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Mdf?

M

mdwine

Joined
May 29, 2006
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Website
www.thewritewoodshop.com
I purchased some inch thick MDF to use as a jig base, and wondered if it would make a reasonable jam chuck?

I was thinking about using it to hold a bowl to the tail stock for finishing a bottom. I suppose I may have answered my own question, as I wonder how well a screw would hold it to the faceplate.

Just a newbie 😕 question.

Thanks,

Michael
 
As long as you use the right screws (get the biggest that you can fit through the holes in your face plate) for MDF and use all the screwholes in the face plate you shouldn't have a problem I use MDF from time to time in this way and have never had a problem if you are worried don't start the lathe to fast (but then you shouldn't be doing that anyway!)

Hope this helps

Richard
 
4mikee said:
What type glue do you use in this process. I've never tried this.
Click to expand...
Mike,

The biggest problem with gluing MDF (or gluing to MDF) is it drinks glue like a sponge. That being the case there are a couple of ways to do it effectively.

For wood glues like Titebond you apply a coating to the MDF, let it soak in for about one hour, then apply a second coat, position the pieces together and clamp overnight.

Another effective method is to use contact cement, applying as necessary the "soak-in" coat, then the bonding coat. Clamp as above.

In all cases make sure you roll or brush out the glue to completely cover the contact area.

Another thought is to attach a Nova Faceplate Ring to the MDF jam chuck with countersunk screws and washers. Screw it together with the screw head and washer countersunk on the face of the jam chuck and the nut on the faceplate ring. I will say I just thought of this having taken up Craft Supplies' Nova Chuck sale.
 
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Thanks for the replys!!

I might give the MDF a try, but I'm actually leaning more toward regular solid hardwood. The MDF makes me a tad uncomfortable. I made a jig our of the MDF today, and something about it spoke to me... I think it said "No!"...

I did start a new ambrsia maple bowl today, and boy did I have fun. I had a few catches, but managed to get the foot and tenon ready, and got the general shape I'm looking for. Some time in the next week or so, I hope to get another session and turn it around and work the inside.

If it makes it through, I'll post a picture!
 
I have a couple of face plates that I attached MDF to using counter sunk washer backed nuts on the face side of the work after running machine screws just large enough to fit the holes on the commercial face plate. Then I cut my surfaces for the "compression" chuck (jam chuck) face upon which I can mount a bowl, etc. No glue, no other material involved.
 
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I use MDF a lot for Jam chucks and Donut Chucks
For smaller diameter MDF chucks I screw a hardwood tenon to it useing screws going both ways. I larent to do that after the screws going though the hardwood tenon pulled out of the MDF during a demo
For larger diameter MDF chucks I bolt a metal faceplate to the MDF, I have a mark on the faceplate which I transfer to the MDF so that the faceplate allways goes back on useing the same holes. Keeps things running ture.
Use bolts that are a snug fit though the holes so that theres no slop
Nigel
 
Mdf

My experience with MDF is that the 3/4" material works wonderful as a faceplate itself. Rounded with the bandsaw, I glue the MDF piece to a metal faceplate with hot-melt. Then using the 2-1/8" Forstner, I turn a chuck hole 3/32" deep in the MDF. I pry the MDF from the metal faceplate and now I have an MDF faceplate. Instead of screws, I again use the hot-melt to center and glue the workpiece (lightly) onto the MDF. When done the hot-melt comes right off the MDF (as it releases its hold) and you can scrape the MDF glue off the workpiece. If necessary, if the glue is too heavy, you can microwave the workpiece 15 seconds and the glue will come off very easily, and cleans up with paint-thinner. It works for me. I have several MDF faceplates in various sizes and never use metal faceplates or scrap stock. Vaughn Richmond from Australia demonstrated this technique at the Provo Wooturning Symposium in 2007--but he puts it on with a trowel and had to turn the attached piece off. I put it on lightly and can easily pry it loose with a putty knife.
 
Carpet Padding on MDF Face Plate

I have various diameter pieces of MDF with tenons glued on the back for the chuck to hold and carpet padding glued to the face. These work well for any size bowl but I use most for large bowls that cole jaws cannot hold for bottom finishing. The carpet pad acts as a friction hold and protects bowls rims. Advantages over the cole jaws are: the bowl does not get marked-up from the rubber holding buttons or metal faceplate and; the bowl sits naturally against the faceplate without having its' rim squeezed, minimizing distortion. Minimal pressure from the tail stock is needed to securely hold the bowl in place for bottom finishing. This faceplate is simple to make and works very well. Hope this helps.....JC
 
Reading the thread, I think I am in a much better place in my use of MDF.

It just took some folks to relay their experience and thoughts to give me the information I was really needing (versus just "looking for").

Thanks to everyone for their comments. You have elevated my "common sense" a notch or so!!

Now I just want to go home and finish that ambrosia bowl I started! (I need to make my chuck to finish the bottom!)

Thanks everyone!

The forum ROCKS !
 
I use mdf when I make jamb chucks. I don't use them much since I got my vacuum chuck though. I don't see what people need glue for, unless your talking a different type of Jamb chuck than me. Could you explain?
 
MDF faceplates

Micheal,
I use MDF as bases for my vacuum chucks regularly. I use a diluted glue(Titebond II) to seal the edge of the MDF disk before shellacking. As stated earlier, use as many and as large a screws as your faceplate will handle. I drilled my screw holes oversize and glued in a maple dowel for the screws to sink into but I think that was overkill.
Best of luck.
Jerry
 
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