’t take too much time as our characters (around 4 weeks)
greetings
 
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