McNaughton Centre-Saver

[Dreher]

I have a new McNaughton Centre-Saver. I have put it together following the instructions and it seems to be OK and function fine. One thing puzzzles me in the written instructions though. In step three of the assembling the tool post section it says:

"3. The bottom of the gate now rests on the support arm. The small brass stop pin must clear the arm with the elevated part of the gate always facing forward. Now, use the wrench to turn the gate grub screw in so that its head enters the groove in the column. Be sure to leave sufficient clearance for the column to be secured, but will turn freely."

What is the small brass stop pin? I can find nothing brass on the tool post assembly or anywhere in the box. I have turned the set screw so that it holds the tool post assembly together, yet allows the gate to rotate. Is the gate supposed to rotate during use?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Randy Rice]

Yes, the gate rotates during use.

I am not clear on the instructions you quoted. Don't think that I paid much attention to the line about the brass pin. The Kelton site has a good photo of how it should work in the review by Steve Russell -- http://www.kelton.co.nz/review2.html

I also suggest that you get the coring video by Mike Mahoney. It will save you a lot of grief.

 

[Dreher]

Thanks for your response Randy. I thought that maybe there was a brass pin that would go between the setscrew and the groove in the post so that the setscrew does not gall the post. Thanks again.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I thought that maybe there was a brass pin that would go between the setscrew and the groove in the post so that the setscrew does not gall the post.

I suspect that you may be correct. If the set screw seems to be setting rather deep, that would be another bit of evidence. Most hardware stores and hobby shops sell round brass stock. It certainly would not hurt to cut a brass plug to provide a better rubbing surface. I can assure you that if the threads of the set screw were allowed to rub, it would not be long before the set screw would be permanently stuck due to deformed threads.

Bill

 

[Bill Grumbine]

What is the small brass stop pin? I can find nothing brass on the tool post assembly or anywhere in the box. I have turned the set screw so that it holds the tool post assembly together, yet allows the gate to rotate. Is the gate supposed to rotate during use?

Thanks for your help.

I use my KM tool on a regular basis, and I don't even know if it has or ever had a brass stop pin. Of course, all my parts are loose and it works just fine. If you go to www.enter.net/~ultradad/bowlcoring.html you can see an article I wrote on using it. Position of all the parts is important - mine just aren't screwed together.

Bill

 

[dkulze]

Got the Mahoney Video.

Have found it surprisingly unhelpful.

It covers most of the big stuff but not much on the details and nuances.

Still waiting for yours, Bill. Get to work!

Dietrich

 

[penmaker]

I did find the Mahoney video useful. There are a number of tips Mike mentions that make the tool easier and safer to use. When I used my bowl saver for the first few time I reviewed the video and also was able to view a tape of a demo I attended. His demo pretty much covered what he does in his bowl saver video. I do find that each time I use the tool I learn a little bit more. My most difficult task is to make a 18" deep bowl.

 

[pfduffy]

McNaughton hollowing

As a new hollower, I find that the process of coring takes some considerable experience and adjustment to the use of the tools. Just in the last 3 hollowings have I reached some degree of comfort in using the McNaughton system. Some points that I find key are; clearing the bed of the tailstock - -entirely. (I cannot get the handle properly aligned with the tailstock all the way back with my 2035.) Starting the coring point at the center- -lots of people tell you that one. Lubrication of all the moving parts, including the tool shaft - - before you start and occasionally as you go along. ( I keep the WD-40 can handy.) and last and most importantly, stopping the lathe and adjusting the banjo when/if you run into a binding of the tool in the wood. Since the system tools are not a continuous curve then the binding is going to happen as you get inside the bowl blank. Keeping that extra force from happening and ruining the largest bowl edge is mighty important. Adjusting the banjo with the lathe at the stop is a good practice to avoid the binding forces. IMHO. Phil

 

[Ron Warman]

McNaughton Centre saver

At last. A friend called and his neighbor cut down a maple tree and wanted to get rid of the big pieces. I got what I wanted, made blanks and sealed it yesterday. Today I cored out two of the blanks and I got five useful rough bowls from each one. I am still not sure what I did right this time but can't wait to try again tomorrow.
I think the wood is a little too big for the standard set of knives because I can't go into the cut any more on the big one, the handle hits the bar on the rest.
I have been lining up the grain and hitting the wood with the handle to break it loose. If I ever sell any of these bowls I need the large knives I think. Mahoney says get good with the smaller set before getting the big one and I ain't good yet. But I done good today.

Ron