Has anyone worked with oxides for crack filling in bowls or just wood in general, like copper oxide or cobalt? Trying to find out what to use and how to do it. Someone suggested using two part clear liquid resin?
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Metal Oxides and wood
- Thread starter Thomas Schlenker
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Medium CA probably would also work well.
I have not used metal oxides, but I have used various other stuff like powders, metal filings, coffee grounds, and sanding dust.
I have not used metal oxides, but I have used various other stuff like powders, metal filings, coffee grounds, and sanding dust.
This guys has a dvd and a small store on his website selling metal powders. You can fill in gaps and such with it and seal it with thin ca glue. I just got some powder from craft supply and started playing around with it.
http://www.sokolowskistudios.com/NewFiles/misupply.htm
Similar to Bill, but I use two-part epoxy (twin-tube repair material from auto parts stores). Some key cutting waste here: http://www.aawforum.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5998
and here: http://www.aawforum.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5998
Joe
and here: http://www.aawforum.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5998
Joe
Same here. I use the two-part 5-minute epoxy.
Remember to keep the crack pointed up, so that the epoxy doesn't flow out. This only takes a couple minutes. The repair does require 24hrs to fully cure......so, have patience!
The coverage area of the epoxy can be limited by using tape. The tape needs to be removed prior to the epoxy hardening.......or, it's a bear to get off by then! Remove the tape as soon as the epoxy begins to set up.
You can turn the epoxy repair with delicately used turning tools, both scrapers and gouges.......BUT, this is entirely dependent on how solid the base wood is. A simple crack in otherwise solid wood works pretty well. Epoxy used on voids and cracks where there is rot, or punky wood can still be done, but it's best to only use sanding methods to prepare the surface for final finishing.
ooc
Last edited:
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
While CA can be had in lower CPS (thinner) it won't last. It isn't archival and tends to crack over time. Epoxy seems to be a better long term solution but I haven't seen anything about it's archival qualities.
His powder prices are way higher than Smooth-on. No idea how the powders may differ, but wildly different prices.
http://www.smooth-on.com/-Urethane-Plastic-/c0_5_1119_1211/index.html?catdepth=1
Oh cool, thanks for the link.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
Since smooth-on caters to casters, it is likely they're powder is graded. In this case, don't know if it would matter.
Alumilite also has ground metals as probably polytek (smooth-ons main competitor). But might want to look at Arizona Silhouette, they cater more towards woodturners and there are others as well, nut they escape me right now.